Deciding whether to restore my old unisaw

[Reggie Burnett]

I have an old unisaw that is still functional. I think it's from the 50s or 60s. I already replaced the fence with a Shop Fox fence and resurfaced the table. The tilt and raise/lowering adjustments are very stiff so I think the internal mechanisms need some cleanup. I told the top off and saw that the trunnion and arbor have some rust on them and the cabinet has quite a bit of rust.

I'm pretty sure the arbor bearings need replacing as well.

The motor is wired for 110 and is apparently a 11amp motor.

Wanting to get some opinions on whether to restore it and keep using it and look to get something else. I dont' really want to spend much money on a different saw so I *think* restoration is what I want to do.

Thanks!

[George Yetka]

Anything is possible but your time is worth something too
If you like the saw, aren't looking for something more powerful, and think it would be a fun project I say restore
But if you arent looking too go that far into it Watch craigslist you may find a similar saw 40 years newer for a reasonable price

[Gary Radice]

Restoring a Unisaw is not that difficult if you are at all mechanically inclined. There is lots of help and tutorials available online, both here and especially over at OWWM.org. The only tricky part for most folks is removing the trunnions: they are a tight fit in the cabinet base. When I did mine, it wouldn't come out, wouldn't come out, and then it did. Arbor bearings are not difficult to replace and you should do that if you have the saw apart anyway.

Of course, each rebuild is different. Parts stick, there may be worn parts that you don't know about until you get into it. Work methodically, take pix of assemblies before you take them apart, bag and label parts as they come off, etc.

If you like the saw now, you'll probably like it even better when it is restored, and you will certainly understand it better.

[Lisa Starr]

Restore it! I happen to like older equipment. It has already proven its durability by still being here and parts frequently aren't that difficult to source for things like bearings. Unless you're looking to move up to something in the SawStop line, and that's expensive, there isn't much reason to look for a different saw.

[Mike Henderson]

The motor is probably a 1HP and that's pretty low for modern usage. Time goes on and things improve. I'd get a saw with a true riving knife and maybe flesh sensing technology.

Mike

[Reggie Burnett]

Looks like it's a 1953. Serial number is 107-869 which I assume means 107-0869 which according to this page (http://wiki.vintagemachinery.org/Del...alNumbers.ashx) puts it in the Bellefountaine Years.

The motor is stamped 11.8/5.9 amp and that's for 110/220 I assume. After some looking it looks like 1HP. Not sure if that's too small. I'll be working in oak, cherry, cedar, black walnut, and of course pine and poplar.

[Reggie Burnett]

The motor is probably a 1HP and that's pretty low for modern usage. Time goes on and things improve. I'd get a saw with a true riving knife and maybe flesh sensing technology.

Mike

Not really wanting to invest in new tablesaw right now. I plan to rewire for 220. Will that help?

[Mike Henderson]

No, the motor will still be 1HP. The HP doesn't change when you change the voltage. To get a more powerful motor, you'll have to change the motor.

The problem with restoring old things, whether it's tools or an old car, is that when you finish what you have is an old thing (and usually a lot less money).

Mike

[Frank Pratt]

Old machinery is cool, & some, like well restored Wadkin stuff is downright beautiful. But the fact is that newer machinery is just better for the most part. Certainly from a safety perspective. Flame suit on now.

[Matt Day]

No, the motor will still be 1HP. The HP doesn't change when you change the voltage. To get a more powerful motor, you'll have to change the motor.

The problem with restoring old things, whether it's tools or an old car, is that when you finish what you have is an old thing (and usually a lot less money).

Mike

I think a lot of people on this board will take offense that old things aren’t good anymore!

This all depends on what the OP wants and can afford.

I really enjoy restoring old machines, so it’d be an easy choice for me.

You can also just do a mechanical restore without removing the trunnions. With the top removed you can get in there and clean up the worm gears and teeth, and lubricate them. Replace the arbor bearings (lots on that online), maybe new belts and check the motor bearings. I had a 1.5hp on my Uni (a ‘55 I think) for a couple years and it was just fine. I just slowed my feed rate on thicker stock.

[Reggie Burnett]

No, the motor will still be 1HP. The HP doesn't change when you change the voltage. To get a more powerful motor, you'll have to change the motor.

The problem with restoring old things, whether it's tools or an old car, is that when you finish what you have is an old thing (and usually a lot less money).

Mike

That's true but I think it's also easy to start thinking that newer is always better. If you look at what a tablesaw is you see that's really not that different now than in 1953. You need the following things:

1. A nice flat cast iron table
2. A powerful "enough" motor that runs well and smooth
3. A mechanism that allows for easy adjustment of the blade up and down and tilting

I've already added an excellent after market Shop Fox fence. Assuming you have the above items you really have the essence of a tablesaw. Not much more to them.

[Bradley Gray]

What Matt said. Fix what's needed and use it. I have 15 old machines in daily use, some of them for over 40 years. While I admire "better than new" restores it's not something I have ever done.

New bearings and some clean and lube and you can be back making sawdust.

[Reggie Burnett]

I think a lot of people on this board will take offense that old things aren’t good anymore!

This all depends on what the OP wants and can afford.

I really enjoy restoring old machines, so it’d be an easy choice for me.

You can also just do a mechanical restore without removing the trunnions. With the top removed you can get in there and clean up the worm gears and teeth, and lubricate them. Replace the arbor bearings (lots on that online), maybe new belts and check the motor bearings. I had a 1.5hp on my Uni (a ‘55 I think) for a couple years and it was just fine. I just slowed my feed rate on thicker stock.

I, of course, would love to drop $1800-$3000 on a new Grizzly or Unisaw but I have other things that are taking my money right now and until I show that I'm going to spend significant time in my shop building things I don't see the point in spending that kind of money. So it comes down to spend $600-$800 on a new "hybrid" saw or restore this one.

[Andrew Hughes]

I did a restoration on a Davis and Wells table saw. Bring back well made machines is very satisfying.
Heres a pic.

[mark kosse]

That 1HP RI bullet motor is about as good as it gets. They were designed for sharp HSS blades but if you run a thin kerf modern carbide blade on it it will cut anything you throw at it. I personally would make it mechanically excellent and clean it up to functional condition. There is usually pitch on the gears that slow movenet. If you have a really nice shop restore it to new.