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Thread: Gilt Cream vs Gilding Wax

  1. #1

    Gilt Cream vs Gilding Wax

    I just did my first experiment on a textured bowl with gilding wax. The wax product is Craft Smart Premium Wax Metallic Finish, which I purchased at Michael's. I applied one coat of shellac sanding sealer prior to the wax application. The outcome is not what I expected, nor is it like the outcomes I've seen on Youtube using Liberon Gilt Cream. My question is, is there a difference between gilding wax and gilt cream, or, perhaps I need more practice with the application. Thanks.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Location
    South East England
    Posts
    3
    Not sure what your aim is but if you are trying to turn your woodturned item into a metal effect object, the artist Nick Agar a professional woodturner from the UK is the master of this technique, if this is what you are trying to achieve I suggest watching this video it clearly shows how he achieves stunning results, I have just completed myself a similar bowl myself using the same technique he uses, he just uses his fore finger and thumb to very lightly spread the gilt cream over the prepared surface, hope this may help you achieve the results you require, dont forget to apply a seal to cover the gilt cream or wax finish with a acylic spray lacquer gloss or satin finish, the video does not show that part. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AixMHw46vOc
    Last edited by Dave Newson; 03-25-2019 at 8:10 PM. Reason: forgot to add more details

  3. #3
    I've seen some of Nick Agar's Youtubes, including the one you refer to. That is the effect I'm trying to achieve, but haven't been able to. So I don't know if it's my technique, or the Liberon is different from the wax I used.

  4. #4
    I've got a friend who has some fine 17th and 18th century gilded "looking glasses" ; he uses RUB N BUFF for touch ups.
    He is particular ,and happy with result.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Cookeville TN
    Posts
    338
    There is quite a bit of difference in the various waxes/creams. I bought some metallic waxes at Hobby Lobby and have trouble getting the effect I want. If you want to completely cover an area they aren't bad but if you want to wipe on and then wipe off to highlight some areas they are very hard to get off. I've tried thinning them and not achieved much better results (these are water based). Rub N Buff is much more creamy and easy to apply and works well but requires mineral spirits to get it off your hands. Quite messy. I bought some off brand liming wax online and it works wonderfully. I have not tried Nick Agar's waxes yet but demoed in the same room with him several years ago and stayed and watched his demo. His waxes seem to work very easily.

  6. #6
    John:
    Thanks for the feedback. You describe the difficulty I have experienced with the wax. I tried highlighting some textured areas on a bowl and wound up with almost complete coverage, even though I did a very lite application with my finger. When I buffed, the coverage became complete. I'll look for some liming wax and give that a try. I'm heading up to Totally Turning this weekend; perhaps I'll see some applications, or can speak with someone who uses the different compounds.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Location
    South East England
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    3
    It sounds like you are putting to much on and filling all the textured area if you are after a metalic look. To get that metal effect as Nick Agar which works best on plain white wood ie, close grain sycamore or maple, first sand through the grits up to 400 then texture the area you want to have the metal look using a handfull of wood shavings with the lathe running press them into the the textured area this removes any fuzz, once this has been done carefully airbrush or paint black spirit stain just on the textured area, I used silver liberon gilt cream but I would think other brands would work, now comes the easy bit lightly dip your forefinger print into to cream avoiding to much then rub your forefinger against your thumb untill you can just see your finger prints through the gilt cream, then apply carefully in a circular motion avoiding getting gilt cream into the texture, when no more comes of your finger repeat the procedue remember a little goes a long way, just be patient and dont rush this procedue, once completed use acrylic spray can of lacquer satin, matt or gloss to seal the gilt cream, this tecnique does work if you follow my instructions for that metalic look you wish to do.
    Last edited by Dave Newson; 03-27-2019 at 8:29 PM. Reason: add mor detail

  8. #8
    Thanks Dave

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Location
    South East England
    Posts
    3
    You are most welcome I have included some photo's of Nick Agar inspired Viking sunset bowls that I have been working on this week, the only real trouble I incurred was some worm holes and a knot defect on the rim of one of the bowls, which made it hard to disguise, this was my first attempt at any airbrushing I was amazed how little spirit stain you use, unlike applying with a cloth or a venturi artist tube which i have used before, I was also surprised how accurate you can get with airbrushing especially airbrushing the black base coat of spirit stain on the medallion in the bowl.

    20190328_090450.jpg20190328_090825.jpg

  10. #10
    Those pieces look very nice. That's what I'm striving for.

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