can someone please help with a mechanical problem with my Grizzly table saw?

[Richard Coers]

I found the problem--I am missing the key that engages the post with the bevel gear. It is probably in my dust collector with the missing set screw,

$1.75+$9.99 shipping.

Did you order it? Can't imagine you can't get one at a hardware or farm store.

[Lee Schierer]

Did you order it? Can't imagine you can't get one at a hardware or farm store.

It may be metric, since the set screws are metric.

[Günter VögelBerg]

Did you order it? Can't imagine you can't get one at a hardware or farm store.

I asked a friend of mine who works at an industrial supply shop if she had any and she said they only sell the bar stock to make them, which I thought was a bit odd. There probably is a local hardware store that has them, but the time it would likely take me to find one is worth more than ten bucks.

They are metric. 5x5x15.

Speaking of metric...Why is it that Grizzly machines use half their components in metric and half in imperial? I don't care which one they use, but I wish they would pick one and stick to it.

Also, the imperial system is weird, but that topic has been beat to death.

[Günter VögelBerg]

Hi Gunter,
I'm happy to hear that you have solved your problem. Yes - I have the Incra 5000 miter sled attached to the sliding table attachment. I also have a small Fritz & Franz cross-cut jig that rides in the miter/T-slots on the Incra. This has been very handy for cutting small parts. I was unhappy when I first installed the sliding table attachment because it protruded too far beyond the front of the table and made it very difficult to use the saw as a conventional table saw. I solved this problem by moving the sliding table attachment about 11" towards the rear of the saw. Now the front of the slider is almost even with the front of the table saw. The only down-side is that the maximum cross cut is now about 36" (as opposed to the original 48"). For me - this is not a problem as I use a track saw to break down sheet goods and so 36" is more than adequate. I also made a "rip sled" fixture for ripping shorter pieces using the sliding table. I do have the slider mounted so the top surface is about 0.015" higher than the table saw surface. This helps to eliminate dragging of the parts as they move over the table surface. Let me know if you want any more information about my setup.
Thanks,
David

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Did you have to drill more holes to move it forwards?

Like you, the thing I have the most trouble with using the slider is how awkward it can be to stand in front of the saw while not actually using the slider. It forces me to either stand directly in the path of any kickback to far to the left.

Do you have trouble getting it to reset to 90 degrees accurately?

When i sold my last saw I kept the incra miter gauge and still use it for small parts.

[David Buchhauser]

Did you have to drill more holes to move it forwards?

Like you, the thing I have the most trouble with using the slider is how awkward it can be to stand in front of the saw while not actually using the slider. It forces me to either stand directly in the path of any kickback to far to the left.

Do you have trouble getting it to reset to 90 degrees accurately?

When i sold my last saw I kept the incra miter gauge and still use it for small parts.

Hi Gunter,

The three existing mounting holes are 11" apart, so I drilled one new 3/8" diameter hole and shifted the slider to the rear of the saw by 11" (see photos).
Otherwise the slider would have been protruding into the area where I like to stand when using the saw in a conventional manner.

It is not possible (in my opinion) to reset the slider miter fence to 90 degrees (or any other angle) using the miter gauge. I use a large square to set the miter fence at 90 degrees to the blade every time I reinstall the fence. I actually have a precision bar that fits into the table saw miter slot. Since the saw blade is parallel to the miter slot (I have checked this - it is indeed parallel within 0.002" to the blade) it is easier for me to use the precision bar. The bar is also longer than the blade so it is easier to get an accurate setting.

So after I moved the slider to the rear by the 11", it is now a joy to use - either as a slider or in the conventional manner.

Like you - I was surprised that on this table saw some of the bolts have SAE threads and some are Metric. This does not bother me as long as I know which bolts are which.

Thanks,
David





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[glenn bradley]

I found the problem--I am missing the key that engages the post with the bevel gear. It is probably in my dust collector with the missing set screw,

$1.75+$9.99 shipping.

Yay!!! High five on that one.

[Tom Bender]

Keys are needed in many different lengths so key stock is available. If I had the right size (unfortunately not) I'd cut one off and mail it today, free to a Creeker.

[David Buchhauser]

Tim,
What you have posted is I believe an inappropriate link. SMC is probably not the place for your SPAM!! Hopefully one of the moderators will take down your post.
David

[Günter VögelBerg]

Thanks to all, the saw is again functional.

[David Buchhauser]

Thanks to all, the saw is again functional.

Great to hear that Gunter!! That's at great table saw you have there. Thanks for the update.
David

[David Buchhauser]

By the way - it's only 1:15 in Tucson, AZ. So for us - this is still Monday night.

[Terence Tourangeau]

Love your setup with the small rip fence! I bought a Frankenstein version of the saw from another forum member.... It has the sliding table and it got moved ahead as yours is. He put the whole thing on amobile base which is handy.

I got an incra fence and paired it with an old V120 I wasn't using. I made some track stock out of maple that fits snugly into the track on the sliding table, and that's all I currently need to keep it square with the blade when it goes on and off.

What I plan to do, though, is copy the hammer k3 flip stop. It's an ingenious solution to this problem... I just need to get some aluminum to make it with!

The previous owner of my saw put in a router table past the blade to use with the sliding table, but I will probably split this off into its own table. Then I will probably make a similar sled to yours to permit cutting off close to the blade. It's not as elegant as a true slider but I'm giving up on that dream for now!

[David Buchhauser]

Love your setup with the small rip fence! I bought a Frankenstein version of the saw from another forum member.... It has the sliding table and it got moved ahead as yours is. He put the whole thing on amobile base which is handy.

Thanks Terence! I like my saw much better with the slider moved forward. When I use the Incra miter 5000 - the stock miter bar is riding in the table saw miter slot to keep it aligned. My small rip jig has a bar that locates in the slider miter slot. I'd love to see some pictures of your setup.
David

[Günter VögelBerg]

so I moved the slider forward and have been using it like that for a couple of weeks and I think I am going to move it back. The reason I don't like it forward is that I have to remove the miter fence more often when making rip cuts.

[David Buchhauser]

Hi Gunter,
The main reason I moved my slider forward is so that I could stand in the traditional position when using the saw for conventional ripping of longer boards.
David