Grizzly band saw - wood pulling away from fence

[glenn bradley]

If you have blade drift, IME, it is either a dull blade, or a poorly adjusted saw.

This is me as well. Obviously Michael Fortune is no hack so the video supports the school that abides drift. I have been drift-free for so long I do not know that I would be willing to deal with it. I would have to stop and align the machine and live happily ever after. Some folks tolerate snipe on their planer too. Different strokes . . .

[Mike King]

The best way is the Alex Snodgrass way. I have tried to adjust for drift by cutting a sample board and aligning my fence, it works, but the Alex Snodgrass way adjusts the saw correctly. Google him, but the method is to put the gullets of the teeth on the center of the top wheel, he claims if you center the blade it can rock back and forth on the crown. With the gullets on the center the blade is stable, then spring clamp a piece of long thin wood to the blade with a relief cut for the teeth (he uses a nifty magnetic guide). This piece of long thin wood is oriented in the direction of the cut, so this is the path of the cut. Then adjust the table using the miter slot to this long thin wood. I cut logs on a 17" grizzly and re saw straight as an arrow. Try it

just realize that centering the blade works for bandsaws with crowned wheels, but most euro-style bandsaws have flat wheels and the blade should be tracked so that the teeth are just proud of the front of the tire.

Mike

[Rick Potter]

Thanks Mike,

I was wondering about that. It seemed logical, so that is what I did on my Aggie, when I put the 1" blade on it.

Even a blind squirrel gets an acorn now and then.

[Curt Harms]

Something I don't think anyone has mentioned -- is he using the blade that came with the saw? Sometimes the OEM blades are not very good and that's being charitable. I'd try a quality blade before spending too much time on alignment.