Concrete block shed for DC and compressor?

[Jim Becker]

A small backhoe (rental if you don't own) to dig for the footings...and then pour them. I don't know if you can pour them and the slab at the same time. Someone else will have to comment on that.

[Eugene Dixon]

... pour them and the slab at the same time.

a.k.a., a monolithic pour. At least that was what it was called when I lived in SC.

[Mike Kreinhop]

A small backhoe (rental if you don't own) to dig for the footings...and then pour them. I don't know if you can pour them and the slab at the same time. Someone else will have to comment on that.

That's how we do it here for small buildings or slabs. After the formwork is set up and rebar is tied, we place the concrete in one pour. Depending on how large the footers are, we might not use forms for them.

[Joe Jensen]

I just found this resource.

https://www.soundandvision.com/conte...-theater-quiet

It positions a regular drywall 2 by 4 wall as not that good with only a 40db reduction. My collector is rated at like 82db. I think that means in a drywalled room it would only be 42db outside the room?

I suspect the real problem area for me is the noise passing through the exhaust duct, and also around the door.

[Jim Becker]

I suspect the real problem area for me is the noise passing through the exhaust duct, and also around the door.

It's important to avoid any direct sound transmission, so that's why "bent path" air returns are recommended. I used an insulated steel exterior rated door for my DC/Compressor closet as it truly seals all the way around.

[Joe Jensen]

I'd be happy to have the dust collector drop from 82db to 62db. My compressor is a big old Quincy that runs at 900 RPM so and it's pretty quiet. Jim did you use and special steel exterior doors?

[Frank Pratt]

It's important to avoid any direct sound transmission, so that's why "bent path" air returns are recommended. I used an insulated steel exterior rated door for my DC/Compressor closet as it truly seals all the way around.

And if you want to go one better, screw a 3/4" sheet of MDF to one or both sides of the door, with a tube of Greenglue between each panel & the door. Makes quite a difference.

[Jim Becker]

Joe, the door was a normal, plain, insulated steel exterior door from the 'borg.

Frank, while I'm happy with the significant sound reduction I've achieved, that does sound like a nice idea because of the dampening effect the dense MDF would provide to the thin metal "container" that is the door.

[Frank Pratt]

Joe, the door was a normal, plain, insulated steel exterior door from the 'borg.

Frank, while I'm happy with the significant sound reduction I've achieved, that does sound like a nice idea because of the dampening effect the dense MDF would provide to the thin metal "container" that is the door.

I just went a little nuts because the DC room is adjacent to living space in the house. Now I need to do the same with the door from the house to the garage. Sometimes my wife complains about the loud music.

[Jim Becker]

Fortunately, my shop is in a detached building, so nobody hears the volume of the music, at least if the door(s) are closed. LOL

[Bill Jobe]

I'm starting to think that building a wood structure on a slab and applying the savings to sound control would be better all the way around.

[Jim Andrew]

Knew a guy who would dig a ditch around the perimeter of the building, fill it to ground level, then set the form for the slab while the footing was still green, and then pour the slab later. Reason to form while green, is you can pound the stakes into the soft concrete.

[Bill Jobe]

I know there are a number of members here who have built staggered stud walls so sound cannot travel through such a design.
I think most of you used a 2x6s..
I'm looking for opinions on an idea I have...instead of a 2x6, why not 2 2x4s, then insulate both walls and adding a layer of mass loaded vinyl between them?
Since my DC outbuilding can be very small, I think I can afford to make double walls .
But, I'd like to get some opinions from members or, better perhaps...someone who has done it .

[Jon Snider]

No one has discussed a concern my local compressor company had when I was looking at this same option, that of extended periods w temps well below freezing.

[Frank Pratt]

I know there are a number of members here who have built staggered stud walls so sound cannot travel through such a design.
I think most of you used a 2x6s..
I'm looking for opinions on an idea I have...instead of a 2x6, why not 2 2x4s, then insulate both walls and adding a layer of mass loaded vinyl between them?
Since my DC outbuilding can be very small, I think I can afford to make double walls .
But, I'd like to get some opinions from members or, better perhaps...someone who has done it .

Mass loaded vinyl is very expensive, but 5/8" drywall is not. Better to use more of that for far less money. I built my walls using 6" steel track for top & bottom plates & 2 rows of 2.5" steel studs with 1" between them. The space was stuffed with 2 3" layers of mineral wool batts. Each side of the wall has 2 x 5/8" drywall with Greenglue between them. Do not put drywall between the rows of studs or you'll negate a lot of the sound attenuation.

Standing 3' away with the DC remote turning it on & off, you cannot tell if it's running.