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Thread: Cutting Subfloor

  1. #1
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    Cutting Subfloor

    Hello, I am working on my stairway/hardwood floor project.

    I need to do something with the edge of the hardwood floor lip hanging over the first stair tread.
    The sub floor under the hard wood is tongue n groove and has glue all over it.

    I would like to cut off 3" of the front part of the sub floor and replace it with another piece of hardwood to create a nice looking end.
    How would you ( if I can ) cut the underside of the sub floor ? What kind of saw would work for this ?
    Is there a saw that would work for cutting the underside of the tongue n groove floor ?

    I hope this makes sense....Here is a photo of the hardwood floor/ sub floor. The red marked area is what I'm talking about

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/N7QzbaJbrvgzsWio8

    20190508_195113 edit.jpg



    Thanks
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Mike Burke; 05-09-2019 at 10:14 AM.

  2. #2
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    Wow, lathe & plaster...haven't seen that for a while.

    It looks like the flooring you want to save is sanded in place hardwood? Meaning there's no way to gracefully remove and reinstall?

    I have made some cuts similar to that with a slot cutting router bit but it was extremely dangerous and never racking. Thank goodness, I only had to do it that one time. Also I don't know if it would cut through, what I assume is, 3/4" flooring.

    I think it's Kett makes a toe kick saw. Essentially a small circular saw blade on and extended arbor. Probably not cheap and probably not something you'd find at the local rent yard. Possibly an oscillating multi tool? Is there any graceful way you could leave all the existing and add a nosing to the finished floor?

    Sorry, that's all I've got. Be interesting to see other solutions though!

  3. #3
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    Jan 2007
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    Tim,

    Yes the top floor is sanded and finished Douglas Fir and I want to save that. Your right....No way to remove the top and make it look good.

    I can't think of a way to add a strip of anything to the edge to cover that area.
    The top floor is worn over on the edge and kind of bull nosed...will need to save that.

    I am thinking about an oscillating saw being able to "Safely" cutting the sub floor.
    The cut edge will not be seen and will be under the riser.
    The only thing that will be seen is the front edge of a board I replace it with.

  4. #4
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    I think horror freight has a jam saw or toe kick saw. If it was me I would use something that does not match at all like walnut or brass. that way if it is not aperfect match it will not be glaring that you tried to match and failed. Is the glue old enough that steam or solvent might let it loose after the cutting.
    I would use my small tri msaw skilsaw upside down but yo ulose a lot of strength if you cut that wood away. You risk breaking off the nose of the tread depending on how far back you cut.
    Bil lD

  5. #5
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    This is a perfect job for the oscillating multi tool. This is a remodelers essential tool and for me has replaced my sawzall for nearly all of my projects. It would do this easily and safely.

    I am - by all accounts - a total tool snob, at least in regards to handheld electrics or battery operated. BUT BUT - in this case - after consulting with other members here on THE CREEK (maybe 6 or 7 years ago) I took a chance on buying one of these from the "Ocean Side" Freight Co., as it was a $ 30.00 tool rather than a $ 100.00+ tool by others or the $ 700.00 for the original FEIN. As I had never owned one before I was reluctant to invest without trying one out. Never have doubted that decision.

    The tool was less expensive than the 1st pack of blades. I have beaten one to death and am now using a second one just as hard for all kinds of remodeling and finish applications. Jobs that would otherwise have been nearly impossible or too dangerous by any other means. YUP, I like the multi-tool. I spend the money on carbide blades and good hard wood blades, otherwise I don't bother. My HF model is a terrible tool for sanding but it is a rugged and dependable tool for cutting. I also bought the battery version but I recommend you stay away from that option. Would recommend the Milwaukee if you feel flush and would put it to more than occasional use.

    Have fun.

    Sam
    Last edited by Sam Murdoch; 05-09-2019 at 10:48 AM.
    "... for when we become in heart completely poor, we at once are the treasurers & disbursers of enormous riches."
    WQJudge

  6. #6
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    So it looks like an oscillating multi tool/saw is the tool to use.
    Might be slow going but safe.

    Bill..you mentioned loosing strength if I cut to much off the sub floor. Should I just cut off 1/2 or 3/4 off the edge and glue another piece of hardwood on the edge ?

    The main part that I am trying to get rid of is the Tongue n Groove end grain.
    I could scrape and sand the the edge smooth but the Tongue n Groove would still be showing.

    Thanks fellas for the suggestions

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sam Murdoch View Post
    This is a perfect job for the oscillating multi tool. This is a remodelers essential tool and for me has replaced my sawzall for nearly all of my projects. It would do this easily and safely.

    I am - by all accounts - a total tool snob, at least in regards to handheld electrics or battery operated. BUT BUT - in this case - after consulting with other members here on THE CREEK (maybe 6 or 7 years ago) I took a chance on buying one of these from the "Ocean Side" Freight Co., as it was a $ 30.00 tool rather than a $ 100.00+ tool by others or the $ 700.00 for the original FEIN. As I had never owned one before I was reluctant to invest without trying one out. Never have doubted that decision.

    The tool was less expensive than the 1st pack of blades. I have beaten one to death and am now using a second one just as hard for all kinds of remodeling and finish applications. Jobs that would otherwise have been nearly impossible or too dangerous by any other means. YUP, I like the multi-tool. I spend the money on carbide blades and good hard wood blades, otherwise I don't bother. My HF model is a terrible tool for sanding but it is a rugged and dependable tool for cutting. I also bought the battery version but I recommend you stay away from that option. Would recommend the Milwaukee if you feel flush and would put it to more than occasional use.

    Have fun.

    Sam
    I flipped a house last year and my DeWalt cordless multitool was constantly in use. I really can't imagine doing that flip without that tool.

  8. #8
    I agree I wouldn't take that much off just an inch or so to get you an edge strip you can screw and glue to the bottom.

    If I were going to buy an oscillating tool thinking I won't use it much, I go with the Harbor Freight. The washer cracked on the one I bought after the first use.

    My electrician buddy has the cordless DW model its very nice.

    Another option might be a router w/wing cutter and bearing off the existing floor.

  9. #9
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    Maybe a trim router with a guide board. I doubt a full size router would fit.
    Bill D

  10. #10
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    Put a backer board on the bottom at the depth you want to cut. It will provide a place for the bottom of a multi tool blade to ride, like a fence. You may also want an additional stop to keep the tool itself from cutting too deep and coming thru the floor. A good blade of the correct type will make light work of that. You may have a little chisel work at the ends. You will find lots of uses for a multi tool in the future. Setting up the backing will likely take more time than the cut providing you don't hit many flooring nails.
    Jim

  11. #11
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    I like the backer board idea.

  12. #12
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    I like the fence idea. Good deal.
    My buddy has a multi tool / saw i can use.
    Tonights project. I will post with the finished edge.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Burke View Post
    I like the fence idea. Good deal.
    My buddy has a multi tool / saw i can use.
    Tonights project. I will post with the finished edge.
    Go with the carbide blades. They last a lot longer, tolerate a nail or two and some even have depth of cut marks so you can tell when you are about to cut too deep. I just used my Bosch multi tool today to do some repair on a window casement. The tool did a quick job despite two staples and a 16d finish nail.
    Lee Schierer
    USNA '71
    Go Navy!

    My advice, comments and suggestions are free, but it costs money to run the site. If you found something of value here please give a little something back by becoming a contributor! Please Contribute

  14. #14
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    We have a Winner !!

    The little Sonicrafter saw worked great.
    Put a piece up for a fence and cut 1" off the nose. Cut several samples of filler strips and the wife said Cedar was the perfect match.
    Looking good !!!
    Thanks for all the help.
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/1rU3u6Qhf3xuj8im8

    20190510_051447.jpg

  15. #15
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    Awesome. Gotta love the forum.
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


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