Walnut/Maple Writing Desk - Finishing Options

[Nate Secrist]

Hi - my son and I are building a small writing desk for him.
Walnut legs and Top
Maple aprons

I haven't done much finishing for Walnut

I have finished Maple a few times. I don't like BLO or Tung Oil on Maple - it makes it too "yellowy" - I like a more natural look.

We won't attach the top until we are done finishing, so just the Walnut legs and the Maple aprons are attached currently.

My question is whether or not we can find one finishing schedule that we can use on both the Walnut and the Maple?
Or - will we need to tape off the Maple while we finish the Walnut and tape off the Walnut while we finish the Maple?

I would like to see some pictures or read about your finishing schedules for one finish that might work for both.
The walnut has some "blueness" to it - so I would like to not put too much "stain" on the Walnut, but would like to bring out the brown tones.

Feel free to post pictures or finishing schedules that you have had good luck with!

Thanks Alot

Nate

[Jamie Buxton]

For maple, I don't like finishes which are yellow, or turn yellow in time. In my experience, that includes all solvent-based finishes. Because of that, I use a waterborne acrylic/urethane finish on maple.

For walnut, the waterbornes leave the color washed out or blue. I use solvent-based varnish on walnut.

If that table is all glued up, you have a challenging situation. I'd mask the walnut, and spray the maple. Then I'd unmask the walnut to brush or wipe varnish on.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

Unlike Jamie, I do like the color imparted by the oil on Maple, so, the last major project that I built with Maple I used Waterlox Original Sealer finish. As Jamie said, however, it will indeed alter the color, and, if you are not partial to that, you had better follow his regiment (or something similar). I am not as sophisticated and I do not spray, so, when I want something that does not impart a color, then I use General FInishes High Performance Poly. They do have one that adds a color, so, if you wanted to stay water based and still have your color :-)

[Carl Beckett]

I have done a few pieces that are walnut/maple. I generally prefer the oil based, especially on the walnut - agree with Jamie, looks washed out to me and lack of richness/depth. But as mentioned this changes the tone of the color.

On two pieces I used the Target waterbase finish.

One of these is a chair with a walnut slat on the back, a high wear area in use. Over the years the waterbase wore and left small white streaks in the grain of the wood, which really stands out against the walnut. I do not like it sam I am. Will see if I can snap a pic. Did not have this with the oil based products.

[Derek Cohen]

For maple, I don't like finishes which are yellow, or turn yellow in time. In my experience, that includes all solvent-based finishes. Because of that, I use a waterborne acrylic/urethane finish on maple.

For walnut, the waterbornes leave the color washed out or blue. I use solvent-based varnish on walnut.

If that table is all glued up, you have a challenging situation. I'd mask the walnut, and spray the maple. Then I'd unmask the walnut to brush or wipe varnish on.

My sentiments as well. But I would do it differently.

Mask off the walnut and finish the Maple first. I have had excellent results from wiping on a coat of blond, dewaxed Shellac (as a sealer), and then finishing with General Finishes Satin water-based poly, also wiped on (using a microfibre cloth). Wipe on, wipe off. Rub back with grey Scotch mesh between coats. Do about 4 -5 coats. The finish is clear, does not yellow, and looks hand rubbed.

Now seal off the Maple and stain/oil the Walnut. It is far less likely to bleed on the Maple this way around.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Michelle Rich]

my go to for walnut has always been Danish oil. Walnut and Danish were made for each other. In my mind nothing else makes walnut look as great. Danish does have resins, so it is tough enough for your desk. As for maple, I have never used danish on it, but I suspect it would darken it a bit

[Lee Schierer]

Just be aware that the nice dark chocolate color you see now will gradually get lighter due to exposure to light. The "yellowing" effect is the wood changing color due to light exposure not all related to the type of finish that was applied.

[Stan Calow]

To "warm up" walnut, I like to use amber or garnet shellac. But also agree with Michelle that danish oil (Watco Dark Walnut) is a good look, enhancing the contrast with the maple. Like Lee said, maple will yellow somewhat on its own with age.

[Phil Mueller]

Clear shellac is my go to for maple. Like Derek, I would mask the walnut, use shellac for the maple, then mask the maple and use watco and a top finish for the walnut.

[John TenEyck]

Arm-R-Seal on curly maple:




I did these handrails over 10 years ago. After 5 or 6 years I saw them again and they had not aged; still nice and white.


Arm-R-Seal on an air dried live edge walnut slab:



John

[Nate Secrist]

Hi Michelle,
Which “flavor” of Danish Oil do you like to use on Walnut?
Do you use Watco Natural, or there is Light Walnut, Medium Walnut and Dark Walnut colors also?
Which is your favorite?

Thanks

[Phil Mueller]

After seeing John’s post, it reminded me that I’ve done walnut and maple boxes with Arm-R-Seal and as John shows, the maple didn’t seem to yellow and the walnut popped nicely.