Band saw blade size and burning

[Dan Gaylin]

Thanks Edwin, that’s helpful. I was generally aware of this rule of thumb but the additional details are very useful. Why do you think the 116 is the way to go?

[Edwin Santos]

Thanks Edwin, that’s helpful. I was generally aware of this rule of thumb but the additional details are very useful. Why do you think the 116 is the way to go?

Dan,
I recommended 116" because it is a common size for the 14" class of bandsaw plus you noticed it referenced in the spec sheet. I think it's better to err to the smaller size, but honestly your adjustment range should accommodate the range of size choices you are deliberating.

Turning to some of the other responses you have received, I will be a heretic and share my opinion that tension is important to a point, but way overblown in discussion forums. I have seen a philosophy that more is better with tension and not only is this misleading, but beyond a certain point, excessive tension can represent harm to your saw. I don't think you need to throw away money on a tension gauge, and whatever you do, beware of the high tension springs that Iturra sells. Instead I would refer you to some of the resources Fine Woodworking has put out from Michael Fortune on his methods for setting up a bandsaw, choosing blades and all aspects of use. I took a class with him, came back to my shop, followed his recommendations, and have never looked back. And the saw he was using in the class was a Jet 14". https://www.finewoodworking.com/2011...t-up-a-bandsaw

The tension you need is just enough for the saw to cut and perform to your satisfaction. Any more tension than that is unnecessary and mostly theoretical. In your case, based on the problem you have described, I will be interested to hear if your cutting experience is improved by changing nothing other than the blade to the Timberwolf you mentioned (though since your saw is new, I would recommend aligning it in the way Michael Fortune demonstrates because it's possible your blade is not centered in the kerf). If you try them and find Fortune's techniques do not work for you, then you can try Louis Iturra's recommendations, which will probably involve buying products he sells.

[Chapel Eastland]

"I don't think you need to throw away money on a tension gauge,"

I want to know how much tension is on the blade for the same reason I use a dial indicator to set jointer knives, to check table saw blades, and use a ruler to be accurate in measurements.

As to Michael Fortune, there's nothing in his video that isn't good advice and he also says in another video that blade drift is not a real thing, rather incorrect bandsaw setup. Let's not make Mr. Fortune anti- tension gauge.

As I said earlier, the flutter and deflection method may work for some and more power to those that do so. But flutter and deflection tells you nothing measurable about blade tension.

It's antecdotal at best, not data. And for every one person who finds it works for them, there's 99 others who use those methods without a clue and have problems.

It's like kicking a tire to determine air pressure. I prefer to use a tire pressure gauge. While others are guessing, I know.

[Mike King]

As to Michael Fortune, there's nothing in his video that isn't good advice and he also says in another video that blade drift is not a real thing, rather incorrect bandsaw setup. Let's not make Mr. Fortune anti- tension gauge.

Except that he definitely doesn’t use a tension gauge and advocates only using enough tension to take the major deflection out of the blade. How do I know? I took a two-week workshop with him at Anderson Ranch and we went through properly setting up a bandsaw.

I seriously doubt that the burning is cause by tension, or a lack of it. The culprit is likely that the gullets are being overloaded, and that could be from an improper blade (not enough set, too many teeth, gullets too shallow, dull), improper technique (feed rate too high), or improper blade alignment.

[Chapel Eastland]

I said earlier (twice) that some people have success with their own methods. I also said that incorrect tension is a major problem with over tension (rare) and under tension (common). If everyone who used a bandsaw was Michael Fortune there would be less problems (perhaps) but correct tension remains a problem, particularly with beginnners and even many who have used bandsaws for years.

[Dan Gaylin]

I seriously doubt that the burning is cause by tension, or a lack of it. The culprit is likely that the gullets are being overloaded, and that could be from an improper blade (not enough set, too many teeth, gullets too shallow, dull), improper technique (feed rate too high), or improper blade alignment.

I realize that you guys may be just discussing this in generalities at this point, but in case you missed my previous post, the new blade (with proper set-up, and a similar approach to tension that I was using with the previous blade) solved the problem entirely.

Chapel, I agree with the band saw sticky (thank you for pointing it out to me) on every point, including the fact that the blades made of silicone steel (e.g., Timberwolf, which is the replacement blade I installed) are very nice initially but dull quickly. I wanted to try this particular blade because I am familiar with them and could quickly get my hands on one in the right size.

I should have noted that the stock blade I replaced was essentially new (I got the saw in February and haven't used it much, in part because it was frustrating me with the burning). So the blade wasn't dull. And it wasn't installed incorrectly. It was just a terrible blade. So my recommendation to anyone who has bought a new Jet bandsaw recently and is dissatisfied with the results is to throw away the blade that came with it, and install a new one from a reputable blade manufacturer.

[Edwin Santos]

Dan,
Thank you for reporting back with the solution to your original issue. Glad to hear you've solved your problem and you're ready to roll.

Edwin

[Chapel Eastland]

The blade that came with my Grizzly was of value only to setup the bandsaw, make sure it worked properly, make a few cuts, then off it came. I buy Lenox Diemaster 2. Initially more expensive, but very cost effective long-term.

I wish Lenox made a 3/16 and 1/8 but they don't so I'm looking to Starrett for those.

Glad your problem was solved.