Must have safety accessories for older TS

[glenn bradley]

A good alignment

22124 Alingment 009.jpg

Splitter
ZCI

ZCI-gap-002.jpg

Grr-Ripper

MJ Splitter and Grr-Ripper 002.jpg

Sled(s)
Outfeed support

[Ryan Lloyd]

Hello Joe,

I have the same saw, and share your concerns about safety.

Before doing anything else, I recommend going through the owners manual (there are digital copies available online). In addition to the safety information, it is important to ensure your saw is set up correctly. Among other things: it is essential to ensure the table is properly aligned with the bade, and also that the fence is aligned with the table and locks down securely. I deliberately angle my fence very slightly away from the blade, to reduce the possibility of binding against the back of the blade, but not everyone agrees with this approach.

One challenge you face with the Ridgid TS3660 is that the stock splitter is not full dimension and so it may not be worth much for prevent kickback (the guard includes pawls for that, which are okay at best). Installing an after-market splitter, either shop-made or the MicroJig, prevents the installation of the Ridgid blade guard. As a result: you are faced with keeping the original blade guard installed and forgoing an adequate splitter, or omitting or replacing that guard so that a proper splitter can be fitted.

As for guards, the Shark Guard is a good choice provided that you only plan to make through cuts (a considerable limitation). To accommodate partial depth cuts or dado cuts, you need to choose an over-arm blade guard. I would select a floor standing over-arm guard rather than one that clamps to the table, because the forces applied when clamping these long appendages to corner of the table can flex on all but the sturdiest tops.

I have a pair of GRR-Ripper push blocks that I like for some operations, but generally I prefer to use push blocks that I make myself from scraps of 2x10 lumber. With the blocks I make myself, I run them straight through the blade when ripping small pieces, and replace as needed. I keep a variety at hand, with different sizes and hooks.

I have the JessEm TS Stock Guides installed on my saw (a tight fit on the Ridgid fence), and I feel that this contraption does improve the quality and safety of my ripping. Not all cutting operations are compatible with these guides, however. They can be tricky or impossible to use when ripping small pieces.

Feather boards may also be useful, in some cases. Please note that placing a feather board behind the blade will pinch any off-cut against the back of the blade, which is a sure way to cause kickback. I like the MagSwitch feather boards, but there are many quality options available.

As Rick mentions, a crosscut sled is invaluable for cross cutting and/or working with small pieces of wood. There are many good tutorials for building a crosscut sled, but I am partial to William Ng’s method (see youtube).

The downside of safety accessories is that these devices can contribute to increased complacency. There is absolutely no substitution for working carefully. If you are less than confident about how to handle yourself around the saw, education is strongly recommended. Be selective about who you learn from, however. I’ve known several experienced woodworkers, both amateur and professional, who do not use so much as a splitter or riving on their saws, let alone a blade guard.

Best of luck.

Regards,
Ryan

[Joe Frank]

Thanks for the outpouring of info guys. Spent a good amount of time last night and today refreshing and learning some new things about what TS can do. Always liked Stumpy Nubs and how informative he is. Ibuilditscrapbin is another youtuber I like.

I've always liked push blocks and think I'll make my own and get a couple of bigger L Shaped push sticks. Also looking at making a small sled once I get squared away.

Ryan thanks for the info. I've been thumbing through my manual and I'm in the middle of assembling my table and the guard support (part i55) didn't come with my table. Sharkguard said he's fabricated that piece along with the other guard attachment so I may be a bit limited here unless I go standalone (still need to research a bit more).

How did your saw do cutting 8/4 hardwoods like maple and walnut? What blade did you find worked best with our motor? I've been looking at a Freud 30t Glue Line Rip and a Freud 24t (LU87R010).


I'm definitely going to be getting back into things a bit slow and steady. I'm in no rush to crank anything out just trying to get some piece of mind.

Thanks again everyone for the insight.

[Rick Potter]

When making those 'L' shaped push sticks, be aware of the grain if you use solid wood. You don't want to have the handle connected to the bottom with just a bit of horizontal grain. Snap!

I make mine from plywood. Much less chance of it breaking.

[Ryan Lloyd]

How did your saw do cutting 8/4 hardwoods like maple and walnut? What blade did you find worked best with our motor? I've been looking at a Freud 30t Glue Line Rip and a Freud 24t (LU87R010).

Hello Joe,

I use the 1/8" version of the Freud 24T (LM72R010) as my primary ripping blade on the TS3660, and I have been satisfied with it. So long as the blade is clean and my pace is even, I can usually rip 8/4 sugar/rock maple without burning or excessive bogging.

When I do notice the saw starting to struggle, I simply make my cut in two passes rather than one. I have occasionally had issues with deflection when using thin kerfed blades (the saw plate is also thinner), and given the above I chose the heavier option. I also lack the ambition to make and manage any more zero-clearance throat plates than I have to, so I have standardized on 1/8” blades in my shop.

I do not have experience with the Freud Glue Line blade you mentioned. As a general comment, I recommend dedicated ripping and crosscutting blades rather than a combination offering. Eventually you will want multiples of each style so you can keep working when one is out of rotation for cleaning or sharpening.

Regards,
Ryan

*edited for formatting

[Joe Frank]

When making those 'L' shaped push sticks, be aware of the grain if you use solid wood. You don't want to have the handle connected to the bottom with just a bit of horizontal grain. Snap!

I make mine from plywood. Much less chance of it breaking.

Thanks for the tip!

Hello Joe,

I use the 1/8" version of the Freud 24T as my primary ripping blade on the TS3660, and I have been satisfied with it. So long as the blade is clean and my pace is even, I can usually rip 8/4 sugar/rock maple without burning or excessive bogging.

When I do notice the saw starting to struggle, I simply make my cut in two passes rather than one. I have occasionally had issues with deflection when using thin kerfed blades (the saw plate is also thinner), and given the above I chose the heavier option. I also lack the ambition to make and manage any more zero-clearance throat plates than I have to, so I have standardized on 1/8” blades in my shop.

I do not have experience with the Freud Glue Line blade you mentioned. As a general comment, I recommend dedicated ripping and crosscutting blades rather than a combination offering. Eventually you will want multiples of each style so you can keep working when one is out of rotation for cleaning or sharpening.

Regards,
Ryan

*edited for formatting

Thanks for the recommendation I'll check out that blade. I do like using thicker blades for bigger stock, and I've been eyeing a used jointer that's cheap locally. I kind of figured this 8/4 I need to cut up may be seeing two cuts.

Just got done sanding a bunch of rust off the table and she's cleaning up good. Still need to get the dremel and wire wheel out for the miter slots . Fingers crossed they clean up well. Small price to pay I suppose for the good deal I got on her.