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Thread: Table saw lubricant

  1. #16
    I pulled out the manual for my Grizzly cabinet saw and it says to lubricate the trunnions with “6 or 7 drops of light machine oil” and the worm gears with automotive wheel bearing grease every 12 months.

    It also says to remove the top to reach the appropriate areas. Not fun...

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Central North Carolina
    Posts
    1,830
    I use Johnson's Paste Wax, applied to the gears and trunnion ways with an old tooth brush. It develops a hard crust that does not attract saw dust like regular greases do. I use a light machine lubricant on shaft bearing surfaces, etc. I've been doing this for over 40 years with no saw problems resulting from using it. Johnson's Paste Wax is also used on my table tops, fence surface, miter slots, etc. but there I let it dry to a haze and then wipe the excess off. It keeps the wood sliding easily and stops rusting, but my shop is kept at 40 - 78 deg F and 50-60% RH, so rusting isn't ever a problem.

    Charley

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Perth, Australia
    Posts
    9,491
    I use a Teflon (PTFE) spray for wood and steel vise screws. This works very well. I was advised by a pro that his shop has used it for their tablesaw for many years with much success.

    The advantage of this is that it dries quickly, and does not attract dust.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  4. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by Charles Lent View Post
    I use Johnson's Paste Wax, applied to the gears and trunnion ways with an old tooth brush. It develops a hard crust that does not attract saw dust like regular greases do. I use a light machine lubricant on shaft bearing surfaces, etc. I've been doing this for over 40 years with no saw problems resulting from using it. Johnson's Paste Wax is also used on my table tops, fence surface, miter slots, etc. but there I let it dry to a haze and then wipe the excess off. It keeps the wood sliding easily and stops rusting, but my shop is kept at 40 - 78 deg F and 50-60% RH, so rusting isn't ever a problem.

    Charley
    I’ve used pure carnuba wax on top to reduce sliding friction but never thought to use it to lube gears, etc. I wouldn’t think it would last long between 2 moving metal gears. How often do you reapply it?

  5. #20
    Quote Originally Posted by Derek Cohen View Post
    I use a Teflon (PTFE) spray for wood and steel vise screws. This works very well. I was advised by a pro that his shop has used it for their tablesaw for many years with much success.

    The advantage of this is that it dries quickly, and does not attract dust.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    I’ve used this on my bench vise and a few other places but it felt like it made things harder to move instead of easier. Does it require several applications before it “loosens up”?

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Perth, Australia
    Posts
    9,491
    Mark, spray it, let it dry. Done. Slide the parts together a few times. Never experienced any stickiness - did you let it dry first?

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Modesto, CA, USA
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    9,969
    I wash them out with the acetone/automatic transmission fluid penetrating mix. Let dry overnight then lube with the tri-flow teflon spray. My theory is first wash out old dried grease and sawdust, then apply the new stuff.
    Bill D.

  8. #23
    Quote Originally Posted by Derek Cohen View Post
    Mark, spray it, let it dry. Done. Slide the parts together a few times. Never experienced any stickiness - did you let it dry first?

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Thanks- I might not have let it dry completely.

  9. #24
    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Dufour View Post
    I wash them out with the acetone/automatic transmission fluid penetrating mix. Let dry overnight then lube with the tri-flow teflon spray. My theory is first wash out old dried grease and sawdust, then apply the new stuff.
    Bill D.
    Bill, I agree that the old stuff should be cleaned out first. No point applying new lube on top of old.😎

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Central North Carolina
    Posts
    1,830
    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Daily View Post
    I’ve used pure carnuba wax on top to reduce sliding friction but never thought to use it to lube gears, etc. I wouldn’t think it would last long between 2 moving metal gears. How often do you reapply it?
    Usually, I apply the Johnson's Paste Wax to my saw's trunnion ways and blade lift gearing about once per year using an old tooth brush and leaving it on thick. I lubricate the other bearing surfaces and pivot points with light machine oil, usually one containing Teflon, at the same time. I re-wax the top and fence whenever it doesn't seem to be slippery enough, or about once per month, letting it dry to a haze, and then wiping the excess off. At times when I'm using the shop heavily I may re-wax the top every week. My Scroll Saws get their tables waxed before every cutting session. The jointer gets it's bed and fence waxed every time I do the table saw top. My drill presses and band saw tables get rewaxed about 2 times per year. The planer, about every time that I use it. All get Johnson's Paste Wax or Butcher's Wax. I can go through a can about every 2-3 years.

    Be careful about using auto waxes. You want to avoid anything that contains silicone and most car waxes contain it. Anything that contains silicone is banned from my wood shop because it causes fish eyes in paint and poly finishes and it's nearly impossible to get completely off so the finish goes on properly. Car waxes are kept in my garage on the opposite side of my property from my shop, and I use them only when cleaning and waxing the cars. If you start getting fish eyes (little round spots that won't take finish) on your woodworking projects it's almost a sure sign that there is a spot of silicone there. It soaks in, so it is almost impossible to remove completely. Let it happen once, and you will never forget the problem for the rest of your woodworking lifetime.

    Charley

  11. #26
    Quote Originally Posted by Charles Lent View Post
    Usually, I apply the Johnson's Paste Wax to my saw's trunnion ways and blade lift gearing about once per year using an old tooth brush and leaving it on thick. I lubricate the other bearing surfaces and pivot points with light machine oil, usually one containing Teflon, at the same time. I re-wax the top and fence whenever it doesn't seem to be slippery enough, or about once per month, letting it dry to a haze, and then wiping the excess off. At times when I'm using the shop heavily I may re-wax the top every week. My Scroll Saws get their tables waxed before every cutting session. The jointer gets it's bed and fence waxed every time I do the table saw top. My drill presses and band saw tables get rewaxed about 2 times per year. The planer, about every time that I use it. All get Johnson's Paste Wax or Butcher's Wax. I can go through a can about every 2-3 years.

    Be careful about using auto waxes. You want to avoid anything that contains silicone and most car waxes contain it. Anything that contains silicone is banned from my wood shop because it causes fish eyes in paint and poly finishes and it's nearly impossible to get completely off so the finish goes on properly. Car waxes are kept in my garage on the opposite side of my property from my shop, and I use them only when cleaning and waxing the cars. If you start getting fish eyes (little round spots that won't take finish) on your woodworking projects it's almost a sure sign that there is a spot of silicone there. It soaks in, so it is almost impossible to remove completely. Let it happen once, and you will never forget the problem for the rest of your woodworking lifetime.

    Charley
    Thanks Charley- good stuff. Silicone is banned from my shop for the same reasons. I use Mothers California Gold carnuba wax because it is pure carnuba wax- no silicone or anything else. I find wax on the top of tool beds works best to reduce sliding friction. I’ve tried sprays like Top Cote, etc., but they don’t work nearly as well.

  12. #27
    Quote Originally Posted by Mel Fulks View Post
    I like the brush on "Never Seize" stuff. Works for months in a commercial shop with poor air suction. Messy stuff in lots
    of places, but no problem on table saws.
    Mel, I used to restore old military vehicles and we used that on nuts & bolts to prevent corrosion so they could be removed in the future without difficulty. I’ve never heard of it being used as a lubricant. You’re right about it being messy- almost impossible to remove but never dries.

  13. #28
    Thanks, Mark. A shade tree mechanic friend told me that it's used by some on engine parts in rebuilds to provide lube before oil pumps up. But I have no experience on that stuff. I never miss a chance to read a label ,but whatever I learned from that one is gone. I also use it on the lawn mower blade nut.

  14. #29
    Bottom line on this lengthy thread seems to be, pick one and it will probably be fine.

  15. #30
    Quote Originally Posted by Larry Anderson View Post
    Bottom line on this lengthy thread seems to be, pick one and it will probably be fine.
    Larry, I think you’re right.🤓

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