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Thread: GF milk paint w/ endovar or pigmented lacquer?

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    WNY
    Posts
    9,715
    In your first post you said you'd be using an Earlex. If that means you already have one just use it until it no longer meets your needs. You can spray a pretty wide range of materials with it if you have a large N/N set for it. With solvent based products you can add lots of thinner, if necessary. With WB ones you have some restrictions, but most finishes can be thinned at least 10%. I had to add 18% water to ProClassic to spray it through a gravity feed HVLP conversion gun with a 1.8 mm N/N. I don't recommend doing that, but the final result was very nice. But with a 2.0 or 2.2 (if they offer one) mm N/N in an Earlex you wouldn't need that much water; 10% may be more than enough.

    With many other products, like dyes, shellac, and most clearcoats, the Earlex should do a very nice job. Explore and find its limits. When you have you'll better know what gun, N/N sets, and accessories you need to spray what the Earlex can't. Most of all - have fun!

    John

  2. #32
    Side question:
    the compressor I recently got ahold of is either a late 70’s or early 80’s Campbell Hausfeld 20 gallon unit. Only model number i can see listed is VT-3311-01 but I can’t find much when searching for this. Can’t see any other info plate. It is a 220v unit.
    Is there any somewhat easy way to test cfm to see what it would rate at? The similar looking CF compressors appear to be rated at 5.5 @ 90 if there is even a somewhat equal comparison.
    This unit was a hobby/tinkerer’s unit. Barely used, owner passed, picked it up for $40 since the current owner bought it without knowing it needed 220. So in theory this unit should run great.

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Lake Gaston, Henrico, NC
    Posts
    9,029
    Does the motor plate have amperage listed? Seems a bit strange to me that a compressor with a 20 gallon tank is wired for 220.

    I have one compressor, that I bought new in the early 70's that still runs fine, and all I've ever done to it is change the oil. They were well made here then.

  4. #34
    Yes the earlex unit is my only setup at the moment. All of my projects have been stains and WB topcoats, so easily handled through the 5500.
    The 5500 comes with a 2.0 needle but you can go up to a 2.5. Fairly inexpensive to get too.
    I was asking so many questions about other setups one out of curiosity but two since I’ve come across a decent number of posts talking about people needing something more robust than the 5500 to spray thicker products. Got me cautious of even wanting to try it if that many people were having problems.
    But who knows if they exhausted the full needle size range! I’ll probably order the 2.5 and give it a try.

  5. #35
    Yes there is a plate on the motor. I can take a look at that in the morning.
    I did think it was a bit odd for a 220v motor to be on this but figured it might be one of the unique models that are rarely come across.
    This isn’t an upright, it’s a roll around type. Nice cast iron head on it, belt driven.
    Im hoping it’s like you mentioned, things made then we’re rock solid and should still be fine today.
    I’ll post back what the motor numbers are tomorrow.

  6. #36
    Here is a pic of the motor plate:
    IMG_0119.jpg

    Appears decently beefy. Maybe it was replaced way back when from a 110v unit.
    Either way, I have the wiring to my garage ready, just have to swap the breaker out in the house to move it to 220v.

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Lake Gaston, Henrico, NC
    Posts
    9,029
    That's a good motor. I wouldn't bother to replace it.

  8. #38
    nope. wasn't going to touch that one.
    Think I have a 3450rpm 110v motor that may have worked to swap, but once I saw the specs I figured it would probably be a downgrade in quality.

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