A how to question about taper cuts on a table saw

[roger wiegand]

I guess I wouldn't use clamps on a TS tapering jig, just screw in a cleat for the angle and one for an end stop and hold it by hand. Clamps would be nice if the pieces were skinny.

[glenn bradley]

About 6:30 in this video can help.

[johnny means]

I guess I wouldn't use clamps on a TS tapering jig, just screw in a cleat for the angle and one for an end stop and hold it by hand. Clamps would be nice if the pieces were skinny.

Not clamping the stick to the jig gets sketchy real quick. It's difficult to hold the jig tight to the fence while simultaneously holding the piece to the jig.

[Edwin Santos]

I guess I wouldn't use clamps on a TS tapering jig, just screw in a cleat for the angle and one for an end stop and hold it by hand. Clamps would be nice if the pieces were skinny.

If you have confirmed for yourself that the toggle clamps are outside the path of the blade, then what is the concern about using them on a TS tapering jig?

I will confess to erring to the side of being safety oriented even if it slows me down. Many times when using a TS jig that involves toggle clamps, I will include a miter slot runner to eliminate the possibility that the jig can do anything other than slide forward and back. However here we're talking about a 5ft length so I would ride it along the fence and consider a featherboard or two to keep the jig from drifting. Of course, good outfeed support would be necessary. With these precautions I think you'd be safe using toggle clamps.

Johnny Means' photo is showing a slider saw setup which is very safe for pulling the jig back and setting up the next piece, but not all of us have such a posh saw.

Edwin

[Johnny Barr]

Is this the sort of thing you're after? Movable fence with hold downs and a runner to allow movement through the miter slot.?
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[roger wiegand]

Not clamping the stick to the jig gets sketchy real quick. It's difficult to hold the jig tight to the fence while simultaneously holding the piece to the jig.

Then by all means use clamps. I certainly would with skinny boards, I was thinking we were talking wider boards here that would be relatively easy to hold. I've just been doing a lot of template routing for some G&G style tables I'm building. Moving the clamps around gets tedious and some of my templates are starting to get pretty ratty with all the screw holes from moving the clamps. I suppose I shouldn't be so cheap and buy more toggle clamps!

[Mike Wilkins]

Faced with a similar problem a couple of years ago working on a project for a decorative back drop.
I used my Festool track saw with the 2 shorter rails joined together for the long taper cuts in plywood.
The extra-long table saw sled seems like a safer alternative for numerous cuts.

[Nick Decker]

Not clamping the stick to the jig gets sketchy real quick. It's difficult to hold the jig tight to the fence while simultaneously holding the piece to the jig.

Another factor when tapering thin sticks is clamping them as close to the ends of the sticks as possible. If you don't, the ends will vibrate like hell. Just finished some spindly legs for a hall table and learned that the scary way.

[David Buchhauser]

Is this the sort of thing you're after? Movable fence with hold downs and a runner to allow movement through the miter slot.?
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Johnny - that's a nice looking sled! I think that the OP could probably make a longer version to suite his length requirement and it would work just fine.

David