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Thread: can someone please help with a mechanical problem with my Grizzly table saw?

  1. #1

    can someone please help with a mechanical problem with my Grizzly table saw?

    I hope someone can please advise on this. I have spent hours trying to figure it out and am very frustrated. This is for a Grizzly 1023rlwx. The mechanism that raises and lowers the blade suddenly stopped working. There is a threaded post with a smooth section (circled in the pictures) and I am fairly certain that is supposed to fit into the bevel gear that engages the second bevel gear driven by the front handwheel. In the bevel gear there are supposed to be two set screws but only one is present. The parts diagram indicates that there is a hex screw on the bottom of the post and when I stick a hex key in there I can definitely engage it but it just turns and turns and does not seem to tighten or loosed in relation to the post. I can't figure out how to get this mechanism apart without removing the top of the saw and the motor--two adventures I'd rather avoid if I can.

    I hope my descriptions of the problem make sense. Perhaps someone who has this model of saw could please take a glance inside theirs and see what this mechanism looks like?

    Thanks, as always, for being helpful.
    20190423_212923.jpg20190423_213021.jpg

  2. #2
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    Hi Gunter,
    I have this exact same model Grizzly table saw. The two bevel gears each have 2 setscrews installed. I checked mine and both bevel gears have 2 setscrews installed and they are tight. The hex head of the setscrews fits a 3mm Allen (Hex) wrench. I would expect that the shafts that the gears are installed onto each have machined flats or equivalent that match up to the locations of the setscrews for the setscrews to seat against. From your photo - it appears as if the shaft has partially come out of the bore in the gear. You will need to remove both setscrews from the bevel gear, push the shaft back down into the bevel gear bore, and rotate the shaft until the 2 flats or recesses line up with the threaded holes for the setscrews. Then install 2 new setscrews. I would suggest using LocTite on the setscrew threads to keep them from coming loose again. I hope this helps.
    David

    20190423_214744.jpg 20190423_214737.jpg 20190423_214539.jpg 20190423_214559.jpg

  3. #3
    Join Date
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    The assembly parts diagram you show also indicates that there is a key that fits a keyway in the shaft and in the bevel gear bore. You will need to align the keyway slot in the bevel gear with this key before the shaft will slide back down into the bevel gear.

  4. #4
    The problem is that I cannot push the shaft downward into the bevel gear. I just can't get it to move. There is a threaded plate above it and I have loosened that and the shaft has a little play back and forth, so I know it is not seized anywhere. On the horizontal bevel gear one of the set screws was screwed in all the way and the other was missing. I can feel the notch for the key and can tell that it is either absent or has slid upwards with the shaft. The most frustrating thing is that I cannot get under it to see exactly what is going on. It appears that to get the list assembly out I would have to remove the top of the saw and the motor.

    Is that an Incra miter gauge bolted to the sliding top? I have the sliding top too and I have not been that impressed with it. How do you like it?

  5. #5
    There is a key (item 55) that should fit into a key way in the miter gear (58). It appears that you shaft has backed out part way and the key may be jammed in the gear hub. There should be two set screws (59) in the bevel gear. The hex bolt (62) is supposed to keep the drive rod (54V2) from backing out of the bevel gear (58). The set screw may have been screwed in too far and is no longer engaged in the threaded hole in the bevel gear. If you can pull the shaft (54V2) back a bit more you should be able slide the bevel gear out of its location. Once you accomplish that you should be able to put things back together. I would suggest that when you do get the hex head screw back in place that you secure it with some blue loctite to insure it doesn't loosen up again and create the same problem.
    Lee Schierer
    USNA- '71
    Captain USN(Ret)

    My advice, comments and suggestions are free, but it costs money to run the site. If you found something of value here please give a little something back by becoming a contributor! Please Contribute

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Lee Schierer View Post
    There is a key (item 55) that should fit into a key way in the miter gear (58). It appears that you shaft has backed out part way and the key may be jammed in the gear hub. There should be two set screws (59) in the bevel gear. The hex bolt (62) is supposed to keep the drive rod (54V2) from backing out of the bevel gear (58). The set screw may have been screwed in too far and is no longer engaged in the threaded hole in the bevel gear. If you can pull the shaft (54V2) back a bit more you should be able slide the bevel gear out of its location. Once you accomplish that you should be able to put things back together. I would suggest that when you do get the hex head screw back in place that you secure it with some blue loctite to insure it doesn't loosen up again and create the same problem.
    So the hex screw (62) just spins and does not seem to tighten or loosen, but also does not fall out. How would you suggest I push the shaft up? All I can think of it putting some sort of rod through the horizontal bevel gear and hitting it with a mallet.

    Thanks.
    Last edited by Günter VögelBerg; 04-24-2019 at 9:03 AM. Reason: spelling

  7. #7
    Can you see into the miter gear with a small mirror to see what is going on? Maybe even take a photo so we can see what you see with the mirror.

    Resorting to a hammer is not a good idea....
    Lee Schierer
    USNA- '71
    Captain USN(Ret)

    My advice, comments and suggestions are free, but it costs money to run the site. If you found something of value here please give a little something back by becoming a contributor! Please Contribute

  8. #8
    Tonight I will see if my endoscope can get in there.

  9. #9
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by Günter VögelBerg View Post
    So the hex screw (62) just spins and does not seem to tighten or loosen, but also does not fall out. How would you suggest I push the shaft up? All I can think of it putting some sort of rod through the horizontal bevel gear and hitting it with a mallet.

    Thanks.
    Gunter,

    So if the hex retaining screw (62) just spins, then it has backed out so far from the end of the shaft that it is no longer engaged in the threaded hole in the end of the shaft. After you have removed the one remaining set screw from the bevel gear, then you should be able to rotate the shaft by hand until the key lines up with the keyway slot in the bevel gear. As was previously stated, removing the bevel gear should facilitate the removal of that last setscrew. I believe that this all can be accomplished without taking the "top" off the table saw. And - I would definitely not recommend "hitting it with a mallet".

    Just out of curiosity - how long have you owned this saw, and did you purchase it new from Grizzly?
    David

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by David Buchhauser View Post
    Gunter,

    So if the hex retaining screw (62) just spins, then it has backed out so far from the end of the shaft that it is no longer engaged in the threaded hole in the end of the shaft. After you have removed the one remaining set screw from the bevel gear, then you should be able to rotate the shaft by hand until the key lines up with the keyway slot in the bevel gear. As was previously stated, removing the bevel gear should facilitate the removal of that last setscrew. I believe that this all can be accomplished without taking the "top" off the table saw. And - I would definitely not recommend "hitting it with a mallet".

    Just out of curiosity - how long have you owned this saw, and did you purchase it new from Grizzly?
    David
    Are you saying remove the vertical bevel gear?

    I bought it new from Grizzly about 4 years ago.

  11. #11
    Join Date
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    Location
    Tucson, Arizona
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    Yes - you may need to remove the bevel gear (the one that the vertical shaft has backed out of) in order to facilitate removal of the remaining set screw. If the remaining set screw was screwed in so far that it is no longer engaging in the internal threads of the set screw "hole", then this is most likely the easiest way to remove the setscrew. Actually - I think there are only 4 bolts that attach the table saw cast iron top. It wouldn't be so bad to remove this top if it makes your access much easier. The key here is to align the miter slots to the blade when you reinstall the top.
    Buy the way - I am extremely pleased with the sliding attachment. I will give you a better response later this evening.

    David

  12. #12
    Current task is removing the shaft that goes through the front handwheel and the front bevel gear.

  13. #13
    I found the problem--I am missing the key that engages the post with the bevel gear. It is probably in my dust collector with the missing set screw,

    $1.75+$9.99 shipping.

  14. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by Günter VögelBerg View Post
    I found the problem--I am missing the key that engages the post with the bevel gear. It is probably in my dust collector with the missing set screw,

    $1.75+$9.99 shipping.
    I'm glad you found the problem and you will be woodworking again soon.
    Lee Schierer
    USNA- '71
    Captain USN(Ret)

    My advice, comments and suggestions are free, but it costs money to run the site. If you found something of value here please give a little something back by becoming a contributor! Please Contribute

  15. #15
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by Günter VögelBerg View Post
    Is that an Incra miter gauge bolted to the sliding top? I have the sliding top too and I have not been that impressed with it. How do you like it?
    Hi Gunter,
    I'm happy to hear that you have solved your problem. Yes - I have the Incra 5000 miter sled attached to the sliding table attachment. I also have a small Fritz & Franz cross-cut jig that rides in the miter/T-slots on the Incra. This has been very handy for cutting small parts. I was unhappy when I first installed the sliding table attachment because it protruded too far beyond the front of the table and made it very difficult to use the saw as a conventional table saw. I solved this problem by moving the sliding table attachment about 11" towards the rear of the saw. Now the front of the slider is almost even with the front of the table saw. The only down-side is that the maximum cross cut is now about 36" (as opposed to the original 48"). For me - this is not a problem as I use a track saw to break down sheet goods and so 36" is more than adequate. I also made a "rip sled" fixture for ripping shorter pieces using the sliding table. I do have the slider mounted so the top surface is about 0.015" higher than the table saw surface. This helps to eliminate dragging of the parts as they move over the table surface. Let me know if you want any more information about my setup.
    Thanks,
    David

    F & F Jig 1.jpg F & F Jig 2.jpg F & F Jig 3.jpg slider flush with front of saw.jpg Rip Sled for smaller pieces.jpg Rip Sled for smaller pieces 2.jpg

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