Drywall removal question

[Ron Citerone]

I have an enclosed porch at my bay cottage that has drywall nailed onto studs that must come down for renovation. Any tips on drywall removal that minimizes mess would be appreciated. The floor is in good shape so I need to protect that. Thanks, ron

[Tom M King]

When tearing out walls in old houses, we put down a layer of plastic, and tape the seams. Over that goes a layer of hardboard (Masonite). After all the mess is down, and largely taken out, the hardboard is vacuumed,taken outside and blown off with compressed air, and swept. The plastic then is rolled back in on itself, until all the leftover dust is inside the ball. We have worked in some houses for two years with this on the floor, and when the plastic was taken up, the floor was as clean as when we first put the plastic down.

[Ron Citerone]

Thanks Tom. I have masonite on hand so that will work well. I appreciate the tips.

Ron

[Bill Orbine]

I've done well with Ram Board. It's a roll of cardboard material. I can get it at the local yard or the Borg. Tape the perimeter and seams. Optional: Plastic or rosin paper underneath.

[Ron Citerone]

Thanks Bill.

I was thinking razor knife and wonder bar to remove the drywall..........anything other ideas I may be missing here?

[Jim Becker]

"Drywall removal" and "minimize mess" really cannot be said in the same sentence...that's just not possible! So...put out the plastic/tarps/whatever, block the doorways to the rest of the living space, wear a dust mask and safety glasses and have some "fun".

[Jim Barkelew]

Don't do what they do on TV, grab a sledge and start swinging. I try to pull off drywall gently so the nails pull thru and get large pieces. I can usually get half a sheet or more off in one piece with minimal mess.

[Harold Balzonia]

Having done this to a number of houses here’s some hints which might be obvious:
1. Get the biggest pieces you can
2. As soon as you take off a hunk get it outside - through a window or sliding door. Don’t let it pile up in the room.
3. If you break out a sawzall, I’ve been known to put a big mouth scoop attached to the vacuum hose which is laid on the floor under the cuts.
4. If there is a kid around, and you can stand the noise, let them drag your shop vac around sucking up dust. Give ‘em a mask to make them feel extra important!
5. Know where the electrical is before you break out the sawzall....
6. Masonite on the floor is the bees knees if you can swing it.

[Phillip Mitchell]

I don't normally tear out entire rooms of drywall, but for more surgical removal I prefer a good oscillating multi tool with one of the half moon style round blades. Tape/rig up a dust extractor with the hose positioned just below the blade so that it rides with you as you make the dust and cut out a 1 ft or so tall section about midway up the height of the wall as far around the room as the removal is happening. With that section removed you can probably pry / beat from behind to remove the rest pretty quickly.

This minimizes blunt force trauma and oopsies inside the wall (electrical, plumbing, etc) from the typical sawzall madness and keeps the dust down a bit.

It's a thankless nasty job, but sometimes it needs to be done....good luck

[Jim Andrew]

Pray the drywall is not glued to the studs. I have used a rubber hammer on the back side. Really easy if there is no glue. Otherwise, you need a wood chisel to remove the glue, after you get the drywall off.

[Martin Siebert]

Pray the drywall is not glued to the studs. I have used a rubber hammer on the back side. Really easy if there is no glue. Otherwise, you need a wood chisel to remove the glue, after you get the drywall off.

Yes sir, and I never had much luck at praying...seems everyone uses construction adhesive to hang drywall. The fastest way I have found to remove the glue is compressed air and a angle die grinder with a 2" 36 grit disc. It is not the cleanest most "dust free" way, but it is the fastest. I know some "hangers" that don't bother...they slop on more glue and hang it.
There is something to be said though for using glue...they told me when I built my house 20 years ago that it was supposed to keep the nails from popping. They hung the drywall with 4 screws and then the rest of the sheet was nailed with black drywall nails. 20 years later there is not a nail pop in this house. Now, having 2X6 exterior walls helps too.

[Ron Citerone]

Thanks Everyone! Picked up some tips that will help a lot. The drywall was used as a backer for paneling so it is not taped. Not sure if it's glued to the studs though. I have masonite from another job, will need to get a roll of plastic. Luckily it is a small room. 7' X 12'.

Thanks again.

[Ole Anderson]

Punch a small hole with a hammer, to give a first hand hold, and start pulling. Sawing creates dust and cuts wire. Any way it is a messy job.

[Stephen Tashiro]

The drywall was used as a backer for paneling so it is not taped.

You didn't say why the drywall must come down. If the only reason you are taking it down is because the surface is damaged from removing the paneling, consider plastering over the old drywall or skim coating it instead of putting up new drywall.

[Ron Citerone]

Thanks Ole, I am glad you and others mentioned wires.

Stephen thanks for asking about leaving it up and plastering, but it is covered with paneling adhesive and was not put up in a way that lends itself to coating since it was just put up to back cheap paneling. Lots of odds and ends pieces etc. Also my plan at this point is to replace it either with ship lap or tongue and groove pine. More questions than answers right now.