[OP]
Member
My dad wants to add several 220v outlets in my garage. I’m tired of sharing a dryer outlet with 4 machines. My 5hp sawstop, 3hp jointer, And 5hp planer all have their own cords and 10-30 male plugs.
The plan was go add a few 10-30 outlets. Thoughts on that?
Question 2, what are these 4 wires for? I’m confused with wiring diagram and namplate. No way this motor needs a constant 110v so we figured to run 10awg cord and a 10-30 male plug.
2 wires are for the run winding, the other 2 are the start winding. To reverse direction, you reverse the polarity of the start winding. That motor does not appear to be equipped with a thermostat, so don't worry about those wires (that aren't there) or those thermostat voltage ratings. I assume it's a 240V motor.
[OP]
Member
Yeah, it's a 5hp single phase baldor. Brand new. No manual in box.Originally Posted by Frank Pratt
Member
No, a 10-30 plug is wrong for this application. You should use 6-30 plugs and receptacles.
A 10-30 is used for 120/240 without ground. That middle pin is for neutral, not ground. Yes, it will work but it's not code compliant and in certain situations could be dangerous.
Beranek's Law:
It has been remarked that if one selects his own components, builds his own enclosure, and is convinced he has made a wise choice of design, then his own loudspeaker sounds better to him than does anyone else's loudspeaker. In this case, the frequency response of the loudspeaker seems to play only a minor part in forming a person's opinion.
L.L. Beranek, Acoustics (McGraw-Hill, New York, 1954), p.208.
Contributor
The wiring differences just change the way the motor rotates.
Sure, add some 240 receptacles and make your life easier.
My personal choice would be to use L6-30P's and R's for plugs and receptacles if you're going to stay with that wiring convention. These are twist lock plugs and receptacles.
I have a 5HP Air Compressor and a 5HP commercial washer on 3/C,10AWG, SOOW cord,that both utilize L6-30P's. The warranty on the Air Compressor was void the moment I put a plug on it, but I was good with that.
If warranties are important to you, you might want to check into the wiring. Some manufacturers, like my air compressor by Rolair, want the machines hard wire installed per the manual. If not, an appropriately sized/rated cord and plug will absolutely work.
Last edited by Mike Cutler; 04-05-2019 at 7:49 AM.
"The first thing you need to know, will likely be the last thing you learn." (Unknown)
Contributor
Might be a good time to call an electrician. Anytime I see folks asking about basic wiring, it gives me pause. I have a healthy respect for electricity and know when I'm over my head. I don't want a shop fire caused by "electrical issues". Skilled labor can be cheap in those cases.
Member
All excellent advice. I'll 2nd the 'L6' recommendation. And to quote Red Adair (famous oil well fire fighter), "If you think it's expensive to hire a professional, try hiring an amateur!"
Last edited by Malcolm McLeod; 04-05-2019 at 11:45 AM. Reason: Forgot to Mention: Red was a TEXAN. ;^)
Contributor
Hi, I never install locking devices unless I have a need for them.
Straight blade receptacles, and right angle cord caps make a very neat installation. at lower cost.
We experience far more failures of twist lock devices at work than straight blade devices because it's difficult at a glance to determine if they have been rotated to the correct position.
Straight blade devices are obvious when not properly seated............Regards, Rod.
Contributor
I concur with Rod - I dislike the twist-locks because they're difficult to align.
Member
With dedicated receptacles, I just plug ‘em in and leave them. YMMV
(I like the extra security.... call me a sissy.)��
Last edited by Malcolm McLeod; 04-06-2019 at 7:34 AM. Reason: spelling...d'oh!
Contributor
Rod
I've always been kind of partial to twist locks. I like the confidence of knowing that plug can't easily come out.Usually, for me at least, they're attached to somewhat heavier cords, 10 and 12AWG SO cord, that can droop, but using the right angle plugs would certainly mitigate that issue.
I've never had the problem Dan has referred with respect to alignment???
It's a personal preference for me, and they can be an acceptable "line of sight disconnect" under the right circumstance. I like them in the garage.
Regardless of my personal opinion, as long as the correct sized/rated plug, receptacle and wiring is used, everything should be just fine.
"The first thing you need to know, will likely be the last thing you learn." (Unknown)
Contributor
I have twist locks all around my shop.
If I had it to do over I would use straight blade right angle as Rod suggests.
Contributor
+1 on twist lock. I like knowing that the plug is securely attached to the outlet and won't get easily pulled out mid operation.
[OP]
Member
Dad came by yesterday with a bunch of wire, breakers, and a subpanel. First time I had to attic crawl and fish wire but I'm happy to say I have 5 new 220 outlets. Three 20amp and two 30 amps. All are L6 twist lock outlets. So excited.
Now, can someone further explain why this motor has 4 wires? As in, what are each color for? I'm used to reading as in an a worded explanation in a manual to what the wires are not a drawing of the wiring schematic which doesnt make sense to me. Once I figure out what these wires mean, I can wire up the magnetic starter to the planer, hook up the 10awg plug with new twist lock end and be done.
Member
Each of the 4 wires should be marked with a number printed on them. You should find a 1, a4, a5, and an 8. Also per the drawing. Blue is 1 yellow is 4. Black is 5 and red is 8.
to rotate in the standard dir. connect the 1 wire with the 8 wire with one leg or your 240 out of the start switch (contactor). Connect th 4 wire and the 5 wire with the other leg of the 240 from the start switch (contactor). Connect the ground wire to the ground terminal. The wires should match the cover drawing Line means the 2 sides of the 240.
Gary
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