Recommendation: 36 or 48" rule?

[James Biddle]

I never use a rule longer than 24" and reach for a tape measure for longer. Do you guys use the longer rules enough where you reach for them over a tape?

[Bill Space]

I've been searching for a ~48" rule that has 1/64 indications & is easy to read. My 12" Starrett combo square (non-chrome) rule is not easy to read, so a 48" version of that would be useless to me.

EDIT: Ha! Found one with the right search! https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/91099044

My 4' straight edge is a Starret #387. Very accurate (0.0002" per foot) and would be very expensive to replace.

BUT the smallest division is 1/32". Frankly for wood working I can't imagine the need for a 1/64 division.

Can someone enlighten me why such small divisions would be desirable?

Bill

[Bill Space]

I never use a rule longer than 24" and reach for a tape measure for longer. Do you guys use the longer rules enough where you reach for them over a tape?

I use my 4' straight edge for setting up and adjusting my tools. For example jointer tables. Invaluable for that.

If I want a good fit, I will use two sticks to take the measurement and never a tape measure.

I may use my 4' straight edge on my workbench, since it is super accurate, as a reference to take a measurement of something, but never use it for taking an actual measurement other than of what I can bring to it.

Bill

[Jim Becker]

I never use a rule longer than 24" and reach for a tape measure for longer. Do you guys use the longer rules enough where you reach for them over a tape?

I use my 36" and 40" rule quite a bit. It's "finer" than the tape measure and doesn't do weird bendy things when I least can afford the third hand to do what I'm doing. I do use a tape measure, but generally only when it's the "better tool" for the job rather than just because something is a certain size. I also like the flexible, yet rigid feel of the thin steel rules, too.

[Brian Holcombe]

I can avoid measuring if I just transfer marks, so often enough I just use my saw’s tape (which is very accurate) to set overall dimensions and a lot of other things work off of existing.

[Alan Lightstone]

Just to throw it out there, have you considered the Woodpeckers aluminum rules?

That's what I use. In a variety of sizes. Been very happy with them.

[Ben Rivel]

That's what I use. In a variety of sizes. Been very happy with them.

Likewise. Believe I have all the sizes except for the 6" because they didnt make it compatible with their Hook Stop.

[Jim Becker]

I can avoid measuring if I just transfer marks, so often enough I just use my saw’s tape (which is very accurate) to set overall dimensions and a lot of other things work off of existing.

I also make and use story sticks for certain kinds of projects so I only need to "measure twice" on the story stick and then just transfer the (presumably... ) accurate marks to the workpiece(s).

[Brian Holcombe]

I also make and use story sticks for certain kinds of projects so I only need to "measure twice" on the story stick and then just transfer the (presumably... ) accurate marks to the workpiece(s).

Definitely a handy method, I used this recently on a countertop project which could not be fitted in place due to the finish applied. Worked well and helped reduce the amount of time spent wondering if I measured to the right or left of the tick mark on the steel square.

I’ve been considering adding a digital aspect to my Glide Stop for purposes of it acting as a comparator.

Also I’ve been thinking to start using multiple methods and compare results on more critical parts that require odd transfers (can’t directly transfer).

[Nick Shattuck]

My 4' straight edge is a Starret #387. Very accurate (0.0002" per foot) and would be very expensive to replace.

BUT the smallest division is 1/32". Frankly for wood working I can't imagine the need for a 1/64 division.

Can someone enlighten me why such small divisions would be desirable?

Bill

It's probably not required, it's just the metrologist in me wanting increased resolution of measurement. 1/32 would be fine for anything I do.

[Bradley Gray]

I carry a folding rule in my back pocket every day. 7"-72" plus inside measures to 80". if i need a more accurate measurement I make a layout stick and bypass increments entirely.

[Al Launier]

I agree that 1/32" is adequate for most woodworking projects, but at the hobbyist size level 1/32" shows up like a sore thumb. I have a couple of Starrett 12" scales that I use for my hobbyist projects where 1/64" is as much error as I'm willing to accept, and then it must be hidden. Having been a Tool & Die Maker in my earlier work days has obviously left me with an anal desire for accuracy & precision.

[Prashun Patel]

I have a 36 and a 48. I reach for my 36” about 10x more.

We want a kitchen table that can seat 20 people so that once a year at thanksgiving, everyone fits.

[Chapel Eastland]

I read in Jim Tolpins book on "Measure Twice Cut Once", how he made some shop rules. I followed his advice and made a nice 4 foot rule out of 3/4" aluminum angle iron from tractor supply. The aluminum was $6.00, and straight as an arrow.
I bought the Starrett Measure Stix with imperial numbers and 1/32" the first foot. Stuck it to one side of the angle iron, and now have a nice 4' rule that sits up so you can see it better and works well.
Total cost $13.00

After seeing your post I ordered the Starrett Measure Stix and bought a "straight" aluminum angle at Home Depot. I also ordered three of Tolpin's books, including the one you referenced.

Thanks for your post.

[Mel Fulks]

The Harbor Freight 4 foot aluminum rules are impressively straight. I store -tested with two. Then bought more.