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Thread: Frames for Canvas

  1. #1

    Frames for Canvas

    I am not sure where to put this question, so this group wins . . . or loses : )

    We just recently started producing canvas prints, to our surprise the frames for these are one of our biggest expenses. We want to make our own frames but not sure what kind of wood to use. We tried plain pine and it warps, anyone . . . any suggestions? They are just strips of wood with a few angles and holes put into them? Any suggestions on the type of wood is much appreciated, not wanting to use MDF.

    Thanks,
    Zelma
    God Bless,
    James & Zelma (Psalm 18:2)
    "Inscriptions Of The Heart"
    Texas
    ~A person is only as good as their word~

  2. #2
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    I would use kiln dried poplar or soft maple. Pine might work if you get kiln dried to 7-8% instead of construction grade @12%
    Lee Schierer
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  3. #3
    Thank you so much.

    Zelma
    God Bless,
    James & Zelma (Psalm 18:2)
    "Inscriptions Of The Heart"
    Texas
    ~A person is only as good as their word~

  4. #4
    I'm pretty sure most of the blanks canvases that my wife uses (artist) use pine for the stretchers. Some of those do warp a bit, but not too bad. Pine is nice because of the weight, but poplar would probably work well too. I just looked at Blick - they offer some in "Brazillian White Pine." Whatever that is! Also Ponderosa Pine.

    Tony

  5. #5
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    Canvas stretchers are not a simple thing. They're joined at the ends, they have mitered supports and they are molded so that only their outer edges actually touch the canvas. This prevents them leaving a witness line around the border of the canvas.

    You can produce them, but you'll need to mold the profile and join the corners with a mitered bridle joint.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  6. #6
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    Be careful. Building frames for his paintings is the way Wharton Esherick began woodworking. Look where it led him!

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jack Frederick View Post
    Be careful. Building frames for his paintings is the way Wharton Esherick began woodworking. Look where it led him!
    If making frames results in his level of woodwork, I guess I'll have to learn to paint.

  8. #8
    I make a lot of frames. I like black walnut and cherry. Depending on the picture, eastern red cedar makes a nice looking frame. I agree that frames are a big expense. They are also a big pain, to make that is. I have made many frames out of pine. I usually use Virginia pine and have had no problems. Any wood is subject to warp or other movement, especially if it is not dry and stable.
    Don't sell yourself short on the price/value of solid wood custom made frames....they are about impossible to find these days and are always expensive. What you get in a way too expensive framing store is typically moldboard with plastic and/or paint for a finish...get it wet one time and it disintegrates. Best of luck!

  9. #9
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    Where do you live? local woods may be cheaper then the recommended ones here. Do you have trees you will cut down or is this all be store bought. I made a few things from eucalyptus but it will twist and split as it dries. I like the old growth redwood or Sitka spruce but they are hard to get these days.
    Bil lD.

  10. #10
    I’m sorry, it is the “stretcher” bars that I need to learn to make. We live in East Texas, but it will have to be from the store.
    Last edited by James & Zelma Litzmann; 03-27-2019 at 7:19 AM.

  11. #11
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    For the frames and panels I make for a local photographer, I typically use poplar. (Tulip Poplar, not the "Aspen" type poplars)
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  12. #12
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    12 years ago I made about a dozen sets of stretchers for oil based paintings ranging in size from less than a foot square to about 3ft x 4ft on one of them. These were not archive quality, although they are hanging on the walls of my house to this day.

    I used plain pine lumber from the borg. I did not undercut (although its probably a good idea). I joined the ends with a dab of all purpose construction adhesive (keep it in the joint so it doesnt touch the canvas) and then two pocket screws into each butt joint at the corners.

    There is a picture somewhere in my archives if you want it, but nothing special.

  13. #13
    Sounds like Poplar is our best bet . . . keeping my fingers crossed.

    Thank you for all your input, it is very much appreciated!

    Zelma
    God Bless,
    James & Zelma (Psalm 18:2)
    "Inscriptions Of The Heart"
    Texas
    ~A person is only as good as their word~

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Holcombe View Post
    Canvas stretchers are not a simple thing. They're joined at the ends, they have mitered supports and they are molded so that only their outer edges actually touch the canvas. This prevents them leaving a witness line around the border of the canvas.

    You can produce them, but you'll need to mold the profile and join the corners with a mitered bridle joint.
    Brian, as always you're a fount of knowledge. Can you refer me to a set of instructions or guidelines?
    My painting would like to be unbound from conventional dimensions.
    AKA - "The human termite"

  15. #15
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    Thanks Chuck. I wish I could but basically I just discect one and go from there.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

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