Screws questions

[Ray Newman]

Another vote for SPAX.

[Ron Citerone]

I use #8 and #10 1 1/4" and 1 1/2" the most. Stay away from big box steel screws IMO, they break way to easily.

(Furniture making not construction.)

[Günter VögelBerg]

A long time ago I bought a big box of every size square drive screw from Mcfeeleys and they have always worked well. When I need something historically accurate or decorative (My house is from 1910 and I like to do projects with accurate reproductions) I get them at http://www.blacksmithbolt.com/

[David Powell]

McFeely's for 3/4" thru 2" for #8 and 1/2" thru 1-1/4" #6, both in black oxide; also have 1-1/2" thru 3" stainless for outdoor projects. All square drive.

[Tony Pisano]

I still have a variety of small screws that I bought when a pattern shop went out of business. I don't use that often but are there for special needs. When I started building some beekeeping equipment, I developed a liking to Power Pro outdoor screws. In most cases there is no need to predrill and it makes it's own countersink. The star bit comes in the box. The thing I like is you can be reaching over to an area where you can't put direct pressure on the screw to drive it and the bit still holds in the screw and drives fine.

[Sam Murdoch]

I have abandoned all screws other than Torx. I especially love working with GRKs though there are some pretenders that aren't too bad and more affordable. These are screws - trim, normal and pan heads - that can be driven and removed and driven again - inside or outside - minutes or years later - with never stripping out - the threads or the torx head themselves. You don't want the kind of trim screws that have the extra threads just under the heads - bare necks please. This is essential for trim work where you might need to move a screw. Try it - you will know what I mean. Otherwise ...

Phillips, square or, god forbid- straight slots and even posi-drive, are now obsolete to me with the easily available torx. I build cabinets and buildings, porches and cabinet installs and shop jigs with these. I am now the utter screw snob. Give me Torx or nothing at all. No matter, that they are primarily intended for exterior use - they are so good that no need to bother with anything else. I have old stock of nice drill tip phillips screws that I hardly use - several cases. I give those away to less particular screw drivers.

Yes, sometimes I need something more in keeping with tradition. I still use straight slotted bronze and brass as needed. Still looking for torx smaller than # 8s - so that is a factor for certain.

My 2¢.

Sam

[Anuj Prateek]

I buy screws, nut/bolts, washer, etc as needed for use around house or woodworking.

I buy 3/4, 1.25, 1.5, and 2.5 inch screws in boxes/bulk. I find these to be most used. I have these in Philips as well as Torx head. Torx head one are costlier and get used for nicer stuff. Philips head ones are used for utility purposes.

Other sizes, I buy as much as I need. Most of the time the unused ones go waste, so have stopped buying in bulk.

Nut & bolts, I buy as needed and few extras (normally 8-12 extra pieces). I try to to buy #8-12 and 1/4" in small boxes - most used.

Brand wise I like GRK & Spax sold at Homedepot. For general use I buy generic outdoor (grey) screws.

Other than these I keep fine nails (Brad nails?) of few sizes and structural screws (3") handy.

[Jim Dwight]

I buy fancier screws for special purposes but for most uses, I just use regular old drywall screws and keep boxes of 1.25 1 5/8, 2, 2.5 and 3 inch coarse thread on hand. I built a simple wall hung unit to hold the boxes years ago. I think KISS applies well to screws.

[Jim Becker]

Jim, just keep in mind that drywall screws are brittle (by design) which is why so many folks don't recommend them for general woodworking.

[mark mcfarlane]

Jim, just keep in mind that drywall screws are brittle (by design) which is why so many folks don't recommend them for general woodworking.

...which means the heads can shear off fairly easily in denser woods. Yep.

[Brian Behrens]

I have converted to 100% torx for all the reasons previously mentioned .I keep 3/4, 1 1/4, 1 3/4, 2, and 3" on hand at all times. I have sworn off Phillips screws and despise drywall screws. I get mad when I see a drywall screw used for anything but drywall. I will spend the extra 50 cents on a task to use the proper fastener.

If I can't avoid having a screw head showing on a fine project, I use a brass slotted acrew, I just think it's more old timey and classy.

[Dan Hahr]

I’m surprised no one has mentioned buying screws at the lumber yard or cabinet supply house. I’ve probably spent a small fortune on screws from the blue and orange stores before I found Quickscrews and camo screws. Quickscrews are my goto for all cabinet work, pocket hole work, etc. They’re about $22 per 1000 for the 1 1/4” square head. Camo screws are sold at the lumber yard and are just as good as any deck screw but they only cost about $2 per pound. They have torx heads and are coated for exterior use.

Dan

[Dan Hahr]

I’m surprised no one has mentioned buying screws at the lumber yard or cabinet supply house. I’ve probably spent a small fortune on screws from the blue and orange stores before I found Quickscrews and camo screws. Quickscrews are my goto for all cabinet work, pocket hole work, etc. They’re about $22 per 1000 for the 1 1/4” square head. Camo screws are sold at the lumber yard and are just as good as any deck screw but they only cost about $2 per pound. They have torx heads and are coated for exterior use.

Dan

[Steven Powell]

the Irish Pedophile (McFeelys) all the way. I stock #6 robertsons in 3/4, 1. 1.25. and 1.5; and in #8 robertsons: 3/4-, 1-, 1.25-, 1.5-, 2-, 2.5-, and 3-inch. I do some #10s.

Mostly do the boxes of 100 except from 1.25 #8 which I use so many of that I go 1000.

[Frank Necaise]

Thanks, just placed my order.