Kitchen window over sink.

[Jeremy Patrick]

Hello,
looking to the grand knowledge of folks in this forum. My latest project is building jamb extensions for all the windows in the house as we replace them. So far I’ve built all the second door windows extensions out of local pine, matching casing and baseboard. Have been finishing with a few coats of super blonde shellac and topping with a few coats of EM6000. Everything looks excellent so far. Not really heavy contact to the jamb extension surface as we don’t put anything in the window sills, but given how soft pine is I do wonder what might add a bit more protection.
We’re now slated for the first floor windows to be replaced and I’m gathering supplies to start the process again. What I’m concerned about first is the kitchen window right above the sink. The current window gets sprinkled with water every time we do dishes, simply from the faucet spray bouncing off dishes. Doubt much would change until we redo the kitchen area and bring the sink down to a standard height, farther away from the window.
Second is the protection aspect of pine. The first floor windows see a lot more activity, mostly from the cats jumping up to stare at the fat squirrels. As much as I am completely confident in my ability to train cats, yeah I’ll just stop. The jumping up will continue and will probably leave its sign of wear and tear.

So the concern is wanting to keep with the look I’ve been doing but not sure how the EM6000 would hold up with fairly frequent water exposure. And second, greater protection.

Words of wisdom from anyone?

thank you

[John TenEyck]

No finish seems to stand up to a motivated cat. Generally they don't bother finished surfaces, but the exception is window sills as my 5 have proven. If someone knows of something, either clear or pigmented, I'm most interested to hear about it too.

With regards to your kitchen window sill EM-6000 should be fine if you wipe it dry after the dishes are done. If that's not your style then you will likely want something more durable. But besides durability I think you are going to want something that can stand up to sunshine with this and all your windows. EM-9300 might be just what you are looking for.

John

[Jeremy Patrick]

The current window that is above the sink is a wood framed Anderson. Royal PITA to wipe down considering everything is wood minus the track it slides in. We’re going with vinyl double casement windows so it will be a nice simple surface right up to the vinyl frame and that of course will be caulked. So wiping down any water spray will be loads easier.

The one thing I was noticing about the 6000 was it seems to be the only yellowing finish. Everything above it is considered non-yellowing unless I’m reading the wrong info. How long does this aspect usually become noticeable? And how much of a difference is noticed between a few layers of 6000 vs 9300 when you consider the project done?
The upstairs windows all have blinds on them so aside from what sun can get through on the sides we can somewhat control sun exposure. Plus if it’s a real scorcher out we tend to keep them closed to help with the AC. I suppose if it really comes down to a need, I could strip the caulk and tape the heck out of the vinyl window and spray on more coats. But I’ll worry about that later.

[John TenEyck]

EM-2000 has an amber tint, too, and will yellow over time. Very good product.

John

[Jeremy Patrick]

ah ok, guess I only saw the numbers above 6000.
But that still makes me wonder, the yellowing over time aspect, is that usually seen in X number of years? It's not like we would be comparing casing from upstairs windows side by side with downstairs. so if there is a little difference overall it may not be terribly noticeable. And in 5 years we may be looking for another house if kid numbers grow.

[John K Jordan]

... The first floor windows see a lot more activity, mostly from the cats jumping up to stare at the fat squirrels. As much as I am completely confident in my ability to train cats, yeah I’ll just stop. The jumping up will continue and will probably leave its sign of wear and tear.
...

I don't have comments about the window construction (our kitchen has 5 adjacent windows on the sink wall), but about the cats. A friend of mine built a cat heaven and I've wanted to duplicate it since.

He put a cat door in the wall leading outside to a screened box maybe 12" deep, 4' wide and 6' high with various shelves, small roof to keep it dry. The box is on the side of the house overlooking a flower garden. The cats would spend a good part of the day perched in their screened-in porch watching the squirrels, rabbits, birds, and butterflies.

JKJ

[Jeremy Patrick]

I've thought of something similar but the way our house is configured that would look very odd. Nice idea though.

[John TenEyck]

There's no way to predict how finish XYZ is going to age with any certainty. The best I can say is that a finish with a 2 component UV stabilizer package will not age for many years, and the wood won't age much either. On the other hand, a finish with neither may age significantly as could the wood underneath. Finish chemistry gives some indication of how they will age. Phenolic resins darken rather quickly, alkyds more slowly, urethanes without a UV package like to yellow, and acrylics and polycarbonates stay clear a long time. Woods like holly tend to stay white, but cherry darkens, walnut lightens, maple yellows, and pine turns orange.

If I were trying to match older existing trim work I would dye or stain the wood to match and use a topcoat with a 2 component UV package. You can't predict the future with any certainty so I'd go for a good match right now and hope for the best. Cherry might be an exception to that approach, but that's one of the few that comes to mind.

John

[Jeremy Patrick]

Great pointers, thanks John.
The upstairs extensions and casing, baseboard were all done last year with lumber milled recently at that point. so the wood will only be a difference of a year or so to what I’ll be starting on this year.
Im guessing the 9300 has the two part stabilizer you refer to, but what if any component does the 6000 have?

If im more interested in finish durability would the 6000 still be fine, but maybe add a few more layers along with the cross linking agent? Haven’t seen too many people talk about that but the TC sites describes it as an increase in durability.
If more for the UV protection then go with the 9300? Or does the 9300 offer both minus the yellowing effect?

[Tom Giacomo]

I did all my windows with pine but used hard maple for the sills.

[Jack Frederick]

We have a 8' bay window over the kitchen sink and yes we get spray from the faucet. We have a soapstone counter top. We built a 1' extension for the window and made a SS backsplash and an 8" SS shelf that meets the window frame. It has worked out really well, as the boss has her knick-knack and plants in that window and we have had no spotting or problems with the wooden frame.