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Thread: Boring Long Holes in 12x12 beams

  1. #16
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  2. #17
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    Thanks all, I am thinking that the groove on outside with a filler strip is going to be the most effective for me. That can be done onsite and takes a lot of hassle out of the equation. Once we move in I will add the filler strip and sand/plane it flush. The gun barrel drilling on a lathe is a great idea, however a 12" x 12" x 6 ft beam is not light weight and I doubt that any non commercial applications could achieve that. I will repost in about 9 months hopefully with pics of how it turned out.

  3. #18
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    This is an overkill solution, but interesting: (skip to about 6:30) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8O5-pqUJcG0
    NOW you tell me...

  4. #19
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    Really?, Just drill the hole with a long bit like the one I suggested above. I've drilled several 1" holes 24" down a 2x4, which is 1.5"x3.5" by hand with no issue at all. Usually hit the center within 1/8" at the far end. Extrapolating over 48", that is within 1/4" of the center without guides or other extras. Of course, within 1/4", could hit the edge of a 1.5" width, but you have a 12" wide area. Probably could do that blindfolded.

  5. #20
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    More concerned about where to buy a bit that is large enough for 12 gauge Romex and also long enough.

  6. #21
    Well, just one more notion to throw in the hopper. Steal an idea from the bandsaw box crowd: rip a slice off the back side, rout or dado the channel you need, then glue the slice back pretty much where it came from.

    And anyone interested in boring long holes will enjoy the teachniques employed by this young shipbuilder who is entirely rebuilding a 109-year old gaff cutter:

    http://sampsonboat.co.uk/45-bedding-...tern-assembly/
    Life is too short for dull sandpaper.

  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by tim walker View Post
    More concerned about where to buy a bit that is large enough for 12 gauge Romex and also long enough.
    Get a long 3/4" electricians bit, and an extension. Drill a large hole behind where the box will go with a self-feeding plumbing bit. It should be easy enough to hit that hole with the long bit. I've done it before in 6x6's. Try to find an extension with a hex on the end that doesn't completely rely on the set screws to turn the bit. That way, if it does come off, you can push it back on the bit shank, and back the bit out. I can't remember which brand of extensions I have, but they are either Klein, or Milwaukee.

    I also have one of the long, flexible Greenlee bits, but would be afraid that it would wander off course. Start the hole with the electricians bit, and it should go at least 18" in before you need to put the extension on, which would help it go straight.

    Cutting the groove, and filling it back in will actually be more work, and certainly not look as good.

  8. #23
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    To the poster that asked about why gun drills drill a straight hole. A gun drill has only one cutting edge as opposed to a twist drill, spade, etc that has two. It is impossible to get the two lips/cutting edges the same length and geometry. This is also why you cannot use a twist drill to drill an accurate hole, they always drill oversized.

    Gundrills are also also made with a hole the entire length and through the end of the bit. The shank is shaped to allow cuttings to pass without withdrawing the bit, so you can use them continuously.

    I used to to use them regularly in my machining projects. Any hole that is diameter x 10 deep is generally considered problematic.

    Bill

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom M King View Post
    Get a long 3/4" electricians bit, and an extension. Drill a large hole behind where the box will go with a self-feeding plumbing bit. It should be easy enough to hit that hole with the long bit. I've done it before in 6x6's. Try to find an extension with a hex on the end that doesn't completely rely on the set screws to turn the bit. That way, if it does come off, you can push it back on the bit shank, and back the bit out. I can't remember which brand of extensions I have, but they are either Klein, or Milwaukee.

    I also have one of the long, flexible Greenlee bits, but would be afraid that it would wander off course. Start the hole with the electricians bit, and it should go at least 18" in before you need to put the extension on, which would help it go straight.

    Cutting the groove, and filling it back in will actually be more work, and certainly not look as good.
    What type of drill did you use?

  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by tim walker View Post
    Hi all, we are starting a new house build and have 4 rough cut cedar columns that are 12" x 12" x 6 ft, The intent is to install lights on them. The electric service will come from the ground. The light fixture will be located 4 ft from bottom of beam. Does anyone have suggestions of how to bore a hole 48"? Going from the top is not an option.

    One of my thoughts was to split the beam, route out a 1" groove in the middle, then glue and clamp back together.

    Any other thoughts or suggestions?

    Attachment 406042
    Hi, is this beam a structural component or decorative?

    Before I split it in half and glued it back together, I would check with the engineer if it's structural.........Regards, Rod.

  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by tim walker View Post
    What type of drill did you use?
    Not sure if the question addresses the bit, or the drill, so here are both answers:

    Probably this exact bit: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-To...3437/100662384 There are other manufacturers that make the same thing. Just make sure it has the "flats" to engage the chuck jaws, and get extensions that also have the hex inside end-not the cheap round inside ones.

    For the hole behind the box I probably used a 2-9/16" Milwaukee self-feed plumbing bit. https://www.amazon.com/s?k=milwaukee...l_780q3rmk10_e

    All drilling would have been done with a 1/2" corded drill-either a Milwaukee right angled HoleHawg, or my old Rockwell (same as PorterCable now) right angle drill. I do remember ripping a 2x down to the right width to use as a guide under the bit until it was well into the beam.

    I already had all that stuff for Plumbing, and Electrical work anyway, but if I had to buy tools just for that job, these are what I would get.
    Last edited by Tom M King; 03-25-2019 at 12:27 PM.

  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ole Anderson View Post
    This is an overkill solution, but interesting: (skip to about 6:30) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8O5-pqUJcG0
    His jig is very wiggly. needs to be welded not bolted. Looks like a good idea just some room for improvements.
    Bill D

  13. #28
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    Rod, it is decorative. Will support some trellises but not much weight at all. And there are four of them.
    Ashampoo_Snap_Monday, March 25, 2019_16h18m08s_009_.jpg

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