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Thread: First Table Saw- Delta 36-725 vs SawStop

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Falls Church, VA
    Blog Entries
    Jacob, as a fellow weekend warrior and Sawstop owner, I would submit that you should go for the quality ESPECIALLY if you are an irregular user. It seems counter-intuitive but bear with me.

    If you had a lesser saw and used it every day all day, you would become familiar with the strengths and weaknesses. Your experience would eventually compensate for the weaknesses. But if you use that machine irregularly, you will constantly butt heads with it's quirks and failures. You will be less happy with the outcome and could wind up dropping out altogether.

    On the other hand, if you have a high quality machine, it will compensate for your weaknesses. The accuracy, reliability and predictability of the outcome will help you get better at the work instead of getting better at overcoming the machine. Your experience will be better and you will be more likely to continue.

    I vote for the Sawstop but I'm biased.

  2. #32
    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Feeley View Post
    I vote for the Sawstop but I'm biased.
    Plus, it's hard to play the piano if you're missing your fingertips. It would make for an unusual style, perhaps. Same goes for the guitar.

  3. #33
    If you are just starting out you also have to survive the early "learning curve". The first step or goal on that LC is to not bleed and retain all appendages. Things happen faster than you can register, truly! Whichever way you go, get some instruction on the do's and don'ts. The SS is head and shoulders above the competition. That said, rather than buying a new Delta I too suggest that you look for an older Unisaw or PM66. They are great saws and superior to the new ones. A little tlc and you will have a great saw.

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Kansas City
    The original post was asking about the Delta 36-725 vs a Sawstop. The Delta's a contractor saw, so why not compare it to the perfectly adequate Sawstop contractor saw? For what OP is proposing to use it for, it should be fine. Not everyone needs a Ford 350 (new or old)when a Ranger will do. I just replaced my BT3000 with the SS contractor (for less than half that $3000 ) and I can see it will do everything this hobbyist needs. And no electrical upgrade needed.

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Tyler, TX
    I went from a Craftsman contractor saw to a Sawstop ICS. It was a wonderful leap. The next tool(s) I upgraded were my 6" jointer and lunchtop planer with a Hammer A31. After working with it, I began to think the maybe the Europeans were onto something. I'm not going to do anything about my Sawstop, but if I were to do it all over again, I'd certainly pay attention to what Rod Sheridan is suggesting. I've had the opportunity to work with a slider and they are really nice. The quality of the European equipment (Austrian, in the case of Hammer) is really unbeatable. I don't regret my Sawstop one bit, but knowing what I know now I'd be sorely tempted to go European.

  6. #36
    I had 3 table saws before my SawStop PCS. The last predecessor was a Ryobi BT3100. I built a lot of furniture with my old saws during the 25 years or so I used them. Never got hurt. But I am getting ready to retire and decided to treat myself to a SawStop PCS with 36 inch fence and 1.75 hp motor. I've been surprised by the power, it seems worse than my Ryobi, but also by the accuracy. I may need to switch to thin kerf blades but I also think the saw needs a thicker splitter. One board tripped the overload was only 1 inch oak. But the kerf was closing pinching the blade. Splitter should not have allowed that.

    But basically I think the SawStop is a very nice saw. The few projects I've used it for so far have been made easier and came out better than with my previous saws.

    I am also a big believer of a track saw. I do not have the shop space to cut up sheet goods on my table saw. But I do not need to. My DeWalt track saw produces great accuracy and saves wrestling with the full sheets. If you have the space and can arrange infeed and outfeed support you can cut up sheets with the table saw and will want the 52 inch rip version. But if you are more space limited, a track saw will provide much better accuracy than a circular saw and guide. Even a Grizzly track saw. But I think the sweet spot is the DeWalt or Makita. I recommend getting a single track long enough to rip a 8 foot sheet although that drives up the price. Makita and Festool really want a lot for a long track. Track saws are inherently safer than many power tools. If your projects will involve a lot of sheet goods, I would get the track saw first. They will not do everything a table saw will and are challenging to use on small pieces but they are very handy. A DeWalt with long and short track is around $600.

  7. #37
    Quote Originally Posted by Stan Calow View Post
    The original post was asking about the Delta 36-725 vs a Sawstop. The Delta's a contractor saw, so why not compare it to the perfectly adequate Sawstop contractor saw? For what OP is proposing to use it for, it should be fine.
    Great suggestion. The Sawstop contractor saw would do everything you need for now, provide the safety benefit, and save a considerable amount of money.

  8. #38
    I like the idea of buying once, but only if you know you are committed to the hobby. I got everything super cheap at first and had no regrets even though I eventually upgraded all the machines in my shop. To me a riving knife is crucial safety equipment and the brake is a distant second to that. If you go used I'd suggest you buy a machine with a riving knife (even if you give up on old school build quality).

    Learning safe techniques is the most important thing. I did upgrade from a hybrid to the SS and am happy with it, but am still not sure that the SS was a better choice than a slider given that it is almost as expensive. The better planer, and the better bandsaw have more impact on my furniture and were bigger upgrades in terms of joy. The only reason I did give up my much cheaper hybrid saw was because my 9 year old is getting interested and I thought if I ever let her use the saw I'd want a SS or a slider like the Hammer.

    That said my neighbor had a TS accident that would not have been an issue if she'd had a SS. She is fine but she and I agree we'd rather spend 3k upfront than spend a year in rehab plus medical bills. I watched a lot of safety videos (ex on the woodworking magazine websites and the wood whisperer etc) before first firing up my original saw and that time spent learning what not to do was a great investment.

  9. I have had a Delta Unisaw for 17 years and will probably keep it until I am dead. Last year I bought the DeWalt Jobsite table saw for some jobs that require portability. So far I am impressed with it and I would recommend it for a beginner. I plan on taking it to my vacation home and using it for woodworking there. It get's good reviews as well. It would be a great saw for a beginner

  10. #40
    Quote Originally Posted by Frank Pratt View Post
    Something to consider is that if you go with a SawStop & then bail on the hobby, they tend to keep their value a lot better than the Delta would.
    This times a thousand.

  11. #41
    Quote Originally Posted by Marc Jeske View Post
    Jacob - A mid century made machine will all told last for generations, one reason is they are very readily repairable.

    Current consumer grade stuff as your Delta option is meant to be throwaway.

    Not necessarily, but WAY more than the older option.

    If you are interested in exploring this post nearest major city location.

    The Unisaw first came out in 1939...and several of the 1939 Machines are still in regular use. I have a Shaper (similar to unisaw, Delta HD) that was made in 1941 and it runs like it was brand new. Fellow woodworker from church is still using the same unisaw his dad bought new in 1951. Both of these machines run several times a week.

    Ideal would be a late sixties through early 70's machine...before the peace sign era and after the "bullet motor" era. I have a 1973 machine as a daily driver.

    Shark guard will provide a lot of safety for your fingers and give excellent dust protection.

    If you do buy an older Unisaw take the top off and make sure nothing is broken or obviously missing.

    If you are patient unisaws can be had under $500 in good running condition, if you wait good machines come up in the 3-4 hundred dollar range.

    I have seen mint condition machines sell for between 700 and 1500. A lot of the time extra blades, Incra mitre gauges, and all sorts of goodies will come with a used tool. I bought a table saw at auction and was surprised to find a whole pallet of blades, many of them brand new, came with the saw...including Dado sets and moulding heads.

  12. #42
    Quote Originally Posted by Ken Fitzgerald View Post
    For over 40 years, I repaired equipment professionally, electronic, electrical, cryogenic, hydraulic and mechanical. When I started woodworking and later built my shop, the last thing I wanted to do was rebuild used equipment for my hobby. But, that is me.

    If your budget will allow, I'd buy the Sawstop for the quality and obvious safety reasons. I agree the SS will hold it's value better in case resale becomes an issue.
    Depends...some of us enjoy that aspect of it. And nothing at all wrong with the saw stop. We have two of them at work. Fantastic saws.

  13. #43
    Quote Originally Posted by Jason Ost View Post
    I just recently updated from a Rigid table saw to a 3hp Sawstop. The Rigid has performed flawlessly and I enjoyed using it for 4-5 years. Although now I am really enjoying the power, safety, and smoothness of the Sawstop.
    Stepping up to a cabinet saw right away will give the OP much better results, and he will be more likely to stay with woodworking.

  14. #44
    Quote Originally Posted by Jacob Atwell View Post
    Iím from Tn. My lack of experience is one of the things steering me towards a sawstop. Iím not new to power tools, just to table saws. I know that I have loads to learn about safely using a table saw. I have learned experience and always having your head in the game are the most important things for safety.
    Common sense and reading up on how to use it safely will pay huge dividends.

  15. #45
    Quote Originally Posted by Greg Parrish View Post
    Diverting from the pack here but if I were to go back in time and tell my just-starting-out-self what I know now, here is the list of items I would buy and the order I would buy them in:

    1.) Jointer/Planer machine
    2.) Solid, Basic workbench with good vises
    3.) A few Basic hand tools (see Lie Nielson core tools for example list)
    4.) Festool sander with dust extractor
    5.) Tracksaw with multi function table
    6.) Good quality bandsaw

    i know here in the US we always think table saw is the first purchase and center of a shop and I did too. My first purchase was a fully restored 1972 Powermatic 66 table saw. That got me head over heals into the hobby and now I have a full shop even though the Powermatic was replaced with a Felder sliding saw.

    However, I really wish I had put the jointer/planer combo machine first on my list. With it and a general purpose handsaw you are set to build about anything. A table saw alone wonít do it unless you can buy perfectly processed wood for every project. Anyway, good luck whatever route you choose.
    I would echo especially good bench and developing good hand tool skills.

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