Tried and True on curly wood

[Stan Calow]

I am considering using T&T tung oil/beeswax formula on a curly pear table top. I've not used T&T before but am aware of the need for careful application and long cure times. My question is whether this finish (or maybe any other oil finish) will obscure the chatoyance of the curly grain. I will be highlighting the curl by dying & sanding back. I've only used shellac on curly maple before, for this kind of project.

I dont have a lot of extra wood to try it out first. I could not find a lot of threads on T&T but I know there're a lot of pros and cons.

[Wayne Lomman]

You are going to need to find enough area to do a test. If you don't have enough scrap, use the back or underneath or somewhere similar on your actual job. I am not familiar with the brand of danish oil you are proposing but any coating/finish that provides enough of a film to react with light is going to give you what you want. Any oil will darken the job to some degree so be wary of how far you go with staining. Colour in the oil will hide the grain so staining with dye will be best. Cheers

[Jim Becker]

T&T will not obscure the character of the wood. Like any oil...it will enhance it. I'm a T&T fan and have been for 20 years. Professor Dr. SWMBO's cherry desk was finished in it in 1997 and it still looks great. (when you can find it under all the papers, etc. ) That said, it's important to remember that even though the oil cures, it's not like having a protective film finish. I only use it primarily for decorative items, for the most part. I do use the oil only formula as a first step quite frequently. While I could use cheaper mass market BLO for that, I like that T&T has no metallic driers.

[Stan Calow]

Thanks guys. I'll look for an inconspicuous place on the underside to give it a test. I'm using the T&T mostly because it seemed like a good opportunity to try it. I want to minimize the color change, otherwise I would go with Waterlox or Arm-r-seal.

[Jim Tobias]

+1 on what Jim said. Also, I have been using T & T on numerous items lately and have really liked it. I have found (in my experience) that if you sand up to very fine grits(1000 grit) before applying, you will not have as much issue with it drying as it seems less of it is absorbed. If you apply it too thick, it will take several days to dry completely. The key is don't apply it too thick!! And sand the wood to a very high grit before applying. It also gives the item a silk like feel when finished. The box in the picture was finished with T&T and it popped the grain really well.

Jim1.jpg

[Stan Calow]

Jim, thanks for the tip on sanding. I think the tactile feel of a finished wood surface is an under-appreciated factor in choosing finishes.

[Jim Becker]

Jim hit on a very important thing with T&T (and any oil, quite frankly)...VERY thin coats. Never load it on and leave it. Apply. Let it soak a bit. Wipe off ALL excess. Let it cure overnight before you re-coat. With the oil/beeswax version you are using you'll want to buff it up nicely after it cures for a few days. You'll enjoy the luster.

[Phil Mueller]

So true on the feel. It seems no one can resist running their fingers over finished wood

By the way, very beautiful box, Jim.