Corner wardrobe help?

[Jakub Wegrzyn]

I'm finishing a master suite remodel, and after the contractors are done, would like to add a built-in wardrobe / walk-in closet solution in a corner of a ~64" x 91" space that lies between the bedroom and the bathroom. I think I have the basic layout worked out (pic attached):

• 4 separate frames to make installation less cumbersome
  
  • Frames sit on bases and don't go quite all the way to the ceiling (essentially following the article "Built-In Basics" from FWW #166)
  
  
• 2 sets of bypass sliding doors
  
  • The left set slides into the right frame to fully open the left frame
  • Both sets slid to the outside allows access to the corner
  • Unfortunately, the dimensions are all non-standard so I can't use pre-made doors
  
  
• In order to more easily access the corner, the vertical walls between the frames are not full depth, and the 3rd frame from the left doesn't have a left side, but rather a full-thickness back

Where I'd appreciate your advice:

1. How to mount the sliding doors?
   
   • Doors hung from a top rail are generally preferable, but I might not have enough structural strength from the plywood boxes because of the last bullet point above. Reinforcing from the ceiling of the space seems like it would be a lot of work (or would it not?), and one of the sides would run parallel to the joists anyway
   • A floor track would provide plenty of support, but increases the risk that the doors would warp under their weight. Do you think that would be an issue?
   
   
2. How to make the sliding doors?
   
   • I'm thinking frame-and-panel with solid wood frame, few intermediate rails, and frosted glass panels rabbeted into the backs. How thin can I make the doors to still keep them structurally sound?
   • However, I haven't completely given up on the idea of flat slab, e.g., if I wanted the wardrobe to blend in to the wall when closed. For that, can I get away with 3/4" MDF? If so, do I need to hang it so it doesn't bend under its own weight?

Thanks in advance

J

Capture.PNG

[Jamie Buxton]

I like hanging the doors on rolling hardware from Johnson Hardware. It is much better than the stuff from your local home center. If your design allows, I'd capture the door bottoms to prevent them from swinging in the breeze.

You say the cabinets don't go quite to the ceiling. Can you run a beam above the cabinet top, and behind that upper piece of trim? It could be a substantial piece of wood, or even steel. That would support the weight of the doors.

If the doors are MDF, and they hang, and if the sheet of MDF arrives at your shop flat, it should stay flat. There's no forces trying to make it bend. However, a better scheme would be to use MDF covered with hardwood veneer. The veneer actually adds a lot of stiffness.

[Wayne Lomman]

I always run sliding robe doors in a low profile floor track and a channel guide at the top. The best floor tracks are a vee groove that is an accurate guide as well as easy to clean. If you do it this way you never have to worry about the overhead structure sagging or anything and you can span any distance. Doors don't bow from standing vertically. There is always another cause.

I agree with Jamie about using mdf. Nothing to add there.

Do you really need the base? It kind of creates a barrier to the walk in feeling if you have to step up. Cheers

[Robert Engel]

Extending a header all the way across will support a top mounted track (which is the way I would go).

Far as door construction, it can be a challenge building a R/S door of that height and keeping it straight. Not impossible, tho.

3/4 MDF is too heavy IMO. 1/2 would be better, but still pretty heavy. Mounting hardware can be an issue.

I would tend to go with a 1/2 quality plywood panel, perhaps trimmed out to simulate a frame&panel.