Applying mitered trim around box - Tips / Tricks ?

[Marc Jeske]

Hoping to reduce my labor time installing the top and bottom mitered trim on my Caskets.

It's just Pine strips 2-3" wide ripped from 3/4" S4S stock.

I use 1 1/4" brad nailer and Titebond thick no run glue.

Specifically I am wanting to speed up my cutting to length and fitting.

I feel somewhat awkward at times like tripping over myself is best way to put it...

I mean not that bad, but I KNOW it could be done more efficiently.

Suggestions ?

Thank you, Marc

Caskets Two Brenda 4-17-18 Black camera 038.jpgCaskets Two Brenda 4-17-18 Black camera 019.jpg

[Brian Holcombe]

How are doing it currently?

Also, what’s your budget for improvements.

[Charles Lent]

Yes, how are you doing it currently.

I work my way around the box, cutting and fitting each piece as I go and temporarily fitting each piece so I can match up the corners for the next piece to be cut perfectly. If you can mark and make accurate cuts, this doesn't take very long. Fitting each corner joint as I go and temporarily securing it so I can accurately fit the next piece to it allows me to mark for the cut on it's opposite end very accurately. Then if I cut the opposite end perfectly I can then attach it temporarily. Having a scrap cut so it can act as the mating piece for the first corner helps. I replace it with the last piece when it is being fitted. When all sides have been cut and secured temporarily, I then go back and glue /nail all pieces, removing only one at a time, if gluing. No two boxes are ever perfectly built to dimension or perfectly square, so I've found that this method works best. I do the same thing when applying trim in a room, fitting one piece to the other at each corner, although when trimming a room I cope the inside corners because it's easier to get a tight fit. For outside corners that aren't perfectly square, it's best to use a corner angle finder gauge to measure the corner angle and then make minor adjustments to the miter saw for each cut.

If you will be making many boxes of exactly the same size, and you have a fixture to clamp them together for gluing that makes every corner perfectly square, then you could pre-cut the pieces for many boxes with 45 degree ends and then just attach them. In my world I rarely see any corners of boxes or buildings that are perfectly built to dimension or square, so every corner is a custom fit.

Charley

[Jeff Davies]

You might consider using 2x2 , making a frame, and then attaching it to the TOP of the sides. this would eliminate much of the accuracy needed and it would not matter if the inside overhung a bit. Nailed or pocket screwed , it would not necessarily need to be glued. This could work for the bottom as well.
Another variation would be 1x2 in the same configuration. I used this on hundreds of tables and cabinets with a shaped edge. The big idea was to be able to slip the miters in or out slightly for a perfect but quick fit.
You might also consider omitting the corner trim. A lot of guys would much rather see a clean and sanded butt joint with a little end grain, than the "look i'm hiding a crumby joint" corner trim. Or get a dovetail jig. people love dovetails. Regards, J J Davies

[robert wiggins]

I'm failing to see how the corner moulding and trim work in conjunction with each other. In the picture it appears the trim is on top of the corner moulding. But my eyes aren't like they were when a teenager.

I despise miters because they usually never stay perfect if they were originally. I think I'd be going for but joint trim with the end grain showing on the ends of the casket and the corner moulding between the upper and lower trim.

[Bill Orbine]

For eight trim pieces, cut all the miters one end leaving each piece slightly longer in length for the other end to be mitered later. Mark all eight pieces for the fit as well as to which sides, top or bottom. To cut on miter saw, with a sacrificial fence, align the tick mark of each piece (doing one piece at a time) with the kerf on the sacrificial fence. Cut all the pieces first and then bring the pieces back to position on box when you marked them. With a little practice at this method, you be able have cut all the pieces to proper length once without the need to sneak up on the cut.

I do a lot of this for beaded frames, window glass sticking, panel moldings.....anything that's in larger quantity.

[Marc Jeske]

OK... I did not answer "How I currently do it" cause my brain would have exploded w the long winded answer typed by my two finger hen pecking technique.

I have carefully read responses.

We did it today on two units...

I actually did not use my tape measure even once...

Rather it was more of a pre mitred over length pieces used as in situ usable story poles w spacers of the same material w lauan "Flag" length stops glued to them and marking w a fine mechanical pencil.

A situation where some would have used the razor marking method, fine pencil was fine.

Kindoff a in situ scribing to length idea.

Worked pretty good...

Doing this specific operation will improve on next units.

I am utilizing a dozen of the clamps linked below.

Use them to hold trims in place during dry fitting, then brad nail for glue to dry.

After looking at all comp's... VERY happy w these, recommend these specific ones when proper open size is selected.

I'm doing better now, will improve, think I'm doin ok now.

Thank you all, Marc

https://www.zoro.com/irwin-quick-gri...00/i/G4055116/

[Marc Jeske]

I'm failing to see how the corner moulding and trim work in conjunction with each other. In the picture it appears the trim is on top of the corner moulding. But my eyes aren't like they were when a teenager.

I despise miters because they usually never stay perfect if they were originally. I think I'd be going for but joint trim with the end grain showing on the ends of the casket and the corner moulding between the upper and lower trim.

So, I have thought about this option of ?possibly? better to do butts.

I make two grades of caskets...

The high grade is in the images I posted...

Will post lower grade made of local 19% 1x6's

I have been mitering those... entire unit aprox 10% MC... made of purchased narrow lamello edge glued panels.

I also take extra make to make the lids differently to stay flat w humidity changes.

The more Rustic basic "Plain Pine Box"one is butted. Entire unit approx sub "19%" MC local Yard stock.

But here's the issue w this...

SOME of my sales are buried in dirt within a week... purchased "at need".

But the others are kept in potentially uncontrolled storage indefinately.

I DO STRONGLY advise to my pre need buyers to store in conditioned ambient...But i have no control over that.

Here's the point -

I have never seen one of my mitered OR butted units after months of storage.

Should I be doing butted for ALL of my units to ensure best long term appearance on the uncontrolled humidity long term storage ones ?

I believe the psyche of MY market does not mandate the higher grade look of the miters.

A preference for some... but If I was all butts I do not think I would lose any sales... I just like them to look pretty as I can... A slightly more honorable sendoff.

Marc

[Marc Jeske]

The vertical corner molding of my upper grade hides the all the sins of a fast easy yet strong carcass build.

Marc

[Marc Jeske]

Basic model -- made of local yard sub 19% 1x6 non edge glued - 75 cents/ bd ft... my glued up 10% panels cost me $2.00/ bd ft... but they are also wide belt sanded... no planer ripple that I have to sand out on the 1x6's...

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