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Thread: Glue Recommendation for Door

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    fayetteville Arkansas
    Posts
    631

    Glue Recommendation for Door

    I've been building a 1-3/4"x 32" x82" cherry door for the entry from our garage into the kitchen. I pretty much use Titebond II on most projects. Not sure if this is the right glue for this project. I am also concerned about having a longer open time as I would like to glue it all at one time instead of sub assemblies. This door will not be exposed to weather. Suggestions on the best glue for this?

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  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Astoria, N.Y.
    Posts
    317
    Titebond II Extend would be my choice.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    New England, in a town on the way to nowhere
    Posts
    538
    The titebond will be fine for your application; For longer open time do your glue up when your area is cool- <=60 degrees. You'll have to move a little quickly but you'll have ample time to clamp, square up and re clamp

  4. #4
    If you are organized and work fast T2 will work. Even if you do the glueup in one session you will be assembling the center stile and center and bottom rails first, then joining the outer stiles and rails.

    For more working time T1 Extend is what I keep on hand; The water resistance of T2 Extend is unnecessary in this situation, plus the solids settle out of that stuff and need remixing prior to use.

    For up to an hour assembly time, I use epoxy. It doesn't tack off like Titebond1 or 2 if you are working slowly. It can be unnerving to have a joint in a large assembly seize up while working several clamps alone.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    WNY
    Posts
    9,749
    That's a low environmental stress application so I don't see any concerns beyond assembly. I think TB II Extend would be a good choice.

    As an aside, I just finished cutting down an interior 6' 10" door in a house built in 1927 to 62". I'll skip the details on how I disassembled the frame, but it was joined with 5/8" dowels. There was so little glue used that it almost seemed like the only thing holding it together was friction and finish. But it was very well made, mahogany veneer over edge glued Douglas fir cores and still nice and tight. Interior doors don't need a lot to keep them together. I used T-88 epoxy to glue it back together. I like the really long open time, gap filling ability, and because I didn't have any TB II Extend.

    John

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Central North Carolina
    Posts
    1,830
    Be careful of possible fire code problems when changing a door that separates a garage from a living space. The fire codes require that the garage and connection to the house meet a code level to prevent a garage fire from quickly getting into the house. The door between them must have a certified fire rating as do the walls and ceiling of the garage. Make certain that your door replacement does not violate this code before doing it. Talk to your local building inspector first before doing this. Your present door will likely have a fire code rating on a label usually attached to the hinged edge of the door so this is another place to check.

    Charley
    Last edited by Charles Lent; 04-07-2019 at 8:57 PM.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Cache Valley, Utah
    Posts
    1,723
    I built 18 interior stain grade alder doors last year. I used epoxy on all of them to take advantage of the open time.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    fayetteville Arkansas
    Posts
    631
    Fellows, thanks for the good suggestions. Don't know why but for some reason I did not know TII comes in an Extend formulation. I haven't seen it a local box stores so I may need to order it. Had not thought about the fire code issue. We are out in a rural area with no building jurisdiction but something to think about for safety's sake.

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