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Thread: SCMI Sliding Table Adjustment

  1. #1

    SCMI Sliding Table Adjustment

    Greetings SMC,

    I recently acquired an older SCMI SI12 sliding table saw, about 20 years old. It's a great saw still in superb condition. However, I'd like to adjust the height, tilt, attitude, and direction of the sliding table, and there is nothing in the instruction manual about this (among many other things). Does anyone have an SI12 or other older SCMI slider who has expertise on adjusting the slider? There are numerous set screws supporting and built into the slider's base, and it seems pretty obvious what some of them do. I'm not certain about others, though, such as the caphead screws that attach the slider to the saw base (do these adjust the slider or merely fasten it to the base, or both?), and a series of several stacked set and caphead screws along the length of the slider's base (picture attached). If anyone has any insight into this kind of adjustment it would be greatly appreciated. I've already contacted SCM and talked to a technician who, he claimed, had no idea about the saw because he'd never seen or worked with one. Many thanks again, SMC.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Phoenix AZ Area
    Posts
    2,505
    I don't have experience with the SCMI sliders, but I learned a ton setting up my Felder in January. A fellow Felder owner who is a retired machinist showed me how using a precision machinist level made it much much easier. I started by using a precision straight edge to check the cast iron table for flattness and it looked good. Then I set about using the precision straight edge to get the slider adjusted to the table. I could get 80-90% perfect and then it would go way out. When the other Felder owner came over to help he asked me if I used the precision level to check the top for flatness and I hadn't. Turned out that the top had a slight twist of .010" with two opposite corners high and two low. Once I got the top flat getting the slider to the top only took an hour. I now have my slider .005-.010" above the table across the entire travel.

    The precision level I used is 14" long, and each mark on the bubble is .0005" across the 14". I Set the level on the front of the cast iron top, shimming the level until the bubble was centered. Then I moved the level and stack of shims to the back of the cast iron and I found the .010" twist.

    Lastly, I have an old SCMI jointer and I called SCMI service and they were very helpful over the phone with advice. I bet the have a proceedure they can fax you.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Grand Forks, ND
    Posts
    2,336
    Joe has some good advice, I was lucky and my slider was dead on. But I do have the procedure list from Felder for adjusting the slider....things must be adjusted in a certain order or you will be in for a whole lot of frustration. I'd contact SCMI and I'm sure they will have a commission list for adjusting the slider.

  4. #4
    Thanks for the replies guys. I actually just started pulling out screws and set screws to see what would happen, and ended up figuring it out. (Although I still don't know what the series of stacked screws along the length of the slider base do.) The adjustment mechanisms give very positive feedback, and getting the slider to where I wanted it was a lot easier than I expected. It's now perfect. So if anyone out there with old SCMI sliders has any questions, I've now gone through mine almost top to bottom and can maybe give you some info. Joe, how do you like that SCMI jointer? I'd really like one of those. How do you guys with Felders like them? They look amazing machines from the videos I've watched. We were seriously considering a Felder or Mini-Max combo machine until a friend of ours upgraded to a larger SCMI and sold us his old one.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Phoenix AZ Area
    Posts
    2,505
    Hugh, good to hear that you got it sorted out. I love my Felder. Best thing I've done for myself in a long long time. The SCMI jointer is the tool that started all this. About 3 years ago I saw a post from someone on a WW forum about the 12" 1970s Rockwell F3a jointer he bought. It was made by SCMI in Italy and imported by Rockwell. Seemed like the exact machine I wanted. In my research I found that they sold for between $6-7K new in 1975. After a few months I found one in complete condition on an auction in Las Vegas. I won it for $700 and getting it shipped cost another $300. I ended up completely tearing it down, repainting each part individually, and then reassembling it with a Byrd cutterhead. It is a 3 phase machine so I added a VFD too. It's a NEMA4 sealed unit so dust isn't a problem.

    The only missing is an optional horizontal mortising attachment. If I found one I'd buy it, but the way my shop is set up I couldn't leave it attached.

    Here are a few pics.

    The auction pic




    AFTER




    Check out the original cutterhead compared to an original PM60 8" cutterhead.



    Here is the Byrd head


    VFD

  6. #6

    scmi hijack

    Quote Originally Posted by Joe Jensen View Post
    The SCMI jointer is the tool that started all this. About 3 years ago I saw a post from someone on a WW forum about the 12" 1970s Rockwell F3a jointer he bought. It was made by SCMI in Italy and imported by Rockwell.
    Nice jointer Joe! And just to pile on, here is my SCMI t110 shaper. 800 dollars at a local auction, including fees and feeder.

    In my opinion, people should not be too far put off by this older industrial equipment. Joe's bearing picture shows why-- the machines are vastly superior to what are normally thought of as hobby machines. There are a few hurdles to jump through, but once you catch the three phase industrial bug, there is no going back. And the prices can be ridiculously low.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  7. #7

    scmi si 12 slider

    Quote Originally Posted by Hugh MacDonald View Post
    Thanks for the replies guys. I actually just started pulling out screws and set screws to see what would happen, and ended up figuring it out. (Although I still don't know what the series of stacked screws along the length of the slider base do.) The adjustment mechanisms give very positive feedback, and getting the slider to where I wanted it was a lot easier than I expected. It's now perfect. So if anyone out there with old SCMI sliders has any questions, I've now gone through mine almost top to bottom and can maybe give you some info. Joe, how do you like that SCMI jointer? I'd really like one of those. How do you guys with Felders like them? They look amazing machines from the videos I've watched. We were seriously considering a Felder or Mini-Max combo machine until a friend of ours upgraded to a larger SCMI and sold us his old one.

    Hugh,
    Have you been happy with your scmi si 12? I have been looking at one, and would appreciate thoughts you have. I have a unisaw currently and like it. Hobby shop.
    Thanks,
    Mike

  8. #8
    was the top perfectly flat on the saw? how did you take the twist out. my perception of these saws in the base is so thick that there will not be twist in it. I found it hard to level mine with shims, adjustable feet would have been better so will have to make some. My top is not perfectly flat and dont think they are any adjustments to raise a top up in the middle.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Va.
    Posts
    123
    Jeff Monson ....may i get a copy of the Felder list for adjusting a slider??

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