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Thread: Floor electrical outlets

  1. #46
    Here is the bottom of the alignment plug. I made a plugs for the ears and flange recesses.
    PlugOutHole.jpg
    To cut the floor holes, I marked the center of the hole with a 3/8 hole drilled from the basement to be sure the hole was not on a joist. I used the template to mark the hole outline and ran a washer and marker around the inside of the hole to mark the waste to be removed by jig saw. Then, I drilled a hole in each corner and cut out the waste.
    MarkedLocation.jpgOUtlnedHole.jpgDrilledCorners.jpgJigsawWaste.jpg

    More to come. I have to go play with the grandkids.

  2. #47
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Toronto Ontario
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    11,277
    Yes it is, often referred to in the trade as a “monument”….Regards, Rod

  3. #48
    Quote Originally Posted by Rod Sheridan View Post
    Yes it is, often referred to in the trade as a “monument”….Regards, Rod
    Did I miss something?

  4. #49
    Quote Originally Posted by Thomas Wilson View Post
    Did you have 240v outlets in the floor?
    TW

    A rather slow reply on my part, but yes. Used 20A genuine Twistlock® receptacles for the 240V ones, in the main shop there is a duplex receptacle, & a 20A 125V Twistlock®, in the back room, there is a duplex receptacle & a 240V Twistlock®, all 120V receptacles are GFCI protected.

  5. #50
    Quote Originally Posted by Rollie Meyers View Post
    A rather slow reply on my part, but yes. Used 20A genuine Twistlock® receptacles for the 240V ones, in the main shop there is a duplex receptacle, & a 20A 125V Twistlock®, in the back room, there is a duplex receptacle & a 240V Twistlock®, all 120V receptacles are GFCI protected.
    Thanks Rollie. I stumbled into the same choices. I am really looking forward to not having extension cords strung across the floor.

  6. #51
    This post will bring the thread up to the current status. I am awaiting the electrician to come finish the wiring connections at receptacle and at the panel. Wires are in place but not connected on either end.

    The rest of the installation went pretty quickly and smoothly. I put packing tape on the template to make removal of the double-sided tape easier. Then, I put some squares of XFasten double sided tape (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BBL4JXJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) to hold the template in place. I also knelt on the template while routing. I had no issues with the template slipping or with removing the template and tape. I used fresh tape for each hole/recess. I also vacuumed carefully before taping template down.

    Here is a picture of the template with the tape applied to show the pattern. The orange backing paper has not been peeled off. The adhesive is white and sort of thick. It conforms to the slight unevenness of prefinished flooring. To remove, one corner of the template can be lifted. The tape residue can be rolled off without leaving a trace on the flooring or template.

    TapedUp.jpg
    Here, I am ready to rout the box hole. The blue tape on the corners helps to align the template after jigsawing out the waste.
    ReadytoRout.jpg

    Repeat for the ears and flange. Here is a picture of the alignment plug and template set up for the flange recess.
    TemplateandPlug.jpg
    The finished hole with box, flange, outlet and closed cover plate.
    FinishedHolewithBox.jpgFinishedHolewithFlange.jpgFinishedHolewithReceptacle.jpgFinishedHolewithCover.jpg


    I finished all the box installation about two weeks ago and called the electrician to finish the wiring. He has not called back. Of course, I could wire it myself. I would rather the builder be able to tell the inspector that all electrical work was done by a licensed electrician than some by the owner.

    I am working on the connections for moving the on/off controls and bin sensor and alarm for the dust collector through the floor. That will be another thread.
    Last edited by Thomas Wilson; 03-20-2022 at 11:51 AM.

  7. #52
    Quote Originally Posted by Rod Sheridan View Post
    Yes it is, often referred to in the trade as a “monument”….Regards, Rod
    Quote Originally Posted by Thomas Wilson View Post
    Did I miss something?
    I figured it out. You are referring to the electrical pedestal that looks like a grave stone or "monument". I am a bit slow.

  8. #53
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,887
    Thomas, do "they" make these floor accommodations to fit things like 240v twist locks for machinery? Maybe it was mentioned and I missed it...

    BTW, that's a really nice, clean install in the floor. Bravo!
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  9. #54
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    Thomas, do "they" make these floor accommodations to fit things like 240v twist locks for machinery? Maybe it was mentioned and I missed it...

    BTW, that's a really nice, clean install in the floor. Bravo!
    Yes, the standard 240v twist lock receptacles fit the flange and box. A round hinged cover plate goes on top. The ones I ordered have not come in yet. It would be a bummer if they never show up.

    You will likely be building on a slab and would probably use PVC boxes and conduit. The same flange and cover plates in aluminum or brass can go on top. The metal box can be used in concrete too but maybe not in a grade level slab.

  10. #55
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,887
    I actually do not intent to have any in-floor resources. My space, despite being larger than the old shop, will likely need to be a bit flexible until I figure out the best workflow. I was just curious if the L6 20 and 30 could be accommodated in those beautiful brass in-floor setups since they are kinda essential for a woodworking shop these days. (I prefer twist locks, but support for straight blade for folks who like that is also nice)
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  11. #56
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    I actually do not intent to have any in-floor resources. My space, despite being larger than the old shop, will likely need to be a bit flexible until I figure out the best workflow. I was just curious if the L6 20 and 30 could be accommodated in those beautiful brass in-floor setups since they are kinda essential for a woodworking shop these days. (I prefer twist locks, but support for straight blade for folks who like that is also nice)

    Floor boxes accommodate locking receptacles with ease "Twistlock®" is a registered trademark, just like "Romex®". There are 3 in the floors of my shop, a 120V Twistlock that I never use, and a 240V receptacle my Unisaw is powered from, + a duplex receptacle that took a month or so to get the cover for, the backroom has duplex & 240V receptacles in the floor boxes, Most of the floor boxes were steel & cast iron made by Hubbell. As to debris collecting in the boxes I blow them out & put the caps back in place & they have been trouble free for 29 years.

    This the cover I used for my Twistlock® receptacles.

    https://www.amazon.com/Hubbell-Wirin...910011&sr=8-10

    Hate to think how much it costs now, back in '93 paid around $30 for this.

    https://www.hubbell.com/wiringdevice-kellems/en/Products/Electrical-Electronic/Floor-Boxes/In-Floor/Covers/1-Gang-Cover-Round-Duplex-Threaded-Screws-Brass/p/1531446

    Edit: Better then $60 now.
    Last edited by Rollie Meyers; 03-21-2022 at 9:05 PM.

  12. #57
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,887
    I figured that, Rollie...'was just curious to confirm that the appropriate receptacles were available for that format.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

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