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Thread: 2729 PVC Ducting for New DC System

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
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    Milford MI
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    14

    2729 PVC Ducting for New DC System

    I've got a new Grizzly
    I've got a new Grizzly G0548ZP - 2 HP Canister Dust Collector and an XL SDD. This is my first dust collection system so I have some comments and questions. I would appreciate any suggestions. I plan on running 2729 PVC for my header and some downpipes. My workshop is approz. 20' x 15'. The DC and SDD will reside just on the other side of one of the shop walls. I will be venting internally. I will only run one tool at a time.


    1) I plan to take of the 3 ported (4") inlet adaptor on the DC and pipe the 6" fitting directly to the SDD. From the SDD I plan to run a 6" header with 6-6-5 wyes to the following...
    - a Dewalt 12" planer, a floor mount drill press, a 3HP Grizzly table saw, and a 2HP Grizzly bandsaw. This will all occur within the first 15' of the 6" header. After that I'll put a 6" swoop 90 and run the header another 6' where it will have 6-6-4 wyes to the following..
    - a router table, a chop saw, a bench sweep and a shop cleanup hose.

    2) I will have blast gates just before all flex lines that drop down. Most tools have 4" ports but some have 2" ports. Is it much better to try to run the PVC down and just use a short flex line to each unit as opposed to just dropping 4" flex hose down to each device?

    3) Are the standard 2729 PVC wyes the right thing to use? I don't intend on gluing them together but wrapping each joint with 2" alum tape.

    4) I plan on mounting the SDD on a plywood shelf next to the DC. From the bottom of the SDD I will run 6" flex to a steel garbage can. What's the best way to seal up the can?

    5) Has any one ever put a small lexan window in the garbage can to monitor dust level? Probably hard to do. I have seen post on the level sensors so I might go that way. What do most people do, lift the lid and visually check? This is a hobby shop not a business so this might be the best option.

    Thanks for your help.


  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
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    E TN, near Knoxville
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    9,110
    I used the 6" S&D PVC for most of my collector (5 hp cyclone). Works very well. I ran 6" all the way to the far end of the shop then down the walls, then 6" to dual 4" ClearVue splitters or 6" to dual 4" blast gates if appropriate. This works extremely well. I use standard PVC wye fittings as well as 22.5 and 45-deg elbows. I use short lengths of 4" flex from the blast gates to machines like the drum sander.

    DC_electrical_shop_s.jpg

    I generally held fittings and such together with three self-drilling and -tapping sheet metal screws with a bit of aluminum HVAC tape around the outside. I did glue the long pipe sections together that I ran in the trusses above the ceiling.

    I used a 30 gallon gavanized steel trash can as the collection bin. The first one I tried collapsed from the power of the cyclone. I switched to a heavier gauge older can - the mfgr cheaped out on quality and reduced the metal thickness on the newest cans. If I didn't have that I'd probably reinforce the new can.

    I used a 1" wide soft grey rubber weather strip around the inside of the lid lip as a seal, mounted so the suction pulls the lid and seal directly into the lid. A short piece of 6" flex connects the cyclone cone to a homemade PVC flange sealed to a hole in the lid with Alex Plus silicone caulk.

    I've read here and elsewhere of people putting windows in the bin to check. I have a bin-full monitor but I usually just pick up the lid occasionally to gauge how full it's getting. It's easier to empty before it's completely full. This thing is amazing at separation - talcum-fine sawdust collects in the can, almost nothing gets to the filters. I haven't had to clean out the clean-out box below the filters yet after about 5 years of use.

    JKJ


    Quote Originally Posted by Daniel Boddy View Post
    I've got a new Grizzly
    I've got a new Grizzly G0548ZP - 2 HP Canister Dust Collector and an XL SDD. This is my first dust collection system so I have some comments and questions. I would appreciate any suggestions. I plan on running 2729 PVC for my header and some downpipes. My workshop is approz. 20' x 15'. The DC and SDD will reside just on the other side of one of the shop walls. I will be venting internally. I will only run one tool at a time.


    1) I plan to take of the 3 ported (4") inlet adaptor on the DC and pipe the 6" fitting directly to the SDD. From the SDD I plan to run a 6" header with 6-6-5 wyes to the following...
    - a Dewalt 12" planer, a floor mount drill press, a 3HP Grizzly table saw, and a 2HP Grizzly bandsaw. This will all occur within the first 15' of the 6" header. After that I'll put a 6" swoop 90 and run the header another 6' where it will have 6-6-4 wyes to the following..
    - a router table, a chop saw, a bench sweep and a shop cleanup hose.

    2) I will have blast gates just before all flex lines that drop down. Most tools have 4" ports but some have 2" ports. Is it much better to try to run the PVC down and just use a short flex line to each unit as opposed to just dropping 4" flex hose down to each device?

    3) Are the standard 2729 PVC wyes the right thing to use? I don't intend on gluing them together but wrapping each joint with 2" alum tape.

    4) I plan on mounting the SDD on a plywood shelf next to the DC. From the bottom of the SDD I will run 6" flex to a steel garbage can. What's the best way to seal up the can?

    5) Has any one ever put a small lexan window in the garbage can to monitor dust level? Probably hard to do. I have seen post on the level sensors so I might go that way. What do most people do, lift the lid and visually check? This is a hobby shop not a business so this might be the best option.

    Thanks for your help.


  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    Phoenix AZ
    Posts
    499
    I recently discovered this web site by Bill Pentz. He is well known to the members who have been here for a while. I learned quite a bit and would recommend you take a look before you get started.

    http://billpentz.com/woodworking/cyc....cfm#index.cfm

  4. #4
    I use a Rubbermaid Brute trash can which I sealed by using a bicycle tire around the lip.

    Other than that you could try rubber window sealer tape.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    E TN, near Knoxville
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robert Engel View Post
    I use a Rubbermaid Brute trash can which I sealed by using a bicycle tire around the lip.

    Other than that you could try rubber window sealer tape.
    There is some practical advice about bins on the ClearVue website and forum that would apply to any DC (or at least it did back when I was installing mine).

    JKJ

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Location
    Milford MI
    Posts
    14
    Thanks everyone, some good advice. I guess the way to go is to put a blast gate at ever drop and then run 4-5" flex hose down to each device.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Okotoks AB
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    1,705
    Quote Originally Posted by Daniel Boddy View Post
    Thanks everyone, some good advice. I guess the way to go is to put a blast gate at ever drop and then run 4-5" flex hose down to each device.
    Or better yet, drop down with straight pipe & then just use flex for the last minimal length. Less flex is better. I'm not really a fan of using PVC because the elbows are so sharp. Sharp bends are very restrictive. Instead of a 90, 2 45's back to back are better, but still not near as good as a long sweep 90.

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