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Thread: Band saw blade tracking

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
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    Cleveland, Ohio
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    Band saw blade tracking

    I put a 3/4" blade on a Laguna bandsaw (18bx), and tried to have it track with the gullets in the center of the wheel. (Some folks say that reduces drift). But I can't get the blade that far back before the rear of the blade rubs on something (not sure what). Tracking as far back as I can, the cut is too wavy for making thin veneers.

    Laguna's answer to my question was just to recommend their YouTube videos. Other ideas I tried were to increase the blade tension and to cut more slowly.

    Is the advice to center the gullets on the wheel right?
    Am I making some mistake in putting the blade on?
    Are there other ways to improve the tracking and get finer, straighter cuts?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2014
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    That sounds too far back for that wide a blade. I'd try moving the gullets slightly forward of the crown (center).

  3. #3
    I think you should determine what it is that's rubbing. Take a close look at the blade guide assembly. There should be a bolt or thumbscrew that you can loosen that allows you to move the guide assembly forward or back on a post. I have a suspicion that yours is too far forward for this particular blade. Move it back and you should be okay.

    Another simple check is as follows - take your fence and align it perfectly to the miter slot. Then make a test cut in a piece of scrap using the fence, going only to the depth of the back of the blade (3/4" if you're using that blade). Turn off the saw, walk around to the back and inspect the back of the blade in the kerf. If the blade is rubbing one side or the other, loosen the attachment bolts under the table and tap it with a mallet in the direction it takes to center the blade in the kerf. Once you have done this, tighten everything up and make another test cut. If the blade is centered, you should get straight, drift free cuts. Here is a link to a video that explains bandsaw tuning more. https://www.finewoodworking.com/2011...t-up-a-bandsaw
    9:25 in demonstrates what I have tried to explain above.

    Hope this helps,
    Edwin

  4. #4
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    Center the blade on the top wheel.

    John

  5. #5
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    Mar 2019
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    Los Angeles, California
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    Centering the blade on the gullets has no effect on rubbing. I suspect that when your assembly is tightened, the top wheel is rubbing against the cover. I'd take the wheel off and see if you can see where it is rubbing. I suspect the outside edge of the wheel is rubbing against something. The wheel may have to be shimmed out 10-20 thousands.

    I will recommend a good band saw tuning video that actually found fun, amusing and instructive to watch, Band Saw Tuning for the Anally Retentive: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9DzbJYIPPNE&t=638s

  6. #6
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    What John said. Please try this before you start adjusting everything else.

  7. #7
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    Jan 2013
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    Does your saw have flat or crowned wheels?

    Some Italian bandsaws have flat wheels and are designed to track with the teeth of the blade hanging off the edge of the wheel. Trying to make a blade (other than a very narrow one) track on the center of a flat wheel is going to be an exercise in frustration. Flat wheels work different than crowned wheels.

    Curious which type of wheel your saw has...
    Too much to do...Not enough time...life is too short!

  8. #8
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    Laguna's are Euro style bandsaws with flat wheels. You need to adjust the blade to have the teeth off of the front of the wheel -- the wheel and tire are not crowned to use the center of wheel approach.

    Once you have the blade tracking on the wheels, you need to adjust your table for the drift of the blade. Michael Fortune does not use Euro style bandsaws but only uses crowned wheels, so disregard the first 1:30 minutes of this video, but follow the rest of this:

    https://youtu.be/vNdrkmx6ehI

    Mike

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike King View Post
    Laguna's are Euro style bandsaws with flat wheels. You need to adjust the blade to have the teeth off of the front of the wheel -- the wheel and tire are not crowned to use the center of wheel approach.

    Once you have the blade tracking on the wheels, you need to adjust your table for the drift of the blade. Michael Fortune does not use Euro style bandsaws but only uses crowned wheels, so disregard the first 1:30 minutes of this video, but follow the rest of this:

    https://youtu.be/vNdrkmx6ehI

    Mike
    I didn't know that Laguna saw had flat tires. If so, your are 100% correct; the teeth of the blade need to hang off the front of the tire.

    John

  10. #10
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    So does the 18 BX have flat wheels/tires on it ?

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Kees View Post
    So does the 18 BX have flat wheels/tires on it ?
    Not exactly clear, but here's what the manual states:

    There are different opinions on the position that the blade should be on the wheels. One group of people recommends that with large blades you should track the blade so that the teeth hang just over the front edge of the rubber. The second group recommends that all blades, regardless of their size, should run in the center of the wheel. The advantage of running the large blades with the teeth not contacting the rubber of the wheel is that they cannot damage the tire. The disadvantage is that the wheel is crowned and the blade is not tensioned in the center of the band, which gives the blade a tendency to wobble or flutter. The advantage of running large blades on the center of the wheels is that they are tensioned in the center of the band and have fewer tendencies to wobble and flutter. The disadvantage is that blades with a large set on the teeth have a tendency to damage the rubber of the tire. This does not have a great effect on the performance of the bandsaw, as all blades are running on the center section of the tire, which is not affected. We recommend that you balance all blades on the center of the wheels for optimum performance and a smoother cut. 1. To track the blade, start rotating the wheels by hand in the normal direction. As you do this, watch the blade to determine where the blade wants to track. If the blade is tracking too far forward or backward, make small adjustments with the tracking adjustment knob located at the back of the bandsaw while still rotating the wheel. Once the blade is tracking in the correct position, fully tension the blade and re-track. Lock the tracking adjustment handle.

    John

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
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    I have a Flat tires on one of my bandsaws. I like to adjust the tracking so the front of the blade or teeth are 90 degrees with to the table. I don’t want to resaw up hill or down with the grain. Cut the wood fibers straight at 90.
    My Laguna blades and woodmaster all end up with the teeth hanging off the front .
    I have a 3/8 wide blade on the the saw now and the teeth set at 90 are close to the edge of the tire.
    So much voodoo with bandsaws thought I share my experience.
    Good Luck everyone.
    Aj

  13. #13
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    Aug 2012
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    Elgin, TX
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    My Minimax S45 has the teeth hanging off the front also. No big deal. It is just way it works.

  14. #14
    Keeping the teeth off the tire is not so much about damage to the tire as the tire will take the set out of your teeth...

  15. #15
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by John TenEyck View Post
    Center the blade on the top wheel.

    John
    That's what works for me.

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