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Thread: Wooden bandsaw project

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Fishers, Indiana
    I have finally gotten to the point of having a working saw.
    To start with I am using a low cost Starret 133"x3/4" 3TPI skip-tooth blade.

    I have nothing to compare too as I don't own another band saw and have not used one for wood since high school ~35 years ago.
    That being said, I am very happy with the few test cuts I have been making.

    Going by the compression of the die spring I am using for blade tension, I am using ~20,000 PSI which is the Starret's recommended for this blade. I also verified the tension using a guitar tuner app and measuring the frequency of the tone produced by the blade when plucked.

    I was curious just how bad the deflection of the frame would be with this tension so I performed a simple experiment.
    1. I tension-ed the blade to 20000 PSI
    2. I placed a thin piece of wood flat on the surface of the table.
    3. Lowered the blade guide down to the point it was just touching the thin wood on the table surface and lined up 90deg corner of the blade guide with a 90deg corner of the wood.
    4. i slowly released tension on the blade to the point the blade was just going slack.
    6. i measured the distance in the X, Y, and Z plane that the blade guide corner and thin wood corner moved away from each other.

    There was no movement I could measure in the X and Y plane (horizontal). I measured less than 1/32" deflection in the Z plane (vertical).
    I am very surprised the deflection is that small.

    What this doesn't tell me is what the long term movement would be if I were to leave the blade under tension. I suspect that is where the real disadvantage of wood is as compared to steel. In any case, I plan on releasing tension when not in use.

    Some things I still plan on doing:
    1. make a fence
    2. Add some kind of blade brush to reduce sawdust buildup on the wheels. I suspect the softish gorilla tape makes this worse.
    3. Replace the castors with larger ones. The ones I am using right now are some that I had just laying around. I move the saw by leaning it back on to the castors.
    4. Add the work light. I have the box in place for one, but haven't wired it up yet.

    I have no doubt I will be tinkering for some time.

    All the bits and pieces


    Working condition
    Last edited by Jeff Wittrock; 09-08-2019 at 8:06 PM.

  2. #32
    Looks like you are close to saw dust. What size blade will it use?

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    NW Indiana
    Excellent job and I am truly impressed.

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Fishers, Indiana
    Added a simple lower wheel brush. It does help prevent buildup on both the wheel and the blade.

    Added a fence. I was pondering a more elaborate fence with a front rail, but decided to keep it very simple by having it clamp across the width of the table. To allow a simple clamp mechanism, I placed the "T" square on the far end of the fence. I wasn't sure how convenient this would be at first, but after building it I have found it very easy to use and like the simplicity. I'll eventually build a tall fence dedicated to resawing.

    I added a large handle to the backbone. I find it helps a lot when I lean the saw back to move it around on the castors.
    I also added some small "French Cleats" to stow the fence when not in use.

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    In the foothills of the Sandia Mountains
    Quote Originally Posted by Larry Frank View Post
    Excellent job and I am truly impressed.
    Same here, it's art in machinery.

    Well done!
    Please help support the Creek.

    Experience is something you don't get until just after you need it.
    - Steven Wright

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