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Thread: First attempt at large glue up and I'm scared to death of it.

  1. #1

    First attempt at large glue up and I'm scared to death of it.

    This isn't glued... yet. I'm going to do it a little at a time. I'm afraid of using too much or not enough glue. I'm afraid to run out of working time. It took a little bit just to get it to this point. Whose idea was this anyway?

    20190517_101653.jpg

  2. #2
    Hide glue is your friend (I use Titebond).

  3. #3
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    If you are gluing up that panel, I would recommend you do it it two stages. Remove those clamps and pull off just one side. Apply the glue and put that one piece back in place. Secure the whole assembly with clamps insuring everything is square and aligned. When that glue is set up, do the same thing with the remaining side.

  4. #4
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    Do it in two stages, use glue that gives you lots of time.
    Here is a glue-up on a 200lb door I did alone, in two stages, using west system epoxy.

    e88.jpge91.jpgn1.jpg

  5. #5
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    I used epoxy on my one huge glue up for the open time.

  6. #6
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    That doesn’t look like a large glue at all have you thought about gluing the center section first.
    Make some lite pencil marks across the pieces of alignment before you unclamp this dry glue up.
    Elmers white glue would be my choice definitely not epoxy or titebond’s unreliable hide glue. Just don’t smear around and squeeze out. Pop off any beads of glue when it turns rubbery.
    Good Luck
    Aj

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew Hughes View Post
    ... definitely not epoxy or titebond’s unreliable hide glue....
    Never had a problem with Titebond Hide Glue: what makes it unreliable (assuming you buy stock that is not past the expiration date)?
    Last edited by Jim Becker; 05-17-2019 at 4:10 PM. Reason: fixed quote tagging

  8. #8
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    I tested some years ago the bottle was bought at Rockler. The test was simply gluing to pieces of wood long grain.There’s was no bond of the wood fibers it sat clamped over night. The wood was prepared by me fresh surfaces
    I also never have to think about dates on my Yellow or white glues.
    So thumbs down for titebond hide glue for me. Not worth the hassle if I have to keep track of It expiring.
    Good luck
    Aj

  9. #9
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    Andrew, epoxy (and particular west system) is among the best glues by any test I've seen (both in terms of strength, durability, and open time; although messy to work with).
    Yellow/white glues do have expire dates too (typically 1-2 years).

  10. #10
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    I agree epoxy is great. I just don’t see the need unless the jointery is loose and would need gap filling. Or the glue up is complicated.
    The testing I’ve done on plain old Elmer white glue has me convinced it’s a good choice.Plus a gallon is not very much money.
    I encourage everyone to do their own testing and find the glue they feel confident with.
    Good Luck
    Aj

  11. #11
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    Michael - You have it in the "dry glue" or "test glue" stage now. If there were no issues getting it to the point it is now, then you are good to go. Have everything laid out like it is in the photo, open the clamps enough to get it apart and start applying glue. Pay attention to getting a light coat of glue on the tenons (don't gob in a bunch where the tenon shoulders meet the mortised side) and add in some to the mortises. I would start with the center stile and work my way to the outer sides. I have used Titebond I or liquid hide glue both for something similar to your frame and panel gizmo and had no issues with lack of open time for either. I glue up in 100 deg temps at time and have learned to work quickly. I do tend to use liquid hide glue on M&T work to prevent hydraulic lock up issues occurring during final pullup with the clamps. This is an area that I do use small brushes for the glue as opposed to fingers. Any of the glues mentioned above will work, your call, but for me, epoxy would be overkill. Have a square or corner measuring sticks ready to hand to check for a square glue up, rags to wipe mess up and wait for any squeezeout to get rubbery before lifting it off with something thin, sharp edged and flexible before it dries hard. I did not notice if you used pads on the clmap faces in the photo above.
    David

  12. #12
    20190517_155228.jpg

    Here is one side in all its glory. I only had a problem with squeeze out near the bottom but between the straw trick and light lifting at up with a flat carving chisel I managed to remove it.

    I did glue up the middle first. However, I forgot to put glue where the panels connected to the center stile. A bead of CA on the inside fixed the slight rattle.

    This was nerve racking to say the least because I'm using cherry and its not cheap. I thought about making it pine first and a total test run but didnt think I would make another go at it.

    I really feel using a Kreg jig on the inside where no one would see would have been better. I dont know. And of course the bar clamps left black marks on the wood.

    Ps.... I'm following a set of plans from so woodsmith (I think) magazine.

  13. #13
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    Looks good Michael and you don't need no stinkin Kreg jig
    David

  14. #14
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    For complicated glue ups I always use West System Epoxy like some of the other folks. If you want longer open times, use their slow hardener, #206. Here's their URL for selecting hardeners:
    https://www.westsystem.com/hardener-selection-guide/

    The other thing about epoxy is that it won't swell your mortise and tenons making it even harder to close the joints. Yes, maybe my joints are too tight, but I can't seem to make them perfect for glue up every time.

    Be careful about mixing up too much at one time. It can heat up and you will have a different problem. I use their mini pumps, and mix up 2 or 3 pumps at a time. 3 pumps worth will go a long ways.

    I would never consider using a yellow or white glue for your kind of glue up. Epoxy is much more expensive, but how much time did it take you to build that door?

    By the way, I use all kind of glues including epoxy, white, yellow, and CA. It depends on what I'm doing and how stressed out I want to be in retirement!

    Dennis

  15. #15
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    Oh here's the door the I used West System Epoxy for the glue up. Even though I practiced the glue up, it took me over 30 minutes to close all joints, and make sure the door was square. The Redwood panels are glued in because they are thick veneers glued on to a MDO core. Also the door is heavy being 84" x 38" x 2".

    P1010927.jpgP1010985.jpg

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