Results 1 to 9 of 9

Thread: Drill Press Motor Help

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Shenandoah Valley
    Posts
    79

    Drill Press Motor Help

    Last night when I turned on my drill press, the motor hummed, but didn't turn the spindle, and then white smoke came out of the little connection box cover that attaches to the side of the motor. I opened the box and found the wires that connect the switch to the motor burned and melted its wire nut. I removed the wire nut and found the copper ends of the wires burned black. I've attached a picture. Before I go futzing around with this, does anybody have any guesses as to what might have caused this to happen and where I should concentrate my attention.

    This is a bit distressing because I just spent the month of January fixing this machine, replacing its broken rack so that I can actually raise and lower the table, removing all rust, and repainting it. To do all of that, I had to remove the motor and then reconnect it. When I first reconnected it, it hummed and got quite hot but then it worked just fine and has been working normally for the last several weeks.

    Drill Press Wires.jpg

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Central North Carolina
    Posts
    1,411
    Are you certain that the motor is wired correctly for the voltage that you connected it to?

    Does the motor have a starting capacitor (it likely does)? Starting capacitors are the most frequent cause of smoke and starting problems.

    If you truly let the magic smoke out of the motor windings, it's time to go shopping for a new motor.

    Charley

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    West Lafayette, IN
    Posts
    4,924
    Charley nailed it. Check wiring, capacitor, and if they check out its time for a new motor. Luckily DP motors have common mounts, are pretty cheap, and you likely can find a used one on CL.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Ottawa, ON Canada
    Posts
    1,215
    I, too, think Charles hit the nail on the head. It sounds like you have the motor wired for 220 input and you are only putting 110 into it.
    Grant
    Ottawa ON

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Shenandoah Valley
    Posts
    79
    Thanks for the advice and diagnosis, Charley. I rewired it just as it was when I undid it when I took it apart. It had always worked fine before (I can't imagine that this thing was ever wired for 220). I stripped those wires and reconnected them, and everything is now working as before. No smoke, no excessive heat, and normal power. So, who knows? I'll keep in an eye on it, and like you say, a used 1/2 hp dp motor shouldn't be too hard to find.

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Reich View Post
    ...I stripped those wires and reconnected them, and everything is now working as before...
    Then all you had was a bad connection at the wire nut. You don't need a new motor.
    "Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Central North Carolina
    Posts
    1,411
    It's not a good idea to use wire nuts on machinery. Over time the machine vibration will loosen them and if the wires aren't twisted together tightly the joint can overheat or fall apart, with a voltage carrying hot wire touching the case. I crimp ring lugs on the ends and bolt them together. Then cover the whole splice with several layers (about 3-5) of electrical tape. Then tuck them inside the case and replace the cover.

    Charley

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Somewhere in the Land of Lincoln
    Posts
    953
    Quote Originally Posted by Charles Lent View Post
    It's not a good idea to use wire nuts on machinery. Over time the machine vibration will loosen them and if the wires aren't twisted together tightly the joint can overheat or fall apart, with a voltage carrying hot wire touching the case. I crimp ring lugs on the ends and bolt them together. Then cover the whole splice with several layers (about 3-5) of electrical tape. Then tuck them inside the case and replace the cover.

    Charley
    Actually these wire nuts are as good of connection as you will find. If you install them correctly they will last forever. I know this first hand. We use them on a vibrating work head and if they stand up under the vibration they will take anything your drill press could ever throw at them. You would have to go to an electrical supply house to get them. Here is a link.
    zoro.com/ideal-mechanical-conn-set-screw-10-18-awg-pk10-30-1294g/i/G2092194/feature-product?gclid=Cj0KCQjwtMvlBRDmARIsAEoQ8zRPRVhnXMBp 0PYJ_g0pL0oo_og1z2ImRRVSU3Lqp00NGJ8cWdpbOisaAg0uEA Lw_wcB

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Shenandoah Valley
    Posts
    79
    Thanks for the additional advice, Charley and Ronald. I will secure these wires with something much better than a wire nut. I very much appreciate the help.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •