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Thread: Powermatic 65 or Jet JTAS-10XL

  1. #46
    Unisaws are excellent. So are the Beismeyer fences.
    "Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."

  2. #47
    Quote Originally Posted by andy bessette View Post
    Unisaws are excellent. So are the Beismeyer fences.
    I would be all over that...seriously. I have a 3 HP Uni and it will handle everything I throw at it.

  3. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gayan De Silva View Post
    Just to add some some more food for thought - this machine just popped up on my local CL. Thoughts?

    https://stlouis.craigslist.org/tls/d...868021723.html
    Also a great saw...very similar to the Jet.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  4. #49
    Anyone know if the cast iron top (does it have wings?) is detachable from the cabinet? Only way itíll fit into my basement.

  5. #50
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    If you are asking about the Unisaw then yes the wings detach. In fact I took my Unisaw apart to move it by myself when I bought it. I took the 2 wings off. I took the motor out. With the saw apart I was able to move each part by myself. It would be easy to move in your basement. If you are real strong then you might be able to move the top as a whole piece. I am not that strong so I took the top apart.

    PS
    If it is not clear the complete top was removed for me to move the Unisaw.
    Last edited by lee cox; 04-17-2019 at 2:24 PM.

  6. #51
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    To be clear, the entire top removes with 4 (or 5) bolts, not just the wings. Youíll likely want to give it a tune up and alignment, so it makes sense to take it off.

    Donít bother removing the motor unless you plan to go through it and check/replace bearings. Without the top the saw is easy to move with a hand truck. Lower the motor and tilt it to get the CoG as low as you can.

  7. #52
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    If the actual saw top is removed from a cabinet saw, it's critical to be sure that any shims (they look like washers, but are very precise in thickness) at the mounting bolts are preserved and identified so they go back in the same place. Even so, careful attention to alignment should then be taken when the top is re-installed. Ideally, you don't want to remove the top if you can avoid it...more people to help is a better solution, IMHO. Removing the wings, fence system...even the motor...no problem.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  8. #53
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    I agree. Remove the wings and motor. It becomes very manageable with on e person and a 2 wheel dolly.

  9. #54
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    Different strokes for different folks I guess, or maybe Iím just lucky in the shin department. Iíve restored 3 cabinet saws and owned a total of 5 and have never seen a shim.

  10. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cary Falk View Post
    I agree. Remove the wings and motor. It becomes very manageable with on e person and a 2 wheel dolly.
    Have you really bumped a TS with a top down the stairs by yourself? You are either a lot stronger than I or worry less about loosing it down the steps, or both. I assume basement = stairs.

  11. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matt Day View Post
    Have you really bumped a TS with a top down the stairs by yourself? You are either a lot stronger than I or worry less about loosing it down the steps, or both. I assume basement = stairs.
    I don't know if I am stronger then you or not. I probably worry less about it then you though because I have moved some pretty big stuff by myself. It seems like all my heavy stuff moves upstairs. Down stairs would be a blessing. A unisaw cabinet, trunnion and top weighs maybe 250-300 lbs? I moved one in and out of a pickup bed.

  12. #57
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    Also a great saw...very similar to the Jet.
    They both have a top and a blade. Similar only if the Unisaw was made in Asia. The troubles I have found with Asian imports are, besides overall lower levels of workmanship, items such as motors and motor controls are second rate and can be expected to fail early.
    "Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."

  13. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matt Day View Post
    Different strokes for different folks I guess, or maybe I’m just lucky in the shin department. I’ve restored 3 cabinet saws and owned a total of 5 and have never seen a shim.
    There were no shims with my Unisaw. I have a 3 hp old Baldor motor in my Unisaw. It was a lot easier to remove the motor and top loading it in my big pickup truck.

  14. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by andy bessette View Post
    They both have a top and a blade. Similar only if the Unisaw was made in Asia. The troubles I have found with Asian imports are, besides overall lower levels of workmanship, items such as motors and motor controls are second rate and can be expected to fail early.
    That may have been true 20 years ago it is not so much anymore. It also varies from tool to tool. There is nothing magical about a Uni. Why are soo many broken and need parts? I had one and restored it. It needed parts. I sold it and bought an import and couldn't be more happier. I also have a" Gold standard" Powermatic 1200 drill press that I restored. The fit and finish was so bad that it looked like a 3 year old put it together and panted it after assembled. To each his own.

  15. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by andy bessette View Post
    They both have a top and a blade. Similar only if the Unisaw was made in Asia. The troubles I have found with Asian imports are, besides overall lower levels of workmanship, items such as motors and motor controls are second rate and can be expected to fail early.
    Sorry, Andy...I have to respectfully disagree. I've owned both Delta and Jet, for example, and there was no "lower level of workmanship" nor low quality motors and controls. Yes, there are absolutely poorly made imports but that's not universal. All of the machines that the OP has asked about are quality products, IMHO.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

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