epoxy rim on platter

[Dave Fritz]

Wonder what epoxy you might use to embed objects in the rim of a platter? The item will be too big for a pressure pot so I assume alumilite is out of the question. I see my local woodcraft carries system three. Has anyone used it?

[Ed Davidson]

System three will work, as well as most two part "glass" epoxies, like this one I use: https://www.dickblick.com/products/a...n-epoxy-resin/

[Harold Balzonia]

As Ed said, virtually any clear epoxy/resin will work. “Table top” resins are very easy to use and mix. There are dozens of options.

If you are trying to avoid too many bubbles, here are some tips:

1. Make sure the resin is at least 80 degrees when mixed and poured. If it’s much cooler than that, it can be too thick to let all the bubbles rise.

2. After you’ve cut your groove where you’re going to lay your objects, and before you pour the resin, seal the groove with something like ModPodge or white glue so that air bubbles won’t rise from where the resin meets bare wood and tries to soak into the pores.

3. Use a propane torch to pop the bubbles as they come to the surface. Go back and check it every ten minutes or so and hit it again. There’s some baby sitting involved....

[Dave Fritz]

Thank you gentlemen, that was extremely helpful. I do wonder however if you would seal the groove before attaching the items to be cast? Is there a preferred glue, CA hot melt?

I know I could experiment but it's so useful to learn from others and avoid the same mistakes. I usually find enough anyway.

[Pat Scott]

System three will work, as well as most two part "glass" epoxies, like this one I use: https://www.dickblick.com/products/a...n-epoxy-resin/

Ed I looked at the Art Resin epoxy link that you provided, and it says the topcoat cures in 72 hours but it doesn't say how long before it sets. I like the looks of your turquoise rim bowls and I have done the same rim treatment myself. But I have used 5 minute epoxy when doing a rim like yours because with a longer setting epoxy the chips settle to the bottom and are not suspended. How do you get around this? The way I've done this rim is to cut a groove, epoxy the crushed turquoise, and then turn away the groove sidewalls.

[Ed Davidson]

Pat, I do it the same way...think the process is called "outlay" aka "disappearing channel walls". You're right, a faster curing resin would help with the suspension issue. Nothing wrong with 5 minute epoxy, except the cure time may be too fast if the bowl is large and needs a lot of fill material. If your fill sinks to the channel bottom, just cut the top (naked) resin away until you're happy with the look.

[Ron Borowicz]

Ed, I really like what you have done to your rims. Are the rims completely epoxy or have you laid he epoxy over the top of a wooden rim? Do you care to share how you did these epoxy rims. Thanks!

[Ed Davidson]

Ed, I really like what you have done to your rims. Are the rims completely epoxy or have you laid he epoxy over the top of a wooden rim? Do you care to share how you did these epoxy rims. Thanks!

I believe it was Larry Fox (former Pikes Peak AAW chapter president) who invented the process, about 15 years ago. At one time, he was selling a how-to video (Creating "Outlays" from Inlays) covering the main process and some of the more refined "secrets". Larry has also done several demos and taught classes on the subject for other local chapters over the years. The basics are pretty simple:

1) be sure to use dry wood that will not move much...so the epoxy rim does not distort during curing or finish turning
2) rough turn your piece to about 1/2" wall thickness
3) use a thin parting tool to cut a 3/16" to 1/4" channel (the trough) in the rim of your piece
4) clean out the channel, making sure there is no residual dust
5) pour crushed stone (I normally use InLace man-made crushed stone), or whatever you want to cast into the channel
6) mix your epoxy/resin and pour it into the channel
7) use a toothpick to lightly stir the fill material, getting it thoroughly mixed with the resin
8) as Pat described earlier, use a torch to pop the resin bubbles
9) set your piece on the shelf for a few days
10) after the resin is completely cured, re-chuck the piece and finish the turning, removing enough wood to fully expose the resin casting...the "outlay" or "disappearing channel walls"

CrossSection.jpg The term "outlay" was attempting to describe an inlay that's visible from three sides.
TroughCutting.jpg
DSC01343.jpg This is one of Larry's beetle-kill Pine bowls, in process. That's it...

[Ron Borowicz]

Thank you, I will have to give this a try.

[robert baccus]

All good advice here-a few more options--mix your 5 min. epoxy with your "rocks" into a thick paste and apply like a putty leaning it proud- then power sand down to level and reapply epoxy to fill in my voids. Consider using junk, real stone for a superior look-easy to find on the web. Avoid CA where possible as it sands/cuts much harder and can leave high spots when leveling. Use heavy tapes for a form to pour difficult shapes. A contrasting rock mixed with say, black dyed epoxy and sanded level can be very pretty. Turquois with black epoxy for instance is nice. Throw the rules away if possible. Also a cheap blender or coffee grinder is great to bust up lumps of rocks--just use sifters to sort out the sizes you need, or a mix of sizes. Old Forester