Help in Getting Walnut where i want it to be

[John Vollrath]

Hey all,
I'm finishing a walnut media console (that I've been working on for way too long...). I done 3 coats of Watco Danish oil (natural color), and I like the color it's brought out in the wood, however, it feels dull and I want to end up with a satin/semi-gloss finish... while keeping the wood as natural looking as possible. What are some ways to achieve this? I watched a fellas wipe-on poly video (oil based I guess??). I watched another guy use steel wool and "finishing paste wax" (whatever that is?). Can you give me any advice on taking this from OK to great? Shellac? I'm lost

Here's a pic of the top of the cabinet: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1cWh...ew?usp=sharing

thanks,
john

[Andrew Seemann]

I've never liked Watco (or any oil for that matter) as a finish. It has no water resistance, stinks for ages, and seems like it never dries. It is however my favorite stain. I tend to put on a coat for color (if desired) and then after "drying" I put a coat of shellac sealer over it. I then either put on more shellac or poly (if water or abrasion resistance is needed).

People who actually know what they are doing with finishes will probably give better answers.

[John Goodin]

I just finished a edge grain walnut countertop and topped it with two light coats of garnet shellac. Just a touch of Transtint dark walnut dye was added to darken it a little and to my wife’s liking. It added a lot of depth but still looks like natural walnut and will be my go to finish from now on when working with the wood. Right now I am topcoating it with Waterlox original sealer to provide more protection. BTW, the garnet shellac is not my idea but the most recommended finish I found when researching finishing walnut.

[Wayne Lomman]

The best way to get the finish you want is to follow the instructions in the technical data sheet. See the link below. Especially refer to the section on 'Protecting the Wood'. Stay within the manufacturer's recommendations and you don't have to guess what to do or take a chance on something because they have already done the research and testing. Cheers

https://www.rustoleum.com.au/~/media...h_Oil_TDS.ashx

[glenn bradley]

The thing about walnut is that it lightens with age and light exposure. I have old walnut pieces that are just a light tan in color now. for pieces to retain that dark, rich, 'just oiled' look I add a bit of colorant. the color is the same as the 'just oiled' color and so is subtle but, doesn't fade over time.

If you like wipe on oil finishes (this is my primary finish) and want better protection you can mix yourself a blend. I use mineral spirits, a modified phenolic resin varnish like Cabot's (in the sheen of your choice) and BLO in equal amounts. Your Watco has already penetrated into the wood so I would add a dash of Japan Drier to the blend to speed curing time of a varnish on top of a sealer.

GnG Low CoD (290).jpg

[John TenEyck]

I too would move on to a wipe on varnish. My favorite is Arm-R-Seal, but the home made recipe Glenn described works fine, too.

John

[Prashun Patel]

Adding blo to the mix will create a danish oil with the same feel as you have now. Either skip the blo when you mix your own or purchase a wipe on varnish like

Arm r seal or Waterlox original sealer finish.

waterlox has more clarity and darker color than arm r seal.

[John TenEyck]

Waterlox is definitely darker than Arm-R-Seal, but I doubt it's clearer.

Semi gloss on curly maple:



Rubbed out gloss on walnut:




John

[Prashun Patel]

I don’t have pictures to prove it, but it is true at least to my eyes. But I am not talking about post rubbing out. I am only talking about after the final application.

That’s not to say arm r seal isn’t fantastic, and the difference is subtle but I find it to be true especially as the finish builds.