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Thread: Concrete block shed for DC and compressor?

  1. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jon Snider View Post
    No one has discussed a concern my local compressor company had when I was looking at this same option, that of extended periods w temps well below freezing.
    A small electric baseboard heater would easily take care of that.

  2. #47
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    Thumbs up

    Quote Originally Posted by Frank Pratt View Post
    Mass loaded vinyl is very expensive, but 5/8" drywall is not. Better to use more of that for far less money. I built my walls using 6" steel track for top & bottom plates & 2 rows of 2.5" steel studs with 1" between them. The space was stuffed with 2 3" layers of mineral wool batts. Each side of the wall has 2 x 5/8" drywall with Greenglue between them. Do not put drywall between the rows of studs or you'll negate a lot of the sound attenuation.

    Standing 3' away with the DC remote turning it on & off, you cannot tell if it's running.
    I was thinking of using the MLV between the 2 and bump both 2x4 plates and studs against one another, with the MLV separating them, without any drywall between the outer wall and whatever I choose for the interior wall, my thinking is that this might be more efficient than a 6x plate, staggered studs and insulation of some sort
    Of course I will be filling the 7"+ cavity with some kind of insulation for more sound deadening.
    I know MLV is very expensive, but this building will be no bigger than nessecary to accommodate my CV 1800 and a vertical compressor on wheels.
    It may cost me less than the cement block building Iwas planning to build. It would have required far more concrete than I had expected.
    I could probably come up with enough used lumber to build it, too, and it would only need a 4" slab with no footings.
    My neighbors are right on top of me.
    The point about freezing temps is well taken. I think a 120v 1500w electric heater would take care if that problem, as Frank pointed out.
    Those of you with a separate building for your DC, how did you build yours?
    Anyone see other problems I may encounter building it this way?
    Last edited by Bill Jobe; 05-23-2019 at 12:16 PM.

  3. #48
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    Bill, do NOT have the inner and outer studs touching they need to be isolated from each other MLV is probably 10x the cost of drywall and dollar for dollar, will get you far more results. A single layer of 5/8" drywall has more sound blocking than a single layer of 1 lb/sq ft MLV. MLV is better suited to places that are irregularly shaped & the flexibility is needed. or where there are extreme space constraints.

    With all that insulation, a 500W heater will do for even the coldest winter nights. Don't use a fan forced heater because the fans can fail & leave you without heat.

  4. #49
    I used staggered stud walls in my basement around the bedrooms. I used 2x6 top and bottom plates and 2x4 studs. I put drywall on one side, then used Ultratouch insulation in the cavities. Ultratouch is the insulation made from denim scraps. It is much denser than fiberglass and provides pretty good sound absorbing qualities.

    One of my bedrooms down there is adjacent to my mechanical room, and my furnace sits right by the adjoining wall. You can barely hear it when it comes on, and you can't hear it when it is running.

  5. #50
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    At 24" are these deep enough for an 1800?

    https://quadcities.craigslist.org/gr...885200118.html

  6. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Jobe View Post
    At 24" are these deep enough for an 1800?

    https://quadcities.craigslist.org/gr...885200118.html
    Better if you can find something bigger. I have a 35 gallon barrel & it fills up really fast if I'm planing or jointing.

  7. #52
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    I was kinda thinking so, but.....

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