Band saw blade size and burning

[Dan Gaylin]

Hi all,

i finally bit the bullet and got a new bandsaw, Jet JBS-14SFX. I am generally very happy with it but I have two questions:

First the saw seems to burn hardwood of 2-3 thick. I’ve tried different feed rates but it seems to consistently cause some burning. Any thoughts about why this would be? The stock blade is 5/8” deep by 116.25 long, 4 tpi, hook type, 025” thick. Burning happens whether crosscutting or ripping, straight or curved cuts, although it’s worse on curves.

Which brings me to question 2: thinking that the blade that came with the saw is probably not great, one thing I am going to try is replacing the blade. The spec sheet for the saw says it takes a 116” blade. But the owners manual says the blade is 116.25. I can find replacement blades that are 116.0 and 116.5. But not ones that are 116.25. My initial thought was to go with 116.5 to give me a little extra room, but then it occurred to me that since the spec sheet says 116, maybe 116 and 116.25 are interchangeable. Any thoughts here?

I emailed the blade length question to Jet and they have not replied.

thanks for your help!

-dan

[robert wiggins]

First things first, congrats on your new saw purchase. Be correct with with the blade tension and if that is correct it may be wise to buy a quality blade, and there are so many choices that can be confusing.

In general, manufacturers are so tight with their tooth set this burning doesn't surprise me. Table saw blades are equal in that fault but I guess we should feel fortunate too little tooth set in a band blade doesn't promote kick back as it does in table saw blades.

[George Yetka]

What is your main use of the bandsaw? Resawing, tight curved lines, etc?

[Lee Schierer]

1/4" of blade length is 1/8" of movement in your tension adjustment. Without knowing the actual length of your current blade it is difficult to determine if a longer blade would be a problem. Hopefully some other owners of the same model saw will chime in on what they buy.

[Dan Gaylin]

Thanks for the helpful replies. . I do everything with the saw: resawing, knocking the corners off of bowl blanks to make discs for turning, crosscutting dimensioned lumber and boards. Saw is properly adjusted and tensioned. Not a lot of tight curves. I kept my smaller bandsaw for that (old 10” craftsman’ bench top). In general does higher tension or lower tension lead to burning?

Robet, what do you mean by “tight with their tooth set”? I thought 4 tpi on a bandsaw with a 5/8 deep blade and a resaw throat of 13” seemed like a lot of teeth. The blade I am thinking of changing to is a Timberwolf 1/2” deep 3 tpi. It’s a new model saw so I’m not sure how many folks might chime in.

[andy bessette]

Get a 116" carbide blade.

[Edwin Santos]

Hi,
Get the 116" blade.

When choosing blades follow the 3/6 rule for TPI. No less than 3, no more than 6 teeth in the work. If you were cutting a 3" thick workpiece and used a 4tpi blade you had 12 teeth in the cut. The gullets were not deep enough to clear sawdust efficiently.

Note: the 3/6 rule does not apply to certain blades like the carbide Lenox tri-master or woodslicer blades.

If you are doing a tall resaw or working with thick stock and must violate the 3/6 rule, just use the lowest tpi you can. In a carbon steel blade this is probably going to be 3 tpi.

[Dan Gaylin]

Thanks Edwin, that’s helpful. I was generally aware of this rule of thumb but the additional details are very useful. Why do you think the 116 is the way to go?

[Edwin Santos]

Thanks Edwin, that’s helpful. I was generally aware of this rule of thumb but the additional details are very useful. Why do you think the 116 is the way to go?

Dan,
I recommended 116" because it is a common size for the 14" class of bandsaw plus you noticed it referenced in the spec sheet. I think it's better to err to the smaller size, but honestly your adjustment range should accommodate the range of size choices you are deliberating.

Turning to some of the other responses you have received, I will be a heretic and share my opinion that tension is important to a point, but way overblown in discussion forums. I have seen a philosophy that more is better with tension and not only is this misleading, but beyond a certain point, excessive tension can represent harm to your saw. I don't think you need to throw away money on a tension gauge, and whatever you do, beware of the high tension springs that Iturra sells. Instead I would refer you to some of the resources Fine Woodworking has put out from Michael Fortune on his methods for setting up a bandsaw, choosing blades and all aspects of use. I took a class with him, came back to my shop, followed his recommendations, and have never looked back. And the saw he was using in the class was a Jet 14". https://www.finewoodworking.com/2011...t-up-a-bandsaw

The tension you need is just enough for the saw to cut and perform to your satisfaction. Any more tension than that is unnecessary and mostly theoretical. In your case, based on the problem you have described, I will be interested to hear if your cutting experience is improved by changing nothing other than the blade to the Timberwolf you mentioned (though since your saw is new, I would recommend aligning it in the way Michael Fortune demonstrates because it's possible your blade is not centered in the kerf). If you try them and find Fortune's techniques do not work for you, then you can try Louis Iturra's recommendations, which will probably involve buying products he sells.

[Chapel Eastland]

"I don't think you need to throw away money on a tension gauge,"

I want to know how much tension is on the blade for the same reason I use a dial indicator to set jointer knives, to check table saw blades, and use a ruler to be accurate in measurements.

As to Michael Fortune, there's nothing in his video that isn't good advice and he also says in another video that blade drift is not a real thing, rather incorrect bandsaw setup. Let's not make Mr. Fortune anti- tension gauge.

As I said earlier, the flutter and deflection method may work for some and more power to those that do so. But flutter and deflection tells you nothing measurable about blade tension.

It's antecdotal at best, not data. And for every one person who finds it works for them, there's 99 others who use those methods without a clue and have problems.

It's like kicking a tire to determine air pressure. I prefer to use a tire pressure gauge. While others are guessing, I know.

[Mike King]

As to Michael Fortune, there's nothing in his video that isn't good advice and he also says in another video that blade drift is not a real thing, rather incorrect bandsaw setup. Let's not make Mr. Fortune anti- tension gauge.

Except that he definitely doesn’t use a tension gauge and advocates only using enough tension to take the major deflection out of the blade. How do I know? I took a two-week workshop with him at Anderson Ranch and we went through properly setting up a bandsaw.

I seriously doubt that the burning is cause by tension, or a lack of it. The culprit is likely that the gullets are being overloaded, and that could be from an improper blade (not enough set, too many teeth, gullets too shallow, dull), improper technique (feed rate too high), or improper blade alignment.

[robert wiggins]

Robet, what do you mean by “tight with their tooth set”? I thought 4 tpi on a bandsaw with a 5/8 deep blade and a resaw throat of 13” seemed like a lot of teeth. The blade I am thinking of changing to is a Timberwolf 1/2” deep 3 tpi. It’s a new model saw so I’m not sure how many folks might chime in.

************************************************** ************
"tight" meaning not enough set in my opinion. Measure the kerf and the blade blank. Half of that difference will be the approximate set in a tooth.

[Dan Gaylin]

************************************************** ************
"tight" meaning not enough set in my opinion. Measure the kerf and the blade blank. Half of that difference will be the approximate set in a tooth.

Thanks! And sorry for misspelling your name

[robert wiggins]

Thanks! And sorry for misspelling your name

I didn't even notice. I have a niece that pronounced it like that when she was little so that really isn't new. Even being grown now she still remembers that and uses it once in awhile just to tease her uncle " Robet ".

[John K Jordan]

Do you have a bandsaw blade shop? One near here (in Knoxville, TN) will make blades to any length using Lennox stock. I take an existing blade and the guy duplicates the length. The cost is less than buying one elsewhere and he can usually make a blade while I wait. The Lennox web site will tell you if and what blade shops are closest to your area.

I mostly use 1/2" 3tpi Lenox steel blades for preparing turning blanks of all sizes and types, from pen blanks up to 12" thick, green and dry, soft and very hard woods. The "rule" about the number of teeth in a cut is a guideline but not useful for cuts in 12" wood. It also doesn't work with my Woodmizer bandsaw mill since it would limit me to narrow logs. I've used 4tpi blades on 12" thick wood with no problems - might have to slow down a little.

"Consistently" burning sounds really wrong. I would suspect not enough set in the teeth, dull blade, guides not adjusted properly, pushing too hard/fast, or tension too low. If tension is too low the blade can do a variety of bad things, for example bowing in the cut for thick wood. The tension indicator on most bandsaws is worthless - I use a blade tension gauge to be sure of the tension and I consistently have to use a much higher tension than indicated by the marks on every bandsaw I've had and tried. Before you do much else try increasing tension - for a 1/2" blade try the setting for a 3/4" or larger blade.

If you are not yet experienced with bandsaws perhaps you could get someone to look and try yours.

JKJ

Hi all,

i finally bit the bullet and got a new bandsaw, Jet JBS-14SFX. I am generally very happy with it but I have two questions:

First the saw seems to burn hardwood of 2-3 thick. I’ve tried different feed rates but it seems to consistently cause some burning. Any thoughts about why this would be? The stock blade is 5/8” deep by 116.25 long, 4 tpi, hook type, 025” thick. Burning happens whether crosscutting or ripping, straight or curved cuts, although it’s worse on curves.

Which brings me to question 2: thinking that the blade that came with the saw is probably not great, one thing I am going to try is replacing the blade. The spec sheet for the saw says it takes a 116” blade. But the owners manual says the blade is 116.25. I can find replacement blades that are 116.0 and 116.5. But not ones that are 116.25. My initial thought was to go with 116.5 to give me a little extra room, but then it occurred to me that since the spec sheet says 116, maybe 116 and 116.25 are interchangeable. Any thoughts here?

I emailed the blade length question to Jet and they have not replied.

thanks for your help!

-dan