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Thread: can I fix this?

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
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    Marina del Rey, Ca
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Runau View Post
    I thought about stub tenons, but just used pocket screws instead.
    Quote Originally Posted by Richard Wolf View Post
    ... You may need to rethink you construction methods to avoid situations like this in the future...
    Ugh. This. Pocket screws should be reserved for garage or tool shed projects. Proper joinery would have avoided the "shifted during glue-up" issues.
    "Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Longmont, CO
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    810
    Did i miss what kind of glue?

    pull the screws and see if you can use a clamp to break the joint, and screw back together?

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    West Lafayette, IN
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    6,536
    Quote Originally Posted by andy bessette View Post
    Ugh. This. Pocket screws should be reserved for garage or tool shed projects. Proper joinery would have avoided the "shifted during glue-up" issues.
    Ignore cranky pants over there.

    Pocket screws can be a great joinery method for beginners.

    Use the hand plane to get close to flush then sand the rest.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    65,891
    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Runau View Post
    think I could pull the pocket screws and open the join with a Japanese saw and then re-glue?
    Yes, pull the pocket screws first. Just make sure it's a flush cut saw with the "safe" side toward the stile/leg because you do not want to damage it. If you use a non-flush cut saw, make your cut well proud of the vertical member and the trim it flush with a sharp blade or by sanding carefully, etc. Be sure that your replacement piece is really well clamped before you drive the pocket screws. The angle they go in can move the material unless it's fixed very firmly...as you have found out.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
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    Indianapolis
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    I was just trying to save time to finish the project. I won't going forward. thanks brian

  6. #21
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    Mar 2003
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    By removing the hardware, you'll get a much nicer finish and it will be easier to apply. going "around" thing is a pain in the proverbials... In fact, removing the hardware may actually speed the process up for you!
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Indianapolis
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    I was planning on doing insert drawers and the horizontal and vertical front sections are only 3/4" thick. Thinking about making the drawers overlay now. Is 1/4" overlay with 1/4" gap practical? thanks. Brian

  8. #23
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    Jan 2009
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    Indianapolis
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    change to drawer design

    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    If you didn't use any metal fasteners, you can also cut it out using a flush cut saw and carefully replace the component, using pocket screws on the back side to help hold it in place while gluing after very carefully clamping it in position.
    Jim, thinking about changing the drawer design to over lay. I only have 3/4" dividers, how would a 1/4" overlay with a gap come out on a dresser? Thanks Brian

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Runau View Post
    Jim, thinking about changing the drawer design to over lay. I only have 3/4" dividers, how would a 1/4" overlay with a gap come out on a dresser? Thanks Brian
    Sounds like a math problem to me. Honestly, I've never done overlay doors...I'm strictly an inset lover (Shaker and Craftsman styles)...so hopefully others can help with your question.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

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