Centauro CO 600 bandsaw rebuild questions

[Mike Kees]

About 3 months ago I purchased a 1980 Centauro CO 600 bandsaw from a theatre company in Calgary.The saw had spent its entire life at this company. It is slightly rough looking because of paint over spray. So I just started working on it yesterday,it is three horse power 230 volt three phase. Electrician wired in a circuit to my three phase panel and I immediately plugged it in and fired it up after powering my phase converter. Just hearing it run got me excited so I found one of the blades that came with it and installed it,tried a few cuts. There was a vibration that sounded like a wheel or motor bearing was starting to go. So today I pulled off the wheels,the bottom one had to come off anyway because the brake did not work at all. The brake pad is gone,worn right off. Once I had the wheel off I ran the motor alone and nothing but smooth,no extra noise etc. I knocked the bearings out of the top wheel with a piece of wood turned to the diameter of the outside race on my lathe. Those top bearings look great,full of grease ,the wheel turned smooth with no play. I only removed them because there was original paint on the shield,I figured 40 years probably time for new bearings. The bearings are Steyr from Austria 6207 shielded on top wheel.
Sorry for the novel. My questions are. 1. Would you replace the wheel bearings just because ? 2. Same question but motor bearings ? 3. where can I get brake pad material to replace the pad on my wheel brake ? 4.. Who makes after market guides for these saws, and where can I buy them ? Thanks for your patience if you have made it this far, Mike.

[Tom M King]

Mine is still running smoothly, so sorry I can't answer any bearing questions.

Carter makes guides that fit it, but the standard lower guide they sell for it is really pretty small. I modified the larger size for the bottom, that matches what they sell for the top guides. I don't remember exactly what I did, but it required a small amount of modification to the guide. I sent them a list of what I did, so they may, or may not have it available. I needed to get it going for a shingle making job, or otherwise I would have modified the "box" in the frame where the lower guide goes without modifying the guide. It works so good though that I have no need to go back and do anything different to it.

If Carter doesn't have a record of what I told them I did to make it work, I might be able to dig up an old email, but I'm afraid I might have used their contact box on their website-don't really remember.

[Jerry Bruette]

Yes, you should replace the bearings. Technically speaking after you knocked them out they may be damaged and should be replaced, and mounted the proper way. I would purchase a name brand bearing, SKF, Nachi, MRC,etc. Don't go to your local automotive parts store for bearings.

Your choice on the motor bearings, but why not? If you feel confidant about replacing them.

McMaster-Carr should have brake lining material.

[David Kumm]

The heel bearings move slowly so they were likely good unless damaged when you worked on them. If you change them CN or C2 tight clearance are appropriate, not C3. For motor bearings I would go with SKF Explorer and high temp grease. The Centauro Euro motors tend to run very warm. Natchi Quest are similar ABEC3 bearings to the Explorer. Dave

[Tom Trees]

Jack Forsberg has a few good videos about bearings you could watch.


Don't forget to take some pics

Tom

[Mike Kees]

Just an update. After isolating my motor and running it I determined the motor bearings needed replaced. That is getting done . Also found a brake shop to rebuild the pad for my wheel brake. I am getting some paint made up in spray cans. Bearings for my top wheel and new belts are also on their way. I spent Sunday afternoon fabricating a foot pad for the wheel brake,it was missing. I also fabricated a handle for the fence,and handles for the tracking" bolt and nut". I am working on a dust collection spout because the plastic one that was on it is smashed.