First attempt at large glue up and I'm scared to death of it.

[roger wiegand]

I don't understand how the "glue the center section first" suggestions are going to work. How do you keep things aligned and square while gluing an H shaped object (if I am correct about what's being proposed?) Seems like the side rails are what keeps everything square. There are only the six joints to apply glue to, you just need to male sure you don't get any into the grooves for the panels so they can float free in the frame.

Just practice your glue up dry a couple of times, paying attention to where you put down the clamping blocks so you actually have them in place when you need them. I think you'll find it not so hard in practice. Just work out a sequence that works for you.

[Alan Schwabacher]

The way to do a partial glueup and keep everything square is to assemble the whole thing, but to put glue in only some of the joints. That allows you to keep and check square. Make sure the unglued joints can be disassembled while the glued ones remain closed, of course. With more practice, this job can be done in one shot.

You mentioned that you glued in the sides of the panels too. I hope that means they are plywood or some other dimensionally stable sheet good. Wood panels are typically left unglued because that allows expansion and contraction in width within a frame that does not change in size. Rattling is avoided in several ways: rubber balls in the groove, glue or brad in center of top and bottom of panel, or just a tight fit in the groove. Depending on size and other factors, if you glue the edges of a solid wood panel int a frame, expansion and contraction can sometimes cause damage eventually.

[Anuj Prateek]

I would suggest using epoxy. I prefer epoxy if I am scared that I would not be able to finish glue up in time.

I use System 3 T88 epoxy and it gives ~40 minutes of work time in Seattle weather. If things go bad, you can take the joint apart and fix it even after 1-2 hours of glue up.

Downside:

- I find it messy compared to Titebond. Fingers stay sticky even after washing.
- Takes longer (~24 hours) to dry.
- Pricy

[Alan Lightstone]

I use West System epoxy also for that type of glue-up. Definitely use the slow hardener, but be prepared for it to take 24 hours to really cure. But strong as an ox at that point.

[Curt Harms]

I agree epoxy is great. I just don’t see the need unless the jointery is loose and would need gap filling. Or the glue up is complicated.
The testing I’ve done on plain old Elmer white glue has me convinced it’s a good choice.Plus a gallon is not very much money.
I encourage everyone to do their own testing and find the glue they feel confident with.
Good Luck

That could apply to hide glue too. The stuff does age and it depends on how it's stored. I read once - don't know how true it is - squeeze a little hide glue onto a finger and squeeze then separate your fingers. If it forms a string it should be good, at least that's what I remember. It doesn't seem like a bad idea to glue up some scrap and test to failure if there's a question a glue's condition.

[Andrew Hughes]

If I have to use epoxy it’s a very difficult glue up. I have a small digital scale to measure up.
Always keep the leftover to see if it hardens correctly.
Its good for practice to mock up new designs and test test test. Before we cut expense wood.
Most of the time I use Elmer’s carpenters white glue for mock ups.
I find it’s very reliable.

Good Luck everyone