Chainsaws and Oil Leaking

[John K Jordan]

I suspect most dealers will use the cheapest bar oil possible.

My saws leak oil if I use the cheap stuff from Northern Tool - it's runnier. They don't leak when I use the good stuff from Stihl - it's thicker.

They do leak less when I lay them on the side, even with the cheap oil. If I'm concerned about oil spots I sent the saw on a tray.

JKJ

[Joe Rogers]

My Husky leaks. Don’t care as I figure the bar oiler is working therefore saving me wear on the bar and chain.
Joe

[John K Jordan]

My Husky leaks. Don’t care as I figure the bar oiler is working therefore saving me wear on the bar and chain.
Joe

A functioning oiler is something some people I know seem to never think about. On my Stihl saws running through a tank of gas will use up most of the oil in the oil tank. If not, the oiler may be clogged with sawdust or something. I had to clean it out once on one saw, probably clogged from sawdust I let drop into the tank when filling.

Also, I rarely see anyone check the chain lubrication as Stihl recommends: aim the tip of the bar towards something that can show oil spray then rev the engine and see if the chain throws off a little oil. I do this every time I fill the tanks.

Another thing they recommend is flipping the bar every time the chain needs sharpening to even out the wear.

JKJ

[robert wiggins]

I've found a paint filter from the NAPA store does well at filtering most harmful debris when adding gas or oil. The poor ole chain saw needs all the help it can get.

[Tom M King]

If I flipped the bar every time I sharpen a chain, I'd be flipping it multiple times a day. I'd rather keep it sharp with 1 or 2 strokes per tooth often, than wait until it needs 5 or 7 strokes. That way, it's always sharp.

I always look in my fuel can before I put the next mix in it. I don't remember ever seeing anything in it, but I do wipe off around the fuel cap on the saw before I open it. It looks to me like if sawdust is getting in the saw's tank, that it's most likely not coming our of the fuel jug.

[John K Jordan]

If I flipped the bar every time I sharpen a chain, I'd be flipping it multiple times a day. I'd rather keep it sharp with 1 or 2 strokes per tooth often, than wait until it needs 5 or 7 strokes. That way, it's always sharp.

I always look in my fuel can before I put the next mix in it. I don't remember ever seeing anything in it, but I do wipe off around the fuel cap on the saw before I open it. It looks to me like if sawdust is getting in the saw's tank, that it's most likely not coming our of the fuel jug.

I think the sawdust comes from not cleaning around the cap on the oil tank, from sticky oil, not from the jug of oil. Wiping it off before adding oil is good. It doesn't seem to stick around the fuel tank cap.

I used to sharpen like you do but I'm usually using my saws around the farm and not a lot at once I usually just take the saw back to the shop to the sharpener when it gets dull. Gives my old back a rest too.

So how often do you flip the bar?

[Tom M King]

I don't have any set time to flip the bar. Probably just when I put a new chain on. Since i sharpen often, sometimes every tank fill-up, but mostly every other fill-up, I'm also tightening the bar often. I expect keeping the chain tight slows bar wear.

I don't like the chain loose, so when a new chain goes on, if there is any slop in the slot, I'll close it up with a bar rail tightener. Like this, but I think mine is an Oregon-don't remember.
https://www.baileysonline.com/woodla...RoCeZ4QAvD_BwE

We have a fair amount of timberland, so saws gets used for days at the time sometimes, as well as keeping up the trails, and farm here too.

[John K Jordan]

I don't like the chain loose, so when a new chain goes on, if there is any slop in the slot, I'll close it up with a bar rail tightener. Like this, but I think mine is an Oregon-don't remember.
https://www.baileysonline.com/woodla...RoCeZ4QAvD_BwE

I use the same bar slot tightener, Bailey's is my friend! I buy my chains, chain/bar combos, and things like pruning saws there.

For those who may not know to check the tightness, if it gets sloppy the straightness of the cut can be affected and the bar can wear more quickly.

[Tom M King]

Bailey's used to know me by name. I think another generation is running things now though.

[Jared Sankovich]

A functioning oiler is something some people I know seem to never think about. On my Stihl saws running through a tank of gas will use up most of the oil in the oil tank. If not, the oiler may be clogged with sawdust or something. I had to clean it out once on one saw, probably clogged from sawdust I let drop into the tank when filling.

Also, I rarely see anyone check the chain lubrication as Stihl recommends: aim the tip of the bar towards something that can show oil spray then rev the engine and see if the chain throws off a little oil. I do this every time I fill the tanks.

Another thing they recommend is flipping the bar every time the chain needs sharpening to even out the wear.

JKJ

I think most people who run saws with any regularity are better at checking chain lubrication. I know i was always taught to verify with the clean log/rev saw method. Though i also started with a manual oiler on my dads old Remington saw.

I was concerned enough about oil, i machined the first dolmar 7900 series pump for more flow on 30"+ bars.
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[Tom M King]

I have a very old electric chainsaw that I use for carving into framing timbers on old houses, when there are parts to remove before adding good wood back in. I run the bar, and chain dry because I don't want to sling oil in these houses.

I just figured the bar and chain are disposable, and just a cost of getting the job done. I've been surprised how long the bar, and chain last. They last way longer than you might think they would. Of course, the chain does a lot of stretching to start with, but one will cut dry wood for a long time.

Slinging is checked with the power saws, after fill-up, and sharpening.