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Thread: 3M PPS Spray Paint System

  1. #16
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    Chris, the louvers may look great straight out of the molder, but you still should sand them before painting. Molding machines are just like planers; they burnish the wood during the cutting process and any finish applied directly won't bond nearly as well as it will to a sanded surface. Sorry to be the bearer of unwanted news. But, you know, they do make flap sanders that would make that job much easier.

    John

  2. #17
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    I just spent all day sanding the outer and inner frames.


    Guess I'll do the louvers tomorrow.......

    I've got a few days before the 3M PPS system arrives, so this will give me a bit of time to dry fit the louvers and make any finite adjustments in fit.

    Thanks for the heads up, Jim, on the oil paint taking a while too dry. I have heat in may garage, so I'll probably set that to around 75F. I'll be painting inside a home made spray booth, with extractor fan and filters in the rear, The front is wide open, but I'm hoping the overspray isn't as foggy are spraying auto clear coat, if so I'll cover the open side.



  3. #18
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    Dec 2007
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    Rochester NY
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    Nice work with the molder Chris, I have a suggestion for future molding projects:

    Rather than purchase the "complimentary" knife to make the bed, you can use bondo to create that contour. Just cover a molded part with packing tape, and press into an trough full of bondo. After it cures, remove, trim off excess, tape the surface to eliminate friction, and you're set. I used to do this a lot to create cauls for veneering compound curved surfaces. Kinda stinky, but pretty cheap & quick

  4. #19
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    That's a great idea, I've made custom fiber glass molds for motorcycle parts, don't know why I didn't think of doing this for the moulder support piece.

  5. #20
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    If you plan to spray towards the filters I think you are in for disappointment. Any overspray that reaches those filters will slag them over and your airflow will go to nothing. It would be far better to blow filtered air into your booth, spray in the other direction, and just let the overspray fall where it may on disposable drop cloths at the open end.

    If you just have to spray towards the filters for some reason, you might be able to keep the overspray off the filters by installing a curtain wall a few feet in front of them that forces the air to go down towards the floor and then another a foot or so closer to the filters that goes from the floor up at least as high as the top of the filters. That labyrinth should make the paint droplets fall out before they hit the filters. Worth a shot, but the first approach is easier and guaranteed to work.

    John

  6. #21
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    Thanks, I set my cross bar up so I can move it forward and backwards easily in the booth, so I could either move it far enough back and have the overspray hit the rear polythene above the filters of bring it forward and hang a plastic curtain behind my work piece which I think will be the better solution.

    I'll probably try the first option and see how that goes, but that is an excellent suggestion, thank you.

  7. #22
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    On a side note, I sent an info request to 3M, about the PPS Series 2.0, late Friday.

    Today, I received three phone calls and an email. I missed the first two calls, but ended up speaking with the 3M rep for about 20 minutes discussing the PPS and Series 2.0 and what would work best for me. Got all the necessary 3M part numbers.

    Great customer service.

  8. #23
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    Jul 2016
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    Got the pressure cup (PPS original) and adaptor along with a 50 pack of lids and liners.

    Started to glue up the louver frames, all frames sanded. Louver blades will get sanded after I do a final dry fit in the frames... Lots of sanding....

  9. #24
    circling back to this. Thanks to John (and others) for turning me on to this system. Used it for the first time painting some theater props with Zinsser BIN. Love the convenience, the evenness of the flow all the way to the end (I prevoiously had to contend with sputtering as the liquid level got low in the cup), and not having to strain the material. As a test I used the BIN right out of the can, and it had some visible lumps. Sprayed like a champ.

  10. #25
    Join Date
    May 2014
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    Austin, TX
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChrisA Edwards View Post
    On a side note, I sent an info request to 3M, about the PPS Series 2.0, late Friday.

    Today, I received three phone calls and an email. I missed the first two calls, but ended up speaking with the 3M rep for about 20 minutes discussing the PPS and Series 2.0 and what would work best for me. Got all the necessary 3M part numbers.

    Great customer service.
    Can you provide more details here? I have a Fuji q5 and as far as I can tell it doesn’t work with the PPS 2.0 system. Are you saying they sell an adapter for the old H/O cups that work with the other 2.0 pieces?

  11. #26
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    My understanding, PPS 2.0 does not have a pressurized cup. They will have one 4th quarter 2019.

    So a little update on where I am; I initially found it difficult to spray either the primer or finish with my existing needle, nozzle and cap. So I contacted Apollo and got the appropriate spray gun pieces.

    I found my paint booth too dark, i.e. not enough lighting, to spray a quality coat. So rather than trying to spray an entire frame and the louvers, I've modified my approach to spray a single piece in a well lit area and have built a drying storage rack for the rails, styles and louvers. photos to follow tomorrow.
    Last edited by ChrisA Edwards; 06-09-2019 at 4:33 PM.

  12. #27
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    May 2014
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    Austin, TX
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    Thanks for the update. Definitely farther away than I was hoping. Not to derail your thread any further, but if you know, are there any components shared across the 1.0 and 2.0 system? IE if I buy 1.0 now, is there anything you can reuse and just buy the upgraded pieces? Saw a video on YouTube that called out 6 differences which based on my knowledge seems to include just about every piece.

  13. #28
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    Why would you need/want to upgrade? I would just buy whatever currently available system fits your gun and start enjoying the benefits of the PPS system. I've had it on my gun for 3+ years. There's nothing that would need to be replaced, ever, short of breaking something, and the pieces are very robust. My two cents.

    John

  14. #29
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    Austin, TX
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    Quote Originally Posted by John TenEyck View Post
    Why would you need/want to upgrade? I would just buy whatever currently available system fits your gun and start enjoying the benefits of the PPS system. I've had it on my gun for 3+ years. There's nothing that would need to be replaced, ever, short of breaking something, and the pieces are very robust. My two cents.

    John
    Thanks John, you've convinced me to bite the bullet and get the benefits now instead of waiting/hoping for the newer one.

  15. #30
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    Jul 2016
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    Yes I agree, when I spoke to the PPS customer service rep, I asked if the original PPS system was to be phased out, he gave me a definite no.


    After using the original PPS system for a couple of weeks now, I can't see any significant pitfalls with the original system.

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