Sometimes the stars align...

[Mike Manning]

This morning I went to an estate sale. The only reason I went was because there was one bad pic of what could or couldn't be a 10-drawer Craftsman toolbox. It looked pretty ratty but I need one or two drawers to fix an old Craftsman gray & red toolbox I've got. Turned out if wasn't a Craftsman so from that perspective - swinging strike! I certainly didn't go thinking I would see any hand planes but...

I was hardly in the work shop and I spot one under a table - it's a Stanley! No good - beat up, rusted, broken, missing parts and a #4 to boot which I've got. A little further deeper into the shop I spot 2 hand planes and 3 block planes lurking on a shelf. Sadly, it's the same story as the previous plane although one of the hand planes was a Shelton and this is my first time to spot one in the wild. That's cool! Now I've circled all the way around and I'm back at the door. I check the first workbench by the door where earlier I'd grabbed a Ridgid 3-head pipe threader and some how there is a Stanley plane I looked all around and missed the first time! I immediately notice it's too long to be a #4 or #5 and too short to be a #7 or #8. It's the #6 that I've been hoping to pick up for quite a while!! Rusty and dirty, tote is broken and I'll probably replace it. Plane iron is likely not correct but it's a Sweetheart. The adjustment lever has got a little wave bend in it which will need to be straightened. The lever cap is a Bedrock! I don't believe the plane is an early Bedrock. It doesn't have the square sides and the body has the 1910 patent date and I think by that time (1925-1928) Stanley was squaring off the sides of the Bedrock planes. So I'll also need to locate an correct lever cap but the Bedrock will work until that happens.

The plane has a LOT of crud on it and rust too. Before I put it in some Evaporust but first I need to get all the dirt and crud off. I'm looking for recommendations on how best to do that without stripping or damaging whatever japanning remains. Thoughts?

Also, the rod for the tote is stuck in the plane body. What would you guys use to try and remove it without damaging the rod? After I get the crud off and the rust I'll tackle that but ideas on that would also be appreciated.

Here's the kicker...last night before going to bed I looked at some #6 planes on the big auction site and decided I was going to seriously bid on one that ends today about 5pm. Told myself I'd go as high as $90. This morning I find a Stanley #6C for $9. It's great when the stars align! This one needs a lot of work but it'll be fun getting it ready to use again.


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If you're interested here's the rest of my estate sale haul...
The thing I spent the most on was $10 for the Ridgid 3-head pipe threader (3/4", 1/2", 3/8") with a piece of 1/2" pipe for a handle. I got an Armstrong Bridgeport pipe threader for $1 with 2 1", 3/4" & 1/2" Armstrong dies for $1 each, also 2 Toledo 1-1/4" & 1" dies for $1 ea. 20" Proto Professional adjustable wrench- $2. What appears to be a high quality, heavy duty 8" 3-jaw gear puller - $9. Mac Tools fuel pressure gauge - $3. A plastic toolbox full of sockets most of which appear to be mostly US made Craftsman (but I did see a Snap-On, Mac & Indestro too) - $3. A few smalls ($6.50) - vintage Fletcher GoldTip glass cutter in original box, Craftsman 3/8" Thumb wheel ratchet, multi-span wrench, Sportscraft whistle, 2 angel fridge magnets, Hershey kiss keychain, fishing lure replica keychain, University of Texas license plate cover, half-full cans of Buck's Honing Oil & Fiebing's Neatsfoot Oil Compound and a high pressure hose nozzle. Lastly, a box of misc sheets (>100) of sandpaper and 2 new packages of 1 and 00 steel wool - $4.

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[David Eisenhauer]

Oh Mike, Mike, Mike. But have you ever done that resawing you needed to do and built some more boxes? I am afraid you have fallen down that deep, deep estate-sale rabbit hole.

[Mike Manning]

Oh Mike, Mike, Mike. But have you ever done that resawing you needed to do and built some more boxes? I am afraid you have fallen down that deep, deep estate-sale rabbit hole.

No David I haven't. But I've also been reading Steven Newman's thread here on making some boxes in his shop with some leftover ash. My workbench is covered with Stanley planes in need of restoration! I think about your offer at least once a month. Are you in town for a while? Maybe I could stop by to use that big bandsaw of yours! ;-)

[Mike Manning]

It's definitely a Bailey #6C. Someone reminded me that the early Bedrock planes would have the Bedrock numbering so if this were an early Bedrock it would have been numbered as a #606 not as a #6. I'm still super happy with the plain old Bailey #6C!

[Jim Koepke]

It's definitely a Bailey #6C. Someone reminded me that the early Bedrock planes would have the Bedrock numbering so if this were an early Bedrock it would have been numbered as a #606 not as a #6. I'm still super happy with the plain old Bailey #6C!

Besides, there are no Bedrocks with Bailey cast in the toe.

The type one Bedrocks used the same numbering as the Bedrocks. The early type 2 Bedrocks also used the single number.

Some of my planes have come home looking worse than that and made fine users.

For getting the tote screw out there are many penetrating oils available. Try which ever you have on hand. My favorite is Break Free, sold at many gun supply shops.

jtk

[Mike Manning]

Besides, there are no Bedrocks with Bailey cast in the toe.

The type one Bedrocks used the same numbering as the Bedrocks. The early type 2 Bedrocks also used the single number.

Some of my planes have come home looking worse than that and made fine users.

For getting the tote screw out there are many penetrating oils available. Try which ever you have on hand. My favorite is Break Free, sold at many gun supply shops.

jtk

Jim,
I think you meant to say "The type one and early type 2 Bedrocks used the same numbering as the Baileys". Correct?

Using some type of penetrating oil was what I was thinking. Not sure the best way to get a purchase on the rod to turn it loose but if I can really get some penetrating oil down in there it should come out fairly easily. Knock on wood.

All,
What Stanley/Bailey planes have the same size totes as the #6?

It appears the #6 should have the same size lever cap as a #7. Correct?

Thanks!

[Jim Koepke]

Jim,
I think you meant to say "The type one and early type 2 Bedrocks used the same numbering as the Baileys". Correct?

Using some type of penetrating oil was what I was thinking. Not sure the best way to get a purchase on the rod to turn it loose but if I can really get some penetrating oil down in there it should come out fairly easily. Knock on wood.

All,
What Stanley/Bailey planes have the same size totes as the #6?

It appears the #6 should have the same size lever cap as a #7. Correct?

Thanks!

Yes to the type 1 and early type 2 comment.

For grabbing the tote rod a pair of vise grips or water pump pliers should do the job. If you are worried about scratchs, maybe use some small pieces of wood as a cushion.

The other planes with the same size tote as a #6 are the #4-1/2, #5, #5-1/2, #7, #8 and #10.

You might want to consider repairing the tote, it isn't that difficult:

https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?272337

jtk

[Steve Kaminska]

The plane has a LOT of crud on it and rust too. Before I put it in some Evaporust but first I need to get all the dirt and crud off. I'm looking for recommendations on how best to do that without stripping or damaging whatever japanning remains. Thoughts?

I've had really good luck soaking for a few hours in LA's Awesome Cleaner and scrubbing with a black toothbrush (as in the 3-pack you get at Harbor Freight along with the steel and the brass toothbrushes). It might take a couple of soakings, but the cleaner doesn't seem to touch the japanning.

[Phil Mueller]

Congrats on the find, Mike. Yes, when I do hit an estate sale, I must always remind myself to look up, down, and under...and take a second walk around. Amazing sometimes what you can miss the first time through.

I usually use a toothbrush, toothpick or Qtips with cleaner to remove most of the crud prior to Evaporust. The japaning is pretty tough stuff, so if it isn’t loose already, most gentle cleaning won’t cause any additional loss.

[Jim Koepke]

This post doesn't mention much about rust removal, but it is about a #7 found on one of my days of rust hunting:

https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread....ker-to-Jointer

It might be of some help.

jtk

[Ben Bowie]

To get the tote rod loose, I've dropped some penetrating oil near the hole and let it sit. Then I get a pair of vise grips and and an old piece of leather belt. Put the belt around the rod, clamp the vise grips over the belt and give it a turn. If it still doesn't move, I give the end of the rod a few gentle ( too hard and you'll peen the bolt) hits with a mallet and try to turn it again. The shock from the hits sometimes will break the rust and crud between the rod and plane body threads free so the rod will turn.

[Mike Manning]

I decided to go back to that estate sale this morning and re-examine those planes. I was hoping the #5 might have some useful parts for the #6 I bought. Alas, the condition was as bad as I recalled. Nothing useful. However, I did find a couple of more items that I brought back home. I'm not sure how I missed the Starrett stuff. Picked up a couple of Starrett gauges, a Starrett center finder, vintage Lufkin rule (I'm not sure what these type of rules are called...???), replacement hammer handle and a hand saw.

I normally pass hand saws up. I've always found it hard to saw both straight and perpendicular. This Warranted Superior was still on the shop wall with about half a dozen other saws. I actually thought I was buying a Disston as there were some Disston saws there. The handle on this saw is what led me to buy it. Seemed like the nicest handled saw by far. I'm hoping someone can edumacate me on this saw. Was it worth the $5? The cutting edge of the blade is 26" from end to end. Is the blade salvageable? If so what is the best way to go about cleaning up? I'll give it a good soak in Evaporust but how to handle it after that? Also, does anyone know what wood the handle is? I was thinking Walnut. Today's total was $9.

Pics...

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Update: Found a Warranted Superior thread here on SMC from 2016. Read it was a "second tier" branding for companies like Disston and Atkins. Given how crisp this saw is I'm skeptical about it being very old. Although these people lived in this Austin home for 60 years. Guess I'll just have to clean it up and see if it's any good. Would still like to get any advice on getting it cleaned up and thoughts on the handle. Thanks.

[Jim Koepke]

vintage Lufkin rule (I'm not sure what these type of rules are called...???),

It is often called a four fold ruler. Using one of these instead of a tape measure changed my woodworking for the better. Part of the change was to also use a story stick or comparing parts. The exactness of a parts measurement is not as important as is its fit to the other parts around it.

Check here for some threads on saws by Bob Smalser:

https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread....al-wisdom-FAQs

jtk

[Nicholas Lawrence]

I have had good luck with a variation of what Bob Smalser describes in the link Jim posted. Take the handle off. Soak liberally with WD-40 (I think I have read some people like simple green, but have not tried it myself). Use a razor blade to scrape off the worst of the gunk. Then wet sand with a sanding block and more WD-40.

That one looks like it may be pitted. That could be an issue, but it is hard to tell from the photos.

ETA: one tip for dealing with the handle: use a clamp to relieve the pressure on the saw nuts before you try to remove them. Same when you put it back on. Use the clamp to get the handle tight, snug the nuts, and release the clamp.

[Mike Manning]

I have had good luck with a variation of what Bob Smalser describes in the link Jim posted. Take the handle off. Soak liberally with WD-40 (I think I have read some people like simple green, but have not tried it myself). Use a razor blade to scrape off the worst of the gunk. Then wet sand with a sanding block and more WD-40.

That one looks like it may be pitted. That could be an issue, but it is hard to tell from the photos.

ETA: one tip for dealing with the handle: use a clamp to relieve the pressure on the saw nuts before you try to remove them. Same when you put it back on. Use the clamp to get the handle tight, snug the nuts, and release the clamp.

Nicholas,
What is the deal with this pressure on the saw nuts? Clamp it with what type of clamp? Is this about maintaining the pressure of the wooden handle on the blade? Thinking about it it seems that is the only thing possible. Hmmm...interesting. I never would have thought maintaining this pressure was of importance.

Mike