using a bandsaw for cuting small-log boards

[Justin Rapp]

My 1st band-saw is showing up this week. Is it possible to use a band-saw to cut down a small log (say an 8 or 10 inch log / 2 feet long) or even some hardwood 'firewood' then stick/stack them for air dry or make a small kiln?

[Mark Paavola]

Yes it absolutely is ok. The size of your saw of your saw will somewhat dictate log sizing. With an additional table and sled I was cutting 12" dia by 8' log oak logs on my 18" Rikon. Not easy to do but for what I do not worth the expense for a sawmill.

[John K Jordan]

My 1st band-saw is showing up this week. Is it possible to use a band-saw to cut down a small log (say an 8 or 10 inch log / 2 feet long) or even some hardwood 'firewood' then stick/stack them for air dry or make a small kiln?

Although I have a sawmill, I often cut small log sections like that with my 18" Rikon bandsaw.

If you don't yet have extensive experience with a bandsaw, be advised that making unsupported cuts on a bandsaw is prohibited and very dangerous. Crosscutting a round, cutting a overhang, or slicing boards from one side of the log are all unsupported cuts. An unsupported cut will probably grab, twist or turn the wood, bend and maybe break the blade, possibly damage the saw, and possibly damage or remove a finger or two. This will happen in a millisecond. Be very, very careful. Get some instruction first by reading or from a person.

Using a jig, sled, wedges, or other methods can make these cuts supported and safe. You can rig up something with big clamps, screw wooden supports to the sides, fabricate big curved wedges to fit and hotmelt glue onto the log, or buy a device made for this. (There was one in Classifieds recently) Lots of people make sleds since the commercial version are expensive. I rarely watch youtube videos but I'd bet a nickle you could find some designs there.

I don't use any of these methods except on rare occasions but I do use methods that are safe. I don't usually use the bandsaw to cut boards from a log but mostly process turning blanks to dry. I do this safely by first insuring the log is stabilized on the table, make a cut down the center to split it into two halves, then put a half flat on the table to cut as desired. This method would make for some pretty narrow boards but will work - it's perfect for woodturning blanks. I've taught two classes recently to woodturners - if you look around someone in a local woodworking or woodturning club might be willing to teach you.

This is an example of the process with a spalted log section:

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Another way to tackle a short log section is to stand it on end for the first cut, then proceed the same way for the rest. Sassafras here.

processing_wood_.jpg processing_wood_3.jpg

Over the years I've cut thousands of turning blanks this way with zero mishaps.

BTW, I use a 1/2" blade with 3 tpi.

JKJ

[Justin Rapp]

Thanks for the tips - youtube might be a great way to see some other setups. I am getting a Laguna 14BT with 2.5hp and I think it's can cut up 13". I don't think i'd be trying anything larger than 8 or 10 just due to sheer weight and managing the log. In-feed/out feed support is a must if the log is heavy, but building a sled is even a better idea. I also would be happy with a 2 -3 foot board, any longer boards needed for larger projects, i'll take the safe method and source them from someone with a sawmill or the hardwood dealer.

I am a very safe conscious person in my workshop, esp now that my 12 year old son is starting to help, I am teaching him safety first. If something isn't safe, I am not doing it.

[John K Jordan]

Thanks for the tips - youtube might be a great way to see some other setups. I am getting a Laguna 14BT with 2.5hp and I think it's can cut up 13". I don't think i'd be trying anything larger than 8 or 10 just due to sheer weight and managing the log. In-feed/out feed support is a must if the log is heavy, but building a sled is even a better idea. I also would be happy with a 2 -3 foot board, any longer boards needed for larger projects, i'll take the safe method and source them from someone with a sawmill or the hardwood dealer.

I am a very safe conscious person in my workshop, esp now that my 12 year old son is starting to help, I am teaching him safety first. If something isn't safe, I am not doing it.

Great! I often process log sections to say 3'+ long by myself on the stock table (push to cut half way, then walk around and pull the other half) but when longer I occasionally have someone support the far end. If your son helps by supporting just make sure he doesn't try to help too much by pulling! (gravity support only) An over-helpful person pulling can throw a squirrel into the works.

One safety mantra I repeat to myself with any type of cutting tool, even the bandsaw, is "Where will my hands go if the wood suddenly disappears?" And it might disappear if something goes wrong. That helps me stay aware of where my hands and fingers are, my stance, footing, and balance, and the amount of pressure I'm using. Push sticks and wedges where needed are often used at my bandsaw. (I like to cut push sticks from dogwood or osage orange with a notch to catch and a "finger" above so I can control the pressure down and towards the fence when cutting small pieces.)

JKJ

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi, here's what I did.

https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread....+on+a+band+saw

regards, Rod.

[Justin Rapp]

Great! I often process log sections to say 3'+ long by myself on the stock table (push to cut half way, then walk around and pull the other half) but when longer I occasionally have someone support the far end. If your son helps by supporting just make sure he doesn't try to help too much by pulling! (gravity support only) An over-helpful person pulling can throw a squirrel into the works.

One safety mantra I repeat to myself with any type of cutting tool, even the bandsaw, is "Where will my hands go if the wood suddenly disappears?" And it might disappear if something goes wrong. That helps me stay aware of where my hands and fingers are, my stance, footing, and balance, and the amount of pressure I'm using. Push sticks and wedges where needed are often used at my bandsaw. (I like to cut push sticks from dogwood or osage orange with a notch to catch and a "finger" above so I can control the pressure down and towards the fence when cutting small pieces.)

JKJ

I know all too well about the over-anxious 'pull on the wood' helper. I have a family member that I ask to help catch /support wood when ripping it on the table saw when it's too big for my outfeed roller or just too damb heavy or akwards to deal with along. I've had to stop using that specific help because he always wants to help too much and pull the wood and it is just too dangerous. The same will hold true for anything large going through the band saw.


I really like the setup Rod Sheridan made - that looks like a very safe method for cutting and even for lifting the wood.

[John TenEyck]

Not sure if anyone above mentioned it, but in case it hasn't been said sawdust from green wood will rust any uncoated steel/cast iron it's left on, quickly, so make sure you clean it out of and off of you saw as soon as you are done. Waxing the table will help protect it, too.

John

[John K Jordan]

Not sure if anyone above mentioned it, but in case it hasn't been said sawdust from green wood will rust any uncoated steel/cast iron it's left on, quickly, so make sure you clean it out of and off of you saw as soon as you are done. Waxing the table will help protect it, too.
John

I'd temper that a tiny bit with sawdust from some green wood is a lot worse than others! Oak is the worst I've cut, sassafras seems to do nothing. With good dust collection the problem is minimized but just forget and leave a chunk of wet oak on cast iron overnight! I've never seen corrosion from the sawdust itself but there is usually not much on the table.

I do occasionally apply Boeshield T-9 on my bandsaw table which may help, so I might not be seeing the worst of what is possible.

JKJ

[david privett]

I have seen damp oak shavings work on waxed cast iron in two hours. but I heard that a spilled coke not cleaned up will work on it too. I remember we used to clean car battery terms with it and thought what is that doing to my guts.

[Justin Rapp]

Well I do know my dust collector is getting some, but I do need an upgrade or a 2nd one to double-up to the 2nd port. Right now my 1hp collector is not pulling enough cfm (maybe 500) when the saw mfg's owners manual says 1000cfm minimum. I will just make sure I keep up with cleaning it out after each use until I upgrade my DC