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Thread: Advice needed....spalted maple

  1. #1

    Advice needed....spalted maple

    Hello everyone. First post on Sawmill Creek. Great place… I need advice on how to prepare some recently acquired spalted maple. It was cut into rounds that are around 30” diameter and 2’ or so in height. Tree was dead when felled 2 years ago and remained in someone’s back yard since then. I live less than five miles from where it was cut and am located in the Upstate of SC. The spalted wood MC is above 25%.
    The tree was cut about 5 days ago. Its covered with some tarps and sitting on 4x4’s in my driveway. The plan is to cut most the rounds into quarters (because of the size, probably more than quarters) and seal the ends. They will be stored in the shop on 4x4’s. It is not climate controlled.

    If I uploaded the pictures correctly, you will notice their size. In the past I’ve used latex paint with spalted pecan, but with less than desirable results. Paraffin wax might be a good option…..however, there is a lot to seal. The budget is tight…. So, how do I economically seal the ends? Bulk paraffin wax….with mineral spirits? There is mention of people using roofing cement, oil based paint…all the way up to the costly Anchor Seal.
    Additionally, there is a possibility of using a piece or two for making some round live edge coffee tables.

    So, I am open to all suggestions. Sealing the ends… what to do...what to not do... any and all advice is needed and greatly appreciated.

    Kindest regards,

    StarkAttachment 409811IMG_20190509_111516.jpgIMG_20190509_102012318.jpgIMG_20190509_131946.jpgIMG_20190509_131520.jpgIMG_20190509_132450.jpgIMG_20190509_111627.jpg

  2. #2
    Your photos didn't show up, just a link. If you are going to seal them, use the "costly AnchorSeal". It's cost is relatively minimal considering the potential value it might add. Spalting is a step well in to the decay process, they won't dry as efficiently as freshly cut lumber, especially in quartered sections only 2' long. Some of the other things you mentioned are a real mess on the sawmill (if these would even fit on most mills), and even worse in the workshop. Some roofing products are tough on blades and will smear on table surfaces and gum up blades on planers and tools.

  3. #3
    Both turning clubs I belong to sell anchor seal at a very reasonable price. You might ask around but I too think that would be your best option.

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