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Thread: The Hall of the Mountain King

  1. #76
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
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    E TN, near Knoxville
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    7,994
    I'm a fan of muted earth tones. One way to get ideas is to find photos on the internet of buildings in somewhat similar environments.

  2. #77
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    48,777
    The specific color is up to you because it's very subjective. "My" personal preferences are similar to what John mentions. I like a structure to "integrate" with its surroundings so I would likely do a single shade for the structure with a mildly contrasting trim color. If I wanted to put a highlight on the gable end, I'd put something artistic up there centered while leaving the background the same as the lower level. But that's me...and as I noted, it's a subjective thing.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  3. #78
    Thanks all for the comments. I made the model to test the colors because I was not sure if it was too much red. I wanted something bold but it is hard to tell from just paint samples. These colors are the ones suggested by the designer at the paint store. I asked for mossy green, brick red, and tan. This is what she suggested. I think her green choice is more gray than mossy. She said she did not want the color scheme to look too Christmasy. I like the bold russet red but it might be a little too much in real life. If you want to look up the colors, they are from Benjamin Moore and the main color is Gloucester Sage, accent color is Earthly Russet, and the trim color is Bleeker Beige.


    My model is also not a perfect model of the color balance because it does not show the stone veneer, garage door and people door below the main shop level. Also, the areas of main color, accent color and trim are not proportional in size to the actual building. If the basement doors were russet, that might shift the color scheme from bold to gaudy. The good news is that I am not buying paint anytime soon. I have time to experiment and maybe walk it back a little. One other thing, this gable end has the most area of the accent color. The front will just have the double front door with the russet The other gable end has a stone chimney cutting through the gable section to reduce the russet and no doors.

    An interesting side note, my sister-in-law is building a timber frame barn. I really like her artistic sense and she independently picked colors very similar to mine. She did not paint as much of her building red as I did in this model.

    Here is a JamesHardie design scheme from their gallery that I used for inspiration. I will have the same style of siding, shingles, and stone. I even plan to have the roof shingle ledger dividing the main level from the gable. I just want to change the main color from dark tan to mossy green to be more woodsy.
    IMG_5404.jpg
    Here is a color design illustration I put together with Benjamin Moore's color designer using my colors applied to one of their stock photos. It shows some ways I might reduce the amount of the accent color by dividing the areas differently. Note the garage doors in their design are red. It is bold but not overpowering.
    IMG_5405.jpg

  4. #79
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Lake Gaston, Henrico, NC
    Posts
    3,654
    Must be some difference in the way it shows on my monitor. I'm not seeing a hint of green in any of that. One thing I always consider, when trying to decide on colors, is that it has to be something that I'm sure I'll never get tired of looking at.

  5. #80
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    SE Michigan
    Posts
    1,976
    It didn’t quite work for me in your model, but I like how it looks in the second photo. I think that would look great in your wooded setting.

  6. #81

    Week 11 Closed in

    Not much happening this week. The carpentry crew worked one day. The OSB and paper are on the roof and OSB and Tyvek on the gable ends and porch wall. The carpentry crew have been working on my job continuously since May 28. They left to get back to a job they were working on before my timber frame arrived. Their goal was to get the timber frame protected from the weather. Now, I have to be patient.

    HVAC, plumber, and electrician are starting next week. I have ordered cypress T&G for the porch floor and the same spruce 2x6 T&G as the shop ceiling for the ceiling of the porch. For those who wish that the shop did not have walls in this setting, I am with you. There will be a screened porch.

    I am working on a modification floor plan to add a half bath in the loft. It is tight but doable. It will be 50"x60" tucked into corner of the gable end next to the knee wall. Minimum height for a bathroom under a sloped roof is 6'8 in front of each bathroom fixture. With the knee wall at 42" and a 12:12 pitch this will just meet. The tank of the commode will be against the 42" knee wall.

    I went to get an oak beam to from the timber framer to use for the support post in the center of the basement room under the shop.

    IMG_2035.jpg
    IMG_2036.jpg
    IMG_2039.jpg

  7. #82
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Colorado Springs
    Posts
    233
    Actually seems like a lot. Looking good Thomas.

  8. #83
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    E TN, near Knoxville
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    7,994
    Quote Originally Posted by Thomas Wilson View Post
    I am working on a modification floor plan to add a half bath in the loft. It is tight but doable. It will be 50"x60" tucked into corner of the gable end next to the knee wall. Minimum height for a bathroom under a sloped roof is 6'8 in front of each bathroom fixture. With the knee wall at 42" and a 12:12 pitch this will just meet. The tank of the commode will be against the 42" knee wall.
    I want to get back out there in the next week or two for the roof and wall experience!

    Our timber frame house has a couple of bathrooms upstairs under the 12/12 pitch roof, like that (but larger). We just remodeled one with a glass-wall walk-in shower with a bench at the low end with the ceiling sloping up to over 10' on the high end. With a skylight in the sink/commode part of the room the sunlight can light up the shower at certain times. Quite pleasant. (There are 6 skylights in the roof.)

    When do you think your porch will be decked? I want to see that too.

    JKJ

  9. #84
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    48,777
    Adding that half-bath is a really good idea, both for your own convenience, but also for future use by "whomever".
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  10. #85
    Quote Originally Posted by John K Jordan View Post
    I want to get back out there in the next week or two for the roof and wall experience!

    Our timber frame house has a couple of bathrooms upstairs under the 12/12 pitch roof, like that (but larger). We just remodeled one with a glass-wall walk-in shower with a bench at the low end with the ceiling sloping up to over 10' on the high end. With a skylight in the sink/commode part of the room the sunlight can light up the shower at certain times. Quite pleasant. (There are 6 skylights in the roof.)

    When do you think your porch will be decked? I want to see that too.

    JKJ
    I will be back at the lake on Monday. I have appointments in Oak Ridge Tuesday and Wednesday mornings. The carpentry crew will not be back until week after next. Their first goal will be to get the front and and screened porches under roof. With that done, the roofers can put the shingles on the whole thing. I would guess no more than three weeks. I am sure the whole place got pretty wet yesterday.

    They won’t put the flooring on the screened porch (or inside) until near the end, after major work is finished, to protect it. Until then they will put down some temporary plywood to be able to work on the exterior from the porch. Screens will be the very last thing.

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