Finishing steps for PureBond hardwood plywood

[Derik Bjorklund]

I recently bought some of the 3/4" PureBond poplar veneer plywood from HD and am going to build a computer desk with it. Since this is my first time using the product I wanted to make sure my finishing process was correct. I'm most likely going to use a dye-stain like Trans Tint or Keda Dye. Still need to do some more research.

My thought process so far for finishing.

1. 2 coats of Charles Neil's pre-color conditioner.
2. Dye-stain (however many coats needed to get desired color)
3. Zinsser Sealcoat (reduced to 1/2lb cut with denatured alcohol)
4. Topcoat.

I'm not sure if I need to do any sanding between steps, or if I should pre-wet the plywood and sand down the fuzzies before step 1.

For a topcoat I'm looking at something like General Finishes Arm R Seal or even Bar & Table top epoxy.

The top of the desk is made up of a 2'x6' piece, with a 1'x1.5' section attached to the front on each side.Computer Desk Design2.pngThat's going to be the biggest section to deal with.

Also, if I wanted to separate out different areas to use different colors of dye-stain, and I use something like blue painter's tape or even pin-striping tape, will the dye-stain bleed under this at all or should it leave crisp lines?

[John TenEyck]

Welcome Derik. Columbia Purebond poplar plywood is not a bad product for some applications, but it would not be my choice for a desk to be finished as you want to do. With all the hours you are going to put into making it, I would start with a higher quality material to make it from. But regardless of what material you use, here are some comments to your questions.

If you are planning to apply the finish by hand the Charles Neil blotch controller should help a lot. If you can spray apply the dye, however, you could eliminate using it. If you are hand applying the Sealcoat it will pull Transtint dye or any dye soluble in alcohol. You should use a water soluble only dye instead, like TransFast dyes. Alternatively, you could apply a coat of shellac using rattle can shellac if you don't have spray equipment, or you could use an oil soluble sealer like Seal-A-Cell if you are planning to use Arm-R-Seal as the topcoat.

In my experience, dyes will wick under tape if applied by hand. Spray applied dyes and toners, however, should be ok if the coats are light.

John

[Derik Bjorklund]

I appreciate the information John!

I will probably end up only using the dye on the top of the desk and maybe a basic stain on everything else just to bring out the grain a little, along with some edge banding. The top is the only part I'm going to see most of the time anyway.

My budget is the main reason why I'm using that particular product. It's also my first venture into making something this complicated, or at least complicated for a beginner like myself.

You mentioned Seal-A-Cell. Would that take place of the shellac, with Arm-R-Seal going on top of that?

I have heard of the TransFast dyes so I'll look into those a little more.

Thanks again!

[John TenEyck]

Yes, Seal-A-Cell would replace the shellac in your process. I've used it several times to seal in Transtint dye before applying Arm-R-Seal. Go to Jeff Jewitt's website to learn more about Transtint and TransFast dyes. He also has an article there that shows how Seal-A-Cell and Arm-R-Seal are used over Transtint dye to recreate Stickley style finishes. I've never used TransFast dyes because I find Transtint dyes more versatile, but they have their place and would be the right choice if you want to use a shellac sealer and can't spray. Whatever approach you take, work it all out on scrap first.

http://homesteadfinishingproducts.com/


John

[Derik Bjorklund]

Makes sense. Looks like I have some more reading to do.

Thanks!

- Derik