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Thread: Minimax MM16

  1. #1

    Minimax MM16

    Hello,
    I am looking for some help with some basic bandsaw knowledge. Specifically, properly tensioning the blade. I do not have any experience setting up a saw. My experience is limited to using a bandsaw after it has been in operation and set up by someone else. I took the plunge and purchased a Minimax MM16. The instruction manual leaves a lot to be desired. Additionally, the gauge that is attached is supposed to give you a guide as to proper tensioning but I believe it is of little use. I am attempting to properly tension a 1/2" blade and could use some advice. Thanks, Jack

  2. #2
    Jack
    You are correct that the gauge is of little use. Your saw is capable of putting way more tension a a 1/2" blade than you need do proceed carefully.
    I assume you are aware of how to properly track the blade and setup the guides. You can use the" flutter "method to rough in the tension.
    Just increase the tension gradually until the blade cuts well

  3. #3
    Jack,

    Not trying to be argumentative, but I disagree with both opinions that the gauge is of little use. I think it is both useful and repeatable once you have an established tension point.

    Did you buy your saw new? If so, then the rep should be able to provide some guidance.

    I own the MM20 (s500P).
    This is a cliff's notes version of what the rep Sam Blasco has told me - Assuming you do not own a tension meter, install the blade, find a point 6" from the upper wheel. Stand with your shoulders parallel to the wheel. Pushing sidewasy with your right arm crossing your body (so you don't lean in to the test), you want to see 1/8"-1/4" of deflection pushing with moderate pressure, no body weight behind your finger. Track the blade where you want it on the wheel. With no guides set or zero clearance dust block installed, turn on the machine and observe for flutter. If you see any, add more tension with the saw running until the blade stops fluttering.

    Set your guides, thrust bearings and make a test cut on a 6" resaw. Does it cut easy, straight, no wander? If yes, then you have found a good starting point for tension. Make a few more cuts to be sure you feel good about this tension point and if you do, make a pencil mark on your gauge and now you can now reliably come back to that tension point whenever you want. I have a mark on my gauge for a 1/4", 1/2" and 1" blade. In this way the gauge is very useful.

    Very important that you do this test with a sharp, trusted blade. Not one with a weld issue or near the end of it's life. Also, tension is subjective. Some people use more or less tension depending on the job they are doing. Personally I don't think you need as much tension for a rip cut through 4/4 stock as you do for a 8" resaw. A blade will cut well at different tensions so there is not one narrow precise bulls-eye that you need to try and hit that will work for all operations, at least in my opinion.

    Beware of using the "flutter test" by itself. A blade will go in and out of flutter at different points. So I suggest deflection followed by observation for flutter.

    Hope this helps you, congrats on your saw acquisition. It's a very well made saw that should serve you well.
    Edwin

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,688
    I kinda agree with Edwin. Initially, yes...there can be challenges determining what is the right tension for a given blade and it's not just based on size, but also type/manufacturer...but once one is beyond that point, the machine's tensioning read-out is repeatable. I marked mine with a few scribed lines years ago in that respect.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  5. #5
    Rob, Thanks for the information. I was not aware of the "flutter" but have since found it online. I will begin there and proceed.

  6. #6
    Edwin,
    Thanks for taking the time to share all of this information. I will go from there beginning with the 1/8" to 1/4" amount of deflection then proceed with the flutter method. I imagine it takes experience and repeated attempts. Again, thanks for the help. Jack

  7. #7
    Thanks Jim. Once I have tried a few times and get a little more comfortable I will mark the gauge for repeatability. Jack

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Lewiston, Idaho
    Posts
    28,504
    I use the flutter method on my MM-16 with good results. The key, as in most things, is to get some experience. Practice, adjust the tracking, tension and then do some cuts. Then detension, take a break, come back, and repeat the previous sentence's recommendation.

    I like my MM-16!
    Ken

    So much to learn, so little time.....

  9. #9
    Ken, Thanks and in my case good advice. That is have some patience (something I lack at times). Jack

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Pittsburgh, PA
    Posts
    868
    Just a thought, as the OP stated he is new to bandsaw tuneup.

    I think the MM bandsaws are designed with flat wheels and for the blade teeth to overhang the wheel edge. If so, the OP should keep this in mind as much of what is available, regarding bandsaw set up, applies to crowned wheel bandsaws. Could be confusing until one is aware of this.

    Just a thought, and perhaps someone can confirm if the MM16 is indeed a flat wheeled bandsaw...

    Bill
    Too much to do...Not enough time...life is too short!

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Lewiston, Idaho
    Posts
    28,504
    Bill the MM-16 is, in fact, a flat topped wheel with no crowns. Thus, I run my blades with the teeth hanging over the edge except for the narrow blades (1/4") which I do center on the wheel.
    Ken

    So much to learn, so little time.....

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    WNY
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    9,648
    Jack, for the cost of a cheap dial gauge and an hour of your time you can measure the tension in any BS blade you want. Here's one I built based on a YouTube video I saw.





    It has a 12" gage length which would work well on your MM16, too. With just a little simple math you can easily find the tension in any blade. To use it you lower the tension in the blade to zero, so the blade is snug on the wheels and w/o slack. Put the meter on the blade, tighten the clamps snug, and set the dial gage to zero. Now add tension to the blade. As you do the dial gage will reflect the stretch in the blade. OK, now the math. For every 0.001" the dial gage moves, the tension in the blade increases by 2500 psi:

    Young's Modulus = Stress/Strain

    Young's Modulus of steel = 30,000,000 psi

    Strain = Dial gage/12" gage length

    Stress = 30,000,000 x 0.001/12 = 2500 psi.

    I used the meter check the tension of a 1" blade vs. the on board tension indicator:






    The dial gage showed 0.010" corresponding to a tension of 25,000 psi.

    You don't need a tension meter to get good performance from your bandsaw, but using one will allow you to put just a little science behind determining how to set your saw's tension. However, if you plan to run a carbide blade on your saw then I strongly suggest you use a meter to calibrate your saw before doing so. Carbide blades need 25 K psi or more for optimal performance, and running one at lower tension may compromise both performance and life.

    John
    Attached Images Attached Images

  13. #13
    John,
    Thanks for the information. Wow, although initially seems a little daunting. After reviewing several times I may be inclined to search for the information on line. I would like to add a bit of certainty to this. Thanks again. Jack

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,688
    Jack, honestly...don't over-think it or fret about it too much!
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

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