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Thread: What do people think of the LN #66 beading tool?

  1. #1
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    What do people think of the LN #66 beading tool?

    Hi all,

    I may have a chance to pick up a Lie-Nielsen #66 beading tool for around $100. If you have used one, what was your impression?
    Better than a shop made block with the blade clamped in a slot? If not better, just prettier?

    What do you think?

    Thanks,

    Jeff

  2. #2
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    Fantastic tool. The original Stanley is as good, but the LN is a lot prettier!

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  3. #3
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    I had a job that required making a bunch of replacement pieces for a 200 year old reeded mantle. I have an old Stanley, and bought the LN cutters for it. I also tried some of LV cutters, and ended up liking the LV cutters better. The tool I ended up using, and liking the most was the wooden beading tool from Lee Valley. It's very light weight, and gives better feedback for the feel of what the cutter is doing, and also can go farther from an edge than the Stanley, and knockoff versions.

    This one: http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/pag...at=1,230,41182

  4. #4
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    Tom, I often use the LV cutters in the #66, although they are smaller and need a careful fit. The only issue I have with the LN cutters is that the arris is not as fine as the LV (finer is better), and therefore leaves a broader line. The LN cutters are thicker and do not flex as much. I also make my own cutters from 3/4" wide used bandsaw blades.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  5. #5
    I find the beading cutters on a LV combination plane give a smoother cut. They are ground with a bevel more like a conventional plane. The LN 66 works more like a scraper. In softwood, the 66 leaves a fuzz. On the good side, it is fast to change blades and set up.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thomas Wilson View Post
    I find the beading cutters on a LV combination plane give a smoother cut. They are ground with a bevel more like a conventional plane. The LN 66 works more like a scraper. In softwood, the 66 leaves a fuzz. On the good side, it is fast to change blades and set up.
    The #66 *is* a scraper so it works exactly like a scraper. Try going around a curve with a combination plane some time. Or using the combination plane as an emergency backup small router plane.

    Horses for courses.
    Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things.

  7. #7
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    A while back, I was working on a small table and wanted to put some beading on the aprons. Shopped around some and tried buying a vintage Stanley 66 on eBay, but it was an auction and got too rich for my blood. Looked at the LN, but it was way over my budget. I ended up with Lee Valley's cast scratch stock http://www.leevalley.com/us/Wood/pag...66&cat=1,41182 . It was < $65 for the tool and 8 extra pre-fab cutters (I didn't want to make my own). I used it on my table, and a couple of other projects since then, and I happy with it. When I was shopping, I also saw a couple of positive reviews for the Veritas beading tool from LV - http://www.leevalley.com/us/Wood/pag...30&cat=1,41182 - a little more expensive than what I got, but still pretty affordable.

    Since I made my purchase, I've had a chance to play around with a friend's vintage Stanley 66 (didn't know when I was shopping that he had it, or I could have just borrowed it). I think it's a little easier to handle than the LV I bought, but results seem about the same.

    Anyway, if the Veritas or the LV (or the other LV Tom King mentioned above) are of interest, I had an email from LV this morning, announcing free shipping on orders over $40 for the next two weeks.

  8. #8
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    Here is a review of the LV Cast Scratch Stock: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolRev...tchStock2.html

    It includes a comparison with the LN #66, along with pics of using the LV cutters, as mentioned above. Plus a mod for the LV scratch stock.



    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Derek Cohen View Post
    Here is a review of the LV Cast Scratch Stock: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolRev...tchStock2.html

    It includes a comparison with the LN #66, along with pics of using the LV cutters, as mentioned above. Plus a mod for the LV scratch stock.



    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Coincidental that I just ordered the LV beading tool this morning (free shipping started today!). I have a thing for scraping type tools and already own a LN 66 as well as the LV wood handled beader. Why do I need another beading tool? For one thing, I accumulate Preston tools and I like the looks of the LV version! For another, I don't have one!

    I read your article on the LV & LN and as soon as the LV arrives, I will have one of my machinists make a straight fence for it, ala your design! Great suggestion in that article, Derek!

    T.Z.
    If the thunder don't get you, the lightning will.

  10. #10
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    Learn something new every day. Today I learned that LV makes three different beaders. Who knew?

  11. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by Rob Young View Post
    The #66 *is* a scraper so it works exactly like a scraper. Try going around a curve with a combination plane some time. Or using the combination plane as an emergency backup small router plane.

    Horses for courses.
    Of course, the 66 is a scraper. The difference is in sharpening. A scraper, whether card scraper or scraper plane, has a straight edge which is considerably easier to sharpen and to apply a hook than a beading cutter. The fuzzyness of my efforts with the 66 is at least partly due to not having a slip stone small enough to dress the edge of the bead.

    Back in my Williamsburg phase, I did lots of bookcases and kitchen cabinets with beaded face frames. When I did an arch top, I cut the bead on a straight piece then ripped it off and bent it into the arch on the panel. I would think cutting a bead cleanly on a curve would be difficult. I have not tried it.

    TW
    Last edited by Thomas Wilson; 04-02-2019 at 11:36 AM. Reason: Add another thought

  12. #12
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    Tony, it's a great little beader. You will like it ... even better with the straight fence.

    These two beaders, along with the Garrett Hack design, are the ones to short list.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nicholas Lawrence View Post
    Learn something new every day. Today I learned that LV makes three different beaders. Who knew?
    You can't "bead" that with a stick!

    An "unbeadable" deal!
    Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thomas Wilson View Post
    Of course, the 66 is a scraper. The difference is in sharpening. A scraper, whether card scraper or scraper plane, has a straight edge which is considerably easier to sharpen and to apply a hook than a beading cutter. The fuzzyness of my efforts with the 66 is at least partly due to not having a slip stone small enough to dress the edge of the bead.

    Back in my Williamsburg phase, I did lots of bookcases and kitchen cabinets with beaded face frames. When I did an arch top, I cut the bead on a straight piece then ripped it off and bent it into the arch on the panel. I would think cutting a bead cleanly on a curve would be difficult. I have not tried it.

    TW
    Not terrifically difficult but you do have the grain going at least 4 ways as you work around a circle (unless it was glued up from wedges). And it helps to have the right fence attached to a #66. Most of the ones I've seen in the wild are missing the 2nd fence. Heck, they are missing all but the one scratch stock that was left installed from its last use.

    Too tight a radius and it is a nightmare. Gentle radius, not so bad.

    Generally don't hook a beading cutter. Just leave it nice and square sided. Helps to polish the faces and edge though.
    Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things.

  15. #15
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    [QUOTE=Derek Cohen;2914251]Tom, I often use the LV cutters in the #66, although they are smaller and need a careful fit. The only issue I have with the LN cutters is that the arris is not as fine as the LV (finer is better), and therefore leaves a broader line. The LN cutters are thicker and do not flex as much. I also make my own cutters from 3/4" wide used bandsaw blades.

    Regards from Perth

    Yes, I remember now. The LV cutters (3/16" reeding cutter specifically) matched the 1828 mantle reeded pieces exactly. That's the trouble with multi-plane cutters too. They leave a little flat beside the beads.

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