Sometimes, the thickness being clamped does not allow this. I want 1/4" of threads showing after the bolt up.
Sometimes, the thickness being clamped does not allow this. I want 1/4" of threads showing after the bolt up.
That's a good question! It may depend on what you are doing, how you work, the urgency, and how far you live from the perfect bolt store.
For me, I will often cut bolts and machine screws since I keep a big stock on hand but don't have one the right length for what I'm building or fixing. Cutting one is a quick and simple operation. Driving and shopping and finding exactly the right bolt is not.
Some other reasons I cut bolts and machine screws:
Fixing something at 10pm an night, need to use the equipment in the morning, and the only bolt I have is too long.
Making a stud threaded on both ends.
Welding a bolt head to something to make a very short stud.
Trimming excess to fit in a tight spot.
Reducing the length of a set screw to fit a special application. (I grind these shorter rather than cut)
JKJ
Thanks for that tip John.
& yes - it does run a lot more that the basic thread cutting kit I picked up at HF. That ran me about $10 on sale about 15 years ago. Since I've used it a total of three times, I think the cost was appropriate.
Re. The Dremel wheels....I found them too fragile for any real work - such as cutting off old toilet bolts. Any minor deflection of the spinning disk causes them to shatter - sometimes explosively. My wife was standing next to me & got hit in the forehead by a piece - that's what sold me on the idea of a cheap angle grinder.
Anyhow, I'll keep an eye out (bad choice of words! ) for a thread cleaner.
"Life is what happens to you while you're busy making other plans." - John Lennon
If you are not aware, Dremel sells two types of the small abrasive cutoff wheels, one about twice as thick as the other. They also offer fiberglass-reinforced cutoff wheels that won't fly apart.
And yes, you can't flex the small wheels while spinning, but with a little care it's not a problem. Safety glasses, of course, for bystanders too.
I probably use the cutoff wheels more than other bits - keep one on one Dremel all the time for precision cutting and sharpening bandsaw blades. I use angle grinders for larger things.
I also used the little cutoff Dremel wheels a lot when I had a pile of motorcycles in the '70s. The engine casings and such were often put together with philips head bolts/machine screws which would strip easily. I used a little cutoff wheel to cut a straight slot in what was left of the head and go at it with a wide flat-bladed screwdriver bit in an hand-held impact driver. Worked every time. At that time aftermarket was selling replacement bolts with hex heads.
JKJ
Why is it that - the bad toilet bolts always seems to be the one next to a wall, where you can hardly see & you have to bend like a pretzel to get at? <----why Dremel wheels snap!
Yeah I've tried both and the fiberglass ones also. I'll still take the HF grinder any day over the Dremel.
"Life is what happens to you while you're busy making other plans." - John Lennon
I have a hack saw and a bench grinder that will deal with this (and has).
Steve,
For me, it's a matter of convenience. For 10-24 and below, I just keep a large quantity of long bolts on hand and cut them to size. It only takes a minute with my handy-dandy shear to cut a small bolt to the size I want. Going to the store to get one bolt is time-consuming and kind of annoying. That's what prompted me to start this thread in the first place. I would love that same convenience with 1/4" to 1/2" bolts. It just struck me that there ought to be someone out there willing to take my money.
Presently I do what pretty much everyone else does: Thread a nut onto the bolt, hacksaw it to length, grind the end flat, chamfer it a bit, remove the nut to chase the threads, and clean it up with a triangle file if needed. Since I'm sort of lazy, I keep a nice variety of lengths of larger bolts around.
Sure, I get it. I've been known to cut screws at times to. In my previous ag career I used tremendous piles of bolts. They are wear items on some machines, to the tune of 50# each time sweeps need replaced, nearly 1000#/year usually. This ended up making the need for a size I didn't have a constant issue. I went the large inventory system rather than make them fit route though. I had Fastenal stock a large bolt bin with a constant supply of all possible normal metric and SAE bolts in grade 5 and 8. This made for an impressive cabinet, and was surprisingly affordable. It also illustrated something quite well, that we used several sizes extensively, but that probably 80% of the bin never got used. To that end, if you wanted to do a scaled back inventory system you could probably get a surprisingly small assortment that covers 99% of your needs.
The main reason that I resist cutting bolts is that the corrosion proof plating on the bolt is compromised each time one is cut creating a rusty end quite quickly. I hate that, it looks amateurish in my opinion. Of course it's not a problem in all instances but pretty much all of what I cut bolts for.